ᐅ Window sash warped from floor to ceiling, door rubbing against the floor
Created on: 4 Jun 2018 12:46
D
dertill
Almost all of our new PVC windows have been installed without issues, properly aligned and adjusted. Only one patio double door (without a mullion, i.e., a flush door) is causing a problem:
During the installation of the dry screed floor, the planner (myself) measured and calculated somewhat narrowly, resulting in a gap of only 1 cm (0.4 inches) between the bottom edge of the door leaf and the parquet floor. This is not critical in itself; the floor is perfectly level without any unevenness, and the clearance at the door hinges is also correct.
However, the door leaves are not perfectly rectangular but taper into a parallelogram shape towards the end, causing the tips to scrape against the parquet. This occurs on both leaves equally. So the door is not hung crookedly in the frame; rather, the horizontal profiles are not exactly perpendicular to the vertical ones. This can be confirmed with a spirit level, by observing the floor line, and by closely examining the edge of the glass within the frame. There is about 1 cm (0.4 inches) of offset across a 70 cm (28-inch) leaf width.
The window installer was initially punctual and professional but has recently become hard to reach (even though a final payment is still pending). The seals, which were mistakenly delivered in black instead of gray, are still to be replaced; all materials are on site.
This is the only door leaf in the entire house with this issue; I have checked all others again.
Is this something that can be fixed by removing the trims and the glass, then loosening and tightening some screws or similar adjustments? Or do both leaves need to be replaced? The door closes properly but cannot be adjusted higher because the warped leaves are fully using up the clearance in the frame.
To be clear, I do not intend to carry out repairs myself but want to understand the extent of the work required and whether the manufacturer or the local installer should handle it.
During the installation of the dry screed floor, the planner (myself) measured and calculated somewhat narrowly, resulting in a gap of only 1 cm (0.4 inches) between the bottom edge of the door leaf and the parquet floor. This is not critical in itself; the floor is perfectly level without any unevenness, and the clearance at the door hinges is also correct.
However, the door leaves are not perfectly rectangular but taper into a parallelogram shape towards the end, causing the tips to scrape against the parquet. This occurs on both leaves equally. So the door is not hung crookedly in the frame; rather, the horizontal profiles are not exactly perpendicular to the vertical ones. This can be confirmed with a spirit level, by observing the floor line, and by closely examining the edge of the glass within the frame. There is about 1 cm (0.4 inches) of offset across a 70 cm (28-inch) leaf width.
The window installer was initially punctual and professional but has recently become hard to reach (even though a final payment is still pending). The seals, which were mistakenly delivered in black instead of gray, are still to be replaced; all materials are on site.
This is the only door leaf in the entire house with this issue; I have checked all others again.
Is this something that can be fixed by removing the trims and the glass, then loosening and tightening some screws or similar adjustments? Or do both leaves need to be replaced? The door closes properly but cannot be adjusted higher because the warped leaves are fully using up the clearance in the frame.
To be clear, I do not intend to carry out repairs myself but want to understand the extent of the work required and whether the manufacturer or the local installer should handle it.
Nordlys schrieb:
Bonded with MS polymer. You could hang a car on the joint.... then replacing it is probably cheaper and safer.What I found online suggests something different. According to that, plastic frames without glass panes are quite unstable, not very rigid, and only become stabilized by the glass insert. If this is not properly supported with glazing blocks, the sash can sag at the end, which seems to be what has (hopefully) happened in our case. I’m not allowed to post links here, so just a diagram: