ᐅ Underfloor heating with an air-to-water heat pump. House gets too warm when the sun is shining.
Created on: 4 Dec 2019 14:18
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chewbacca123
Hello everyone,
I have a general question.
We moved into our new build four months ago. The living area on the ground floor has three large floor-to-ceiling windows facing south. We have underfloor heating and an air-to-water heat pump.
It provides a really comfortable temperature inside the house, but we have a problem – whenever the sun is shining in winter, even if it’s -2°C (28°F) outside, the temperature suddenly rises to 24°C (75°F) in the living room. It gets uncomfortably warm in here, and the underfloor heating can’t be turned down quickly.
Should we assume that the large floor-to-ceiling windows are responsible for the heat gain? A photo of the south-facing side of the house is attached.
What would you do – always lower all the blinds as soon as sunlight is forecast? That seems quite annoying...
We have motorized blinds controlled by Somfy. Would you consider buying a sensor that automatically lowers the blinds at a certain temperature?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
I have a general question.
We moved into our new build four months ago. The living area on the ground floor has three large floor-to-ceiling windows facing south. We have underfloor heating and an air-to-water heat pump.
It provides a really comfortable temperature inside the house, but we have a problem – whenever the sun is shining in winter, even if it’s -2°C (28°F) outside, the temperature suddenly rises to 24°C (75°F) in the living room. It gets uncomfortably warm in here, and the underfloor heating can’t be turned down quickly.
Should we assume that the large floor-to-ceiling windows are responsible for the heat gain? A photo of the south-facing side of the house is attached.
What would you do – always lower all the blinds as soon as sunlight is forecast? That seems quite annoying...
We have motorized blinds controlled by Somfy. Would you consider buying a sensor that automatically lowers the blinds at a certain temperature?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
chewbacca12311 Dec 2019 11:49Hi Daniel,
is it sufficient to have an analysis to meaningfully visualize the data in a graph, or should certain time periods be considered?
Best regards, Ina
is it sufficient to have an analysis to meaningfully visualize the data in a graph, or should certain time periods be considered?
Best regards, Ina
D
Daniel-Sp11 Dec 2019 12:48The opendta program automatically visualizes the last 48 hours. You can zoom in on sections and deselect or add any parameters.
The best option is to upload a screenshot here.
The best option is to upload a screenshot here.
I’m reading along with interest and have a quick question for the heating experts: If all the radiator valves are fully opened and all the thermostatic radiator valves are set to maximum flow—that is, fully open—can you then actually leave the bypass valve open? In principle, it shouldn’t need to be used in that case, right?
D
Daniel-Sp11 Dec 2019 22:03If your system provides enough flow rate for the heat pump and no one can simply close the ERR heating circuits (remove the actuators and turn them off — this also saves some energy), then why take the risk of a thermal short circuit???
As a layperson, I'm not sure, but I believe fully closing it is not recommended either. At the highest setting, it only opens at such a high differential pressure that it is effectively closed.
The bypass valve is only needed if heating circuits are frequently shut off, causing the total flow rate to drop. In that case, it protects the system from excessive pressure. However, this comes at the cost of efficiency, because the heat pump continues to produce heat that does not reach the screed. The result is a rapid temperature increase in the return line and frequent switching (short cycling) of the heat pump.
As a layperson, I'm not sure, but I believe fully closing it is not recommended either. At the highest setting, it only opens at such a high differential pressure that it is effectively closed.
The bypass valve is only needed if heating circuits are frequently shut off, causing the total flow rate to drop. In that case, it protects the system from excessive pressure. However, this comes at the cost of efficiency, because the heat pump continues to produce heat that does not reach the screed. The result is a rapid temperature increase in the return line and frequent switching (short cycling) of the heat pump.
D
Daniel-Sp11 Dec 2019 22:09In addition, the bypass valve is set to open much too early for "safety reasons" (assumed use of the ERR), which often results in a partial flow through the bypass valve even with an unrestricted underfloor heating system. It is therefore better to check the total volume flow and close the bypass valve.
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