ᐅ Switches or push buttons in new construction with Shelly – planning fully smart or sticking to traditional?
Created on: 22 Apr 2026 08:04
F
FloSCFan
Hello everyone,
We are currently in the process of building a new house and are working on the electrical planning with the electrician. Now we need to decide where to install traditional switches and where to use push buttons.
The plan is to equip some lighting circuits with Shelly modules before moving in. In those cases, push buttons would be easy to use since the Shelly acts as a relay or control unit.
However, I have two basic questions:
1. Push button or traditional switch for smart lighting circuits?
It is often recommended to use push buttons for smart home solutions (because of scenes, multiple clicks, long presses, etc.).
My concern is that if the Shelly module fails, the push button might stop working entirely or only work with limitations. This would require immediate attention. A traditional switch might still offer some basic functionality depending on its setup.
2. Should everything be switched to push buttons and smart control?
Does it make sense to equip all lighting circuits with Shelly modules and install push buttons everywhere to keep the system uniform?
Or is this unnecessary, more expensive, and potentially more error-prone than needed, with smart controls better reserved only for areas where they provide real added value?
I would be interested in your experiences:
* What would you do in a new build today?
* Push buttons or switches for smart circuits?
* Standardize everything or make only selected areas smart?
* How important is system reliability and failure safety in everyday life?
Thank you very much for your insights.
We are currently in the process of building a new house and are working on the electrical planning with the electrician. Now we need to decide where to install traditional switches and where to use push buttons.
The plan is to equip some lighting circuits with Shelly modules before moving in. In those cases, push buttons would be easy to use since the Shelly acts as a relay or control unit.
However, I have two basic questions:
1. Push button or traditional switch for smart lighting circuits?
It is often recommended to use push buttons for smart home solutions (because of scenes, multiple clicks, long presses, etc.).
My concern is that if the Shelly module fails, the push button might stop working entirely or only work with limitations. This would require immediate attention. A traditional switch might still offer some basic functionality depending on its setup.
2. Should everything be switched to push buttons and smart control?
Does it make sense to equip all lighting circuits with Shelly modules and install push buttons everywhere to keep the system uniform?
Or is this unnecessary, more expensive, and potentially more error-prone than needed, with smart controls better reserved only for areas where they provide real added value?
I would be interested in your experiences:
* What would you do in a new build today?
* Push buttons or switches for smart circuits?
* Standardize everything or make only selected areas smart?
* How important is system reliability and failure safety in everyday life?
Thank you very much for your insights.
M
MachsSelbst5 May 2026 21:32Bierwächter schrieb:
However, I still gave some thought to how I need to prepare a few special things. For example, we are installing LED strips recessed into tile profiles as shower lighting. These should work both with a Shelly AND via a switch. For this, I have to build a small sub-distribution myself and need an extra cable from the switch to this sub-distribution. Why? Any smart actuator can be operated with a push button or a switch as a signal source.
In push button mode, it recognizes the positive edge to change the switching state; in switch mode, it uses both the positive and negative edges to change the state.
Additionally, it can of course still respond to presence detectors, timers, etc.
You just have to accept that you cannot infer the actuator’s switching state from the switch position. But that is the same with push buttons—you can’t tell the switching state by the button position either.
The Shelly is installed directly before the load; nothing else is needed. That’s actually the key to this setup. With a crossover wiring (two-way switching), the push buttons or switches only need a 3x1.5mm² (about 1.5mm², 3-core cable), since they only generate signals for the Shelly. There is no need for cables running back and forth, nor for a small sub-distribution anywhere...
I have to admit, though, that I am only slowly implementing this in my new build from 2023. During the construction phase, I had neither the time, energy, nor budget to deal with it, and my electrician was from the really, really old school... he actually advised against installing sockets and switches, rather than making money by distributing them liberally throughout the rooms...
B
Bierwächter5 May 2026 21:55I wrote "switch" but meant "push button."
I have to admit, I don’t fully remember how I planned it because this was before the installation appointment in October, and since then it’s been a rollercoaster. My mind is somewhere else at the moment. 😀
There are 2 LED strips, each with its own cable going to the sub-distribution board. A power supply will be installed there because they need 24 V (24 V). The whole setup should be dimmable. I want to install a Shelly dimmer. Shelly devices should not be disconnected from power, so the push button only switches 24 V (24 V) directly to the dimmer. Yeah... this will be interesting.
I have to admit, I don’t fully remember how I planned it because this was before the installation appointment in October, and since then it’s been a rollercoaster. My mind is somewhere else at the moment. 😀
There are 2 LED strips, each with its own cable going to the sub-distribution board. A power supply will be installed there because they need 24 V (24 V). The whole setup should be dimmable. I want to install a Shelly dimmer. Shelly devices should not be disconnected from power, so the push button only switches 24 V (24 V) directly to the dimmer. Yeah... this will be interesting.
M
MachsSelbst5 May 2026 22:08For a dimmer, you obviously need push buttons. But no additional switch is necessary...
The PRO RGBWW PM can dim 24VDC; a "regular" 230VAC dimmer is not suitable for this...
You just need the Shelly device before the 24V actuator, which can be controlled by various sources. Switches, push buttons, sunrise, sunset, timers, occupancy sensors, whatever 😉
The PRO RGBWW PM can dim 24VDC; a "regular" 230VAC dimmer is not suitable for this...
You just need the Shelly device before the 24V actuator, which can be controlled by various sources. Switches, push buttons, sunrise, sunset, timers, occupancy sensors, whatever 😉
B
Bierwächter5 May 2026 22:22Exactly, the plan also includes a presence detector that recognizes the shower as a separate zone and controls it accordingly. 🙂 The switch is a backup.
M
MachsSelbst5 May 2026 23:00Absolutely reasonable. I would never design a system or automation without a manual override.
If a presence detector fails and for some reason you don’t get a replacement for two weeks, you might end up sitting in the dark for those two weeks or have to switch the light on with your smartphone instead of simply pressing a wall switch...
If a presence detector fails and for some reason you don’t get a replacement for two weeks, you might end up sitting in the dark for those two weeks or have to switch the light on with your smartphone instead of simply pressing a wall switch...