ᐅ To the Roofers – Counter Battens for Roof Tiles on a Garden Shed

Hello,

we want to cover our garden shed roof using leftover roof tiles.
What is the best way to install the battens underneath?

I have already contacted roofers, but none are willing to work on a garden shed.
I’m a bit uncertain about how to properly fix the battens and counter battens to ensure the roof can be covered correctly later on.

Details:
- Roof pitch 19 degrees
- Tiles approved up to 16 degrees
- Tiles Brass Rubin 13V
- Underlay membrane is installed
- Distance from eaves to ridge is 181cm (71 inches)
- Distance from gable to gable is 238cm (94 inches)

I have attached images with the tile specifications.
I know experts might say, “it’s all on the website,” but I can’t really follow it.
The edges at the eaves and gables should fit the tiles as precisely as possible.
The tile overhang should be kept as small as possible, but of course without cutting.

We have enough regular roof tiles. However, I still need verge tiles and ridge tiles for the start and end.
We don’t have ridge connection tiles, and I want to do without them.
What is the best way to install the ridge tiles then? Do I need a ridge batten or are there other options?
Do I need a ridge roll for ventilation?

I’m not a roofer, but as some information from mine regarding the idea of covering the bikeport with roof tiles (I still have plenty left): The roof structure is usually not designed for the corresponding load! Roof tiles are heavy. Plus gutters, downpipes, etc. Conclusion: It’s not worth it, so something else will go on top now (my current favorite: metal sheet).

But the same applies here: A picture of the garden shed might lead to better answers since there are small garden huts and garden villas 😉

Basically, it’s quite simple.
You know where you want the top and bottom to end, so using the dimensions of the tiles and the overlap hooks, you can determine the measurements for the top and bottom batten. You then calculate the remaining measurement to ensure you achieve the minimum overlap and distribute it evenly.
For the width, it’s similar, but you can’t adjust the overlap here. So you have to calculate exactly (considering full and half tiles plus the verge) what measurement you end up with. This measurement will give you your roof width (238cm (94 inches) plus the overhang, which is the remainder of your roof width calculation).
I hope this makes sense.

Hello tx25, how did you manage it in the end?

Hello, in the end, we decided against it entirely. The main reason was that we were still missing some ridge and verge tiles. We couldn't get hold of them. The manufacturer wanted to charge us over 700 € in delivery fees and so on. In the end, that was too expensive for us. So, we covered the roof with leftover roofing underlayment and then installed interlocking shingles on top.

I'm currently at this stage myself.

At the building materials supplier, I would have to pay €1,040 for trapezoidal metal sheets including accessories from a German manufacturer.

From a seller on eBay Classifieds, I would pay €410 for trapezoidal metal sheets made in Poland/Romania including accessories.

And from the same building materials supplier mentioned above, for glazed roof tiles including all barge tiles, ridge tiles, and clips, the price is €980.

I think tiles look very elegant, but the weight of about 1,000kg (2,205 lbs) worries me.