ᐅ Thermal Curtains – Do They Really Work? – Who Has Experience?
Created on: 13 Apr 2018 09:24
A
Andreas48
My house (built with ecological timber frame construction) is designed to be quite open, with as few doors as possible. The basement is intended as a living area and can be heated. The problem with this open design is (unsurprisingly): when the basement is comfortably warm, the upper floor becomes uncomfortably hot (well, heat rises).
Since I don’t want to install doors afterward, I’m considering using thermal curtains. Specifically, a thermal curtain at the basement stairway to prevent heat from rising into the ground floor, and another thermal curtain at the ground floor stairway to stop heat from moving up to the upper floor.
Has anyone here had experience with thermal curtains? Which ones would you recommend?
Since I don’t want to install doors afterward, I’m considering using thermal curtains. Specifically, a thermal curtain at the basement stairway to prevent heat from rising into the ground floor, and another thermal curtain at the ground floor stairway to stop heat from moving up to the upper floor.
Has anyone here had experience with thermal curtains? Which ones would you recommend?
Mycraft schrieb:
But that is not because heat rises, as you suggest.Has anyone actually written more details about this yet?
-> Maybe Mycraft was referring to the hydraulic balancing. Our plumbing company also made adjustments because some rooms heated up significantly more than others.
My post referred to this statement:
This is simply because the physical processes regarding heat distribution, heat demand, etc., are completely different in the basement and the upper floor.
Therefore, the temperature difference is not (only) or mainly due to heat rising upwards.
You also have to consider whether the original poster is referring to summer or winter, as the processes inside the house vary depending on the season.
In my house, the upper floor is generally 1-2 degrees colder than the ground floor in winter, which contradicts the poster’s statement directly.
This is not a myth but simple physics. However, some basic conditions must be met, such as at least a KfW-70 standard, underfloor heating throughout the house, and a fairly open building layout.
Under these circumstances, the chances of significant temperature differences are relatively low. If you also have a mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery and an optimally adjusted heating system (hydraulic balancing, low flow temperatures), you can safely forget about it.
Andreas48 schrieb:
That is exactly the problem. In the basementarea it is 19 degrees and in the upper floorarea 25 degrees.
This is simply because the physical processes regarding heat distribution, heat demand, etc., are completely different in the basement and the upper floor.
Therefore, the temperature difference is not (only) or mainly due to heat rising upwards.
You also have to consider whether the original poster is referring to summer or winter, as the processes inside the house vary depending on the season.
In my house, the upper floor is generally 1-2 degrees colder than the ground floor in winter, which contradicts the poster’s statement directly.
ypg schrieb:
Similar in our case. Who actually started the myth that you cannot have different temperatures in different rooms? The people trying to save on ERR???
This is not a myth but simple physics. However, some basic conditions must be met, such as at least a KfW-70 standard, underfloor heating throughout the house, and a fairly open building layout.
Under these circumstances, the chances of significant temperature differences are relatively low. If you also have a mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery and an optimally adjusted heating system (hydraulic balancing, low flow temperatures), you can safely forget about it.
K
Knallkörper15 Apr 2018 12:41The optimally adjusted heating system has little to do with this. When using an ERR, it clicks above the set temperature and the circulation loop is closed. Hydraulic balancing and well-adjusted heating curves are great but do not matter in this scenario.
In my house, the heating in the upper rooms (27 + 27 + 18 square meters (290 + 290 + 194 square feet)) was turned off throughout the entire winter. On the ground floor, the temperature was maintained at 23 degrees Celsius (73°F). In the upper rooms, the temperature reached 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) as long as the room doors were not closed. Therefore, I believe that the physically caused "layering" of the air plays a bigger role than a slightly higher heat loss on the upper floor.
In my house, the heating in the upper rooms (27 + 27 + 18 square meters (290 + 290 + 194 square feet)) was turned off throughout the entire winter. On the ground floor, the temperature was maintained at 23 degrees Celsius (73°F). In the upper rooms, the temperature reached 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) as long as the room doors were not closed. Therefore, I believe that the physically caused "layering" of the air plays a bigger role than a slightly higher heat loss on the upper floor.
Knallkörper schrieb:
An optimally adjusted heating system has little to do with this. When using an ERR, it "clicks" above the set temperature and the circuit is closed.So you are not aware that after the click, the rooms continue to be heated for hours?
Knallkörper schrieb:
Hydraulic balancing and well-adjusted heating curves are great, but they do not play a role in this scenario. It is a combination of factors, not just one. Therefore, these elements definitely do play a role.
Knallkörper schrieb:
In my house, the heating in the upper rooms (27 + 27 + 18 m² (290 + 290 + 190 sq ft)) was turned off throughout the entire winter.How was this determined and monitored?
Mycraft schrieb:
My post referred to this statement:
This is simply because the physical processes regarding heat distribution, heating demand, etc., are completely different in the basement and the upper floor.
Therefore, the temperature difference is not (only), or mainly due to heat rising upwards.
You also have to consider whether the original poster means summer or winter, since the processes in the house differ depending on the season.
In my house, the upper floor is generally 1-2 degrees cooler in winter than the ground floor, which would directly contradict, for example, the original poster’s statement.
This is not a myth but simple physics. However, several key parameters need to be met. For example, at least a KfW-70 standard, underfloor heating throughout the house, and a reasonably open design.
...I confirm these key parameters with a very open design, etc.
Of course, I don’t achieve small differences within an hour, but certainly, when a period of fluctuating temperature begins, I adjust the bathroom, office, and bedroom heating exactly as I want.
We just need to remember to keep the doors half-closed or slightly ajar.
No professional or tech expert can tell me otherwise—if it doesn’t work in theory but does in practice.
To the original poster: I just remembered—you have windows upstairs, which causes the rooms to warm up more and faster compared to the basement.
K
Knallkörper15 Apr 2018 20:31Mycraft schrieb:
So you’re not aware that the rooms continue to be heated for hours after the click?Please try not to deliberately misunderstand my posts. When I say "the circuit is closed," I am well aware that the screed still releases residual heat for a long time.
My point is that with the ERR, I am able to "turn off" a room for an extended period. At that point, the heating curve and balancing no longer matter.
And when I say I have my heating turned off in three rooms over the winter, you can take my word for it. My ERR, like most, has a corresponding on/off switch.
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