ᐅ Underfloor heating with an air-to-water heat pump. House gets too warm when the sun is shining.
Created on: 4 Dec 2019 14:18
C
chewbacca123
Hello everyone,
I have a general question.
We moved into our new build four months ago. The living area on the ground floor has three large floor-to-ceiling windows facing south. We have underfloor heating and an air-to-water heat pump.
It provides a really comfortable temperature inside the house, but we have a problem – whenever the sun is shining in winter, even if it’s -2°C (28°F) outside, the temperature suddenly rises to 24°C (75°F) in the living room. It gets uncomfortably warm in here, and the underfloor heating can’t be turned down quickly.
Should we assume that the large floor-to-ceiling windows are responsible for the heat gain? A photo of the south-facing side of the house is attached.
What would you do – always lower all the blinds as soon as sunlight is forecast? That seems quite annoying...
We have motorized blinds controlled by Somfy. Would you consider buying a sensor that automatically lowers the blinds at a certain temperature?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
I have a general question.
We moved into our new build four months ago. The living area on the ground floor has three large floor-to-ceiling windows facing south. We have underfloor heating and an air-to-water heat pump.
It provides a really comfortable temperature inside the house, but we have a problem – whenever the sun is shining in winter, even if it’s -2°C (28°F) outside, the temperature suddenly rises to 24°C (75°F) in the living room. It gets uncomfortably warm in here, and the underfloor heating can’t be turned down quickly.
Should we assume that the large floor-to-ceiling windows are responsible for the heat gain? A photo of the south-facing side of the house is attached.
What would you do – always lower all the blinds as soon as sunlight is forecast? That seems quite annoying...
We have motorized blinds controlled by Somfy. Would you consider buying a sensor that automatically lowers the blinds at a certain temperature?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
D
Daniel-Sp11 Dec 2019 22:18That can be done. However, installed actuators that are normally open will, when without power, behave the same as removed normally closed actuators. Why do you want to invest money in actuators if you plan not to use them? The heating circuit valves also work without actuators!
My suggestion: remove and sell them, and carry out a proper hydraulic/thermal balancing.
My suggestion: remove and sell them, and carry out a proper hydraulic/thermal balancing.
The background is that I want the system to visually appear and look as if it is in its original state at first glance. If I call customer service for any other fault in the system while the ERR is disabled and the actuators are loosely lying in the distribution box, they will not focus on my intervention in the system or look for a possible cause of the fault there.
D
Daniel-Sp11 Dec 2019 22:38Then you don’t sell the actuators and install them temporarily during a customer service visit. They only come upon request and never unannounced.
chewbacca12313 Dec 2019 14:18Daniel-Sp schrieb:
Hi Daniel, I can’t visualize it, I don’t know how to handle this. Since our installer was here, things have been strange – the heating curve is set like this:
34 - 21 - 0
and domestic hot water at 46.5°C (115.7°F). In our bathroom, it only heats up to about 20.5°C (69°F), even though the ERR is set to level 5, which should be 25°C (77°F). In the guest room, which isn’t used, I had it set to around 18°C (64°F), but now it’s warm at 21°C (70°F). I’m completely confused. I think I’ll have a Novelan technician come out.
What is definitely better now is that the heat pump runs longer, not just for a few minutes anymore.
Still, I’m very unhappy with the result – the technician didn’t really need to come.
I’m hesitant to close the final acceptance test because if something goes wrong later, there could be warranty issues. Is it possible to have problems with that?
chewbacca123 schrieb:
In our bathroom, the temperature only reaches 20.5°C (69°F), even though the room thermostat radiator valve (TRV) is set to level 5, which corresponds to 25°C (77°F). And in the guest room, which is not in use, I had set about 18°C (64°F), but now it is warm at 21°C (70°F).A hydraulic balancing is required, or it is messed up, or fundamentally wrong.