Hello,
We would like to skip a towel radiator in our small bathroom for the children (about 4 square meters (43 square feet)). Our architect suggested laying the underfloor heating pipes closer together instead. We have a gas heating system and a ventilation system. The plumber said that the room might not get warm enough without a towel radiator and recommended installing one. A temperature of 22 degrees Celsius (72°F) would be sufficient for us. Does anyone have a small bathroom with a shower and can share their experience regarding this?
Best regards,
Sabine
We would like to skip a towel radiator in our small bathroom for the children (about 4 square meters (43 square feet)). Our architect suggested laying the underfloor heating pipes closer together instead. We have a gas heating system and a ventilation system. The plumber said that the room might not get warm enough without a towel radiator and recommended installing one. A temperature of 22 degrees Celsius (72°F) would be sufficient for us. Does anyone have a small bathroom with a shower and can share their experience regarding this?
Best regards,
Sabine
The whole idea is based on the assumption that the bathroom needs to be (significantly) warmer than the rest of the house. I also think that’s nonsense.
Besides, we don’t even have a heated towel rail right now, just a simple bar on the wall, and the towels dry perfectly fine on it. So I don’t understand the objections to a heated towel rail that isn’t connected to a separate, hotter heating circuit being ineffective. If you want such a radiator, then buy it, but please stop with the fuss about those electric devices. They are unnecessary, as if you have to roast towels to get them dry.
Besides, we don’t even have a heated towel rail right now, just a simple bar on the wall, and the towels dry perfectly fine on it. So I don’t understand the objections to a heated towel rail that isn’t connected to a separate, hotter heating circuit being ineffective. If you want such a radiator, then buy it, but please stop with the fuss about those electric devices. They are unnecessary, as if you have to roast towels to get them dry.
B
Bieber081525 Apr 2017 21:50Curly schrieb:
The plumber said that a room this small wouldn’t get warm enough and that we should better install a towel radiator. Can’t he calculate what is actually needed???????
BOB der 1.26 Apr 2017 05:47It’s possible to calculate—why not. The basis would be the room volume or floor area and the required energy... so again, old building, new building, etc.
As far as I know, about 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) corresponds to roughly 100 watts plus 10% as a rough estimate. However, there are very delicate radiators that are more like designer heaters and can fit into any room.
I would just trust my gut and simply install an electrical outlet at the appropriate spot... and wait.
Regarding the question about the possibility of wall heating on a drywall partition... it’s possible but not recommended.
I have seen something like that, and the setup is crazy. With a drywall partition, you have to work with mesh and a double layer of substrate; mesh literally means a reinforcement mesh, and the double substrate would be a rather thick wall construction. So this is more something for new builds, where in that case you would rather switch to aerated concrete blocks (Ytong).
As far as I know, about 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) corresponds to roughly 100 watts plus 10% as a rough estimate. However, there are very delicate radiators that are more like designer heaters and can fit into any room.
I would just trust my gut and simply install an electrical outlet at the appropriate spot... and wait.
Regarding the question about the possibility of wall heating on a drywall partition... it’s possible but not recommended.
I have seen something like that, and the setup is crazy. With a drywall partition, you have to work with mesh and a double layer of substrate; mesh literally means a reinforcement mesh, and the double substrate would be a rather thick wall construction. So this is more something for new builds, where in that case you would rather switch to aerated concrete blocks (Ytong).
100 watts per square meter (10.7 watts per square foot) used to be common in the past. However, this is outdated and nowadays the exact requirement is calculated based on the type of windows, wall construction, and desired indoor temperature. Wall heating is also possible in drywall construction, but preferably only with external insulation if the exterior wall is involved. There is also the option of ceiling heating. Additionally, if a walk-in shower is planned that is separated by a wall, heating can be installed on that wall as well. Radiators are generally not necessary, especially not within the area covered by underfloor heating. It is also not worthwhile to install a separate heating circuit for this.
BOB der 1.26 Apr 2017 07:44Well... the issue with the flow temperature of the underfloor heating is definitely correct; it is probably too low.
The formula given is rough... very rough.
However, there are other options as well...
An electric wall heating system similar to underfloor heating!
Basically, all possibilities are open.
In the worst case, ask the architect—they calculate this and in some cases are responsible for construction errors.
I’m sure I’ll get some criticism now... but I have good experience with professionals... even if the expert says this or that must be done... my architect was always right.
The formula given is rough... very rough.
However, there are other options as well...
An electric wall heating system similar to underfloor heating!
Basically, all possibilities are open.
In the worst case, ask the architect—they calculate this and in some cases are responsible for construction errors.
I’m sure I’ll get some criticism now... but I have good experience with professionals... even if the expert says this or that must be done... my architect was always right.
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