ᐅ Shutter box not flush with the wall – possible design error? Any suggestions?
Created on: 22 Aug 2021 23:33
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pagoni2020
Our windows are now "almost installed," but unfortunately there are several deficiencies, which means replacement windows need to be delivered 😡. Unfortunately, issues like these are now affecting multiple trades, which is very exhausting and sometimes even discouraging. The quality of the general contractor (GC) does not live up to the initial praise.
Problem / Question:
Most of our windows have roller shutters with boxes installed inside the window reveal. The issue is that the shutter boxes are not deep enough and recess about 20cm (8 inches) from the interior wall. The plasterer is now supposed to plaster over this.
The plasterer suggests that this should be built up by 20cm (8 inches) so that the roller shutter box is flush with the interior masonry. Honestly, I have never seen it done differently and either didn’t notice before or was not informed about it.
Now we are faced with the decision of whether to have the lintels in the window reveals built up by 20cm (8 inches) with XPS insulation or similar materials for around €1500, or to simply have the recessed shutter boxes plastered as is, at no additional cost.
I have searched for pictures but found none; I believe this is rather unusual. The construction contract does not specify anything about this in detail. In my opinion, this is not correct or the roller shutter boxes should have been ordered with more depth so they would be flush with the interior wall ready for plastering... or am I wrong?
The GC claims this is often done this way...
Does anyone have ideas for a different (more cost-effective) solution or experience with this? It is hard for me to imagine the finished result having an additional 20cm (8 inches) of plastered surface inside above the window.
Unfortunately, I don’t have another photo right now; this one was taken at an angle from below and shows the lintel from underneath; the white area is the roller shutter box (to be plastered) and the brown parts are the window frames.
I hope I explained everything clearly, otherwise please ask.
Problem / Question:
Most of our windows have roller shutters with boxes installed inside the window reveal. The issue is that the shutter boxes are not deep enough and recess about 20cm (8 inches) from the interior wall. The plasterer is now supposed to plaster over this.
The plasterer suggests that this should be built up by 20cm (8 inches) so that the roller shutter box is flush with the interior masonry. Honestly, I have never seen it done differently and either didn’t notice before or was not informed about it.
Now we are faced with the decision of whether to have the lintels in the window reveals built up by 20cm (8 inches) with XPS insulation or similar materials for around €1500, or to simply have the recessed shutter boxes plastered as is, at no additional cost.
I have searched for pictures but found none; I believe this is rather unusual. The construction contract does not specify anything about this in detail. In my opinion, this is not correct or the roller shutter boxes should have been ordered with more depth so they would be flush with the interior wall ready for plastering... or am I wrong?
The GC claims this is often done this way...
Does anyone have ideas for a different (more cost-effective) solution or experience with this? It is hard for me to imagine the finished result having an additional 20cm (8 inches) of plastered surface inside above the window.
Unfortunately, I don’t have another photo right now; this one was taken at an angle from below and shows the lintel from underneath; the white area is the roller shutter box (to be plastered) and the brown parts are the window frames.
I hope I explained everything clearly, otherwise please ask.
Hmm, yes, monolithic construction and the installation position being quite far to the outside. I doubt that such deep boxes were even available as an option. This should be known or clear to the general contractor, as long as it’s not their first time working with monolithic masonry.
The usual dilemma: one party didn’t point it out, the other didn’t ask.
Maybe another builder with experience in monolithic construction can share some insights.
Edit: Just checked, we have Konax boxes, which seem to be available up to 300mm (12 inches) deep. So it is possible after all... They also offer extensions within the system (additional base plaster boards).
The usual dilemma: one party didn’t point it out, the other didn’t ask.
Maybe another builder with experience in monolithic construction can share some insights.
Edit: Just checked, we have Konax boxes, which seem to be available up to 300mm (12 inches) deep. So it is possible after all... They also offer extensions within the system (additional base plaster boards).
H
HausTmMike23 Aug 2021 09:15Definitely double up. How many roller shutters do you have?
I also had to double up by 3cm (1.2 inches) :/
Do you have an XPS cutter? Otherwise, ask around locally; those tools usually cost around 100€.
With a can of spray foam and a few square meters of XPS, you might need about 30 minutes per window, and the material costs around 40€. I spent about 3 hours on 20 linear meters (65.6 feet) of windows.
Annoying work, but better than having a protrusion like that.
I also had to double up by 3cm (1.2 inches) :/
Do you have an XPS cutter? Otherwise, ask around locally; those tools usually cost around 100€.
With a can of spray foam and a few square meters of XPS, you might need about 30 minutes per window, and the material costs around 40€. I spent about 3 hours on 20 linear meters (65.6 feet) of windows.
Annoying work, but better than having a protrusion like that.
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pagoni202023 Aug 2021 09:23HausTmMike schrieb:
Definitely double up, how many roller shutters are there?
I had to add 3cm (1.2 inches) myself :/
Do you have an XPS cutter? Otherwise, ask around locally, those cost about 100€
With a can of expanding foam and a few square meters of XPS, it takes maybe 30 minutes per window and costs around 40€ in materials. I spent about 3 hours on 20 linear meters of windows.
Annoying work, but better than having a protrusion like that There are 8 of them, some up to 3m (10 feet) wide.
The plasterer wants to screw them in if he does it. Are you sure that bonding works with 20cm (8 inches) thickness and that width?
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HausTmMike23 Aug 2021 09:29pagoni2020 schrieb:
There are 8 pieces, some 3m (10 feet) wide.
The plasterer wants to screw them in if he does it. Are you sure that gluing works with a thickness of 20cm (8 inches) and that width? Is the panel made of plastic?
Gluing should work. But of course, one insulation fixing (also called a facade anchor) per 50cm (20 inches) would be safer. These can then be anchored in the lintel. However, if you prime the lintel and use a proper adhesive foam, nothing should go wrong.
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hampshire23 Aug 2021 09:33It’s really frustrating when such details don’t turn out as expected. In any case, you need a solution that will give you lasting peace with the situation.
Are you going to have curtains or drapes in front of the windows? If the recess is suitable, you could create a flush appearance visually with a curtain rod placed exactly within that recess. What was initially a flaw could become a feature. I can’t fully assess this from the pictures, but maybe it’s worth considering.
Are you going to have curtains or drapes in front of the windows? If the recess is suitable, you could create a flush appearance visually with a curtain rod placed exactly within that recess. What was initially a flaw could become a feature. I can’t fully assess this from the pictures, but maybe it’s worth considering.
If you use anchors, make sure to install them in the reveal, not in the frame. Just for the sake of completeness ;-)
I don't think the idea of doing it yourself is bad at all. The plaster finish will make it look nice anyway. You just need to create the approximate plane (or about 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches) less).
I don't think the idea of doing it yourself is bad at all. The plaster finish will make it look nice anyway. You just need to create the approximate plane (or about 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches) less).
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