D
derstefanm25 Feb 2015 07:12I have a rather specific question.
Before the house’s exterior brickwork is installed, the foundation and the lower part of the wall need to be waterproofed. Does anyone have experience with which method is better: thick coating applied with a trowel and brush, or the proven technique of torch-welding bituminous membrane sheets?
Before the house’s exterior brickwork is installed, the foundation and the lower part of the wall need to be waterproofed. Does anyone have experience with which method is better: thick coating applied with a trowel and brush, or the proven technique of torch-welding bituminous membrane sheets?
Both are not permitted beneath the outer cladding (brick veneer), as this promotes creeping of the wall panel. I assume the sealing is intended to extend over the edge of the base slab, since the brick veneer rests there.
There are special cement-based sealing slurries or plastic-based sealants (e.g., EPDM).
Regards
There are special cement-based sealing slurries or plastic-based sealants (e.g., EPDM).
Regards
D
derstefanm25 Feb 2015 09:06I don’t quite understand. What do you mean by the wall shell creeping? So far, I have only heard of the two options regarding the waterproof slurry, but nothing else except when applying the slurry to the masonry—we sealed the first row from the bottom with slurry. Is this a fairly new method?
Creeping refers to the gradual movement of the entire outer layer over the sliding bearing formed by the bitumen membrane.
I am aware that this type of waterproofing is commonly used, but that does not make it correct.
I would choose a waterproofing system from a reputable manufacturer that is specifically designed for your purpose and where the individual components are coordinated with each other.
Bituminous thick coatings and torch-on membranes are designed for vertical waterproofing of basement walls.
Try searching for waterproofing systems for cavity walls, and you will find various solutions, for example, one from Delta. (@Bauexperte and ypg, please delete this if it is off-topic here, thanks)
Regards
I am aware that this type of waterproofing is commonly used, but that does not make it correct.
I would choose a waterproofing system from a reputable manufacturer that is specifically designed for your purpose and where the individual components are coordinated with each other.
Bituminous thick coatings and torch-on membranes are designed for vertical waterproofing of basement walls.
Try searching for waterproofing systems for cavity walls, and you will find various solutions, for example, one from Delta. (@Bauexperte and ypg, please delete this if it is off-topic here, thanks)
Regards
D
derstefanm25 Feb 2015 13:49I have reviewed the manufacturer’s product range but I don’t fully understand your description. Let me explain how I currently understand the wall structure. The masonry is sealed on the foundation slab first with a waterproof slurry and then in a second layer with a damp-proof membrane to protect against moisture from the ground or pipe leaks in the screed. For brickwork, the bottom layer of insulation is made of Styrodur. Beforehand, the floor and wall junction—the lower corner—is either coated with a thick bituminous layer or covered with a bitumen sheet, and then the masonry is built on top. Above the Styrodur, there is a so-called Z foil that is attached to the wall and embedded into the brickwork. Is this the foil you meant? Because I was actually referring to the lower sealing that is supposed to keep moisture out of the ground.
I am not familiar with your foundation detail, but since each one is different, every case must be planned individually.
What I can generally say is that, as a rule, masonry should not be built directly on bitumen waterproofing membranes or thick bitumen coatings.
What I can generally say is that, as a rule, masonry should not be built directly on bitumen waterproofing membranes or thick bitumen coatings.
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