Hello! I’m new here, although I’ve read the forum quite a bit and gathered some tips. 🙂
I’m starting to plan a kitchen for our apartment, but I already have some questions that maybe—hopefully—you can help me with.
1) If I have an under-cabinet range hood installed inside the upper cabinet above the stove, won’t the cabinet body and especially the doors get dirty over time? From what I understand, they are unprotected above the stove, and the upper cabinet is only 40cm (16 inches) deep, so it sits directly over the cooktop.
2) If I have a tall cabinet (60cm / 24 inches) next to an upper cabinet (depth 40cm / 16 inches), do I need to install a spacer strip between them so that the upper cabinet doors can open properly? Or can I leave it as is, even if the doors won’t open more than 90°? (Would this also require different hinges?)
3) When the countertop ends at a tall cabinet, it usually overhangs a bit at the front... is that normal, or should the tall cabinet be set back so it’s flush with the countertop rather than with the base cabinets? Or is this just a matter of personal preference? 😳
Picture related to 2 and 3:
4) We have a freestanding dishwasher that probably can’t be integrated with a front panel. That’s not a big deal, BUT: we also can’t place it between two cabinets, so my idea is to simply attach a cover panel on the outside and fix it to the wall and countertop with brackets. Or would I need something sturdier for that? (The countertop is supposed to rest on the dishwasher, with the gap between the dishwasher top and countertop filled with wooden blocks and optionally covered at the front.)
Picture related to 4:
That’s it for now. Tomorrow I want to visit IKEA to look at fronts, countertops, etc., before I probably come up with a thousand more questions. But the kitchen probably won’t be realized before 2017 anyway.
I’m starting to plan a kitchen for our apartment, but I already have some questions that maybe—hopefully—you can help me with.
1) If I have an under-cabinet range hood installed inside the upper cabinet above the stove, won’t the cabinet body and especially the doors get dirty over time? From what I understand, they are unprotected above the stove, and the upper cabinet is only 40cm (16 inches) deep, so it sits directly over the cooktop.
2) If I have a tall cabinet (60cm / 24 inches) next to an upper cabinet (depth 40cm / 16 inches), do I need to install a spacer strip between them so that the upper cabinet doors can open properly? Or can I leave it as is, even if the doors won’t open more than 90°? (Would this also require different hinges?)
3) When the countertop ends at a tall cabinet, it usually overhangs a bit at the front... is that normal, or should the tall cabinet be set back so it’s flush with the countertop rather than with the base cabinets? Or is this just a matter of personal preference? 😳
Picture related to 2 and 3:
4) We have a freestanding dishwasher that probably can’t be integrated with a front panel. That’s not a big deal, BUT: we also can’t place it between two cabinets, so my idea is to simply attach a cover panel on the outside and fix it to the wall and countertop with brackets. Or would I need something sturdier for that? (The countertop is supposed to rest on the dishwasher, with the gap between the dishwasher top and countertop filled with wooden blocks and optionally covered at the front.)
Picture related to 4:
That’s it for now. Tomorrow I want to visit IKEA to look at fronts, countertops, etc., before I probably come up with a thousand more questions. But the kitchen probably won’t be realized before 2017 anyway.
S
Schmidti8220 Mar 2016 08:392. We want a sink cabinet 80cm (31.5 inches) wide with a pull-out trash bin at the bottom. For the lower pull-out (handle height 60cm (24 inches), with a 20cm (8 inches) panel above), can we use an 80x60cm (31.5x24 inches) door instead of the 40cm (16 inches) wide, 20cm (8 inches) deep drawers suggested by the planner? Or would that not work structurally and cause the door to break or something? There are no doors 80cm (31.5 inches) wide. Doors are only 60cm (24 inches) wide and 80cm (31.5 inches) high. I’m not sure if the pre-drilled holes will still line up if you rotate the door 90 degrees, or if you would have to drill new ones.
I
IKEA-Experte20 Mar 2016 11:351. Yes, that is possible. That is the special feature of METOD.
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robi_aus_ffm20 Mar 2016 13:17@schmidti82
That's right, there are no doors with an 80cm (31.5 inches) width and 60cm (23.6 inches) height. Since I only had 60cm (23.6 inches) wide doors, I didn’t notice this last year either. But...
Can’t you just rotate the 80cm (31.5 inches) high and 60cm (23.6 inches) wide doors by 90 degrees to use them? Regarding the pressure that would then apply when pulling, like on a trash drawer, you could use a Hailo waste separation system, as their rails are positioned higher.
That's right, there are no doors with an 80cm (31.5 inches) width and 60cm (23.6 inches) height. Since I only had 60cm (23.6 inches) wide doors, I didn’t notice this last year either. But...
Can’t you just rotate the 80cm (31.5 inches) high and 60cm (23.6 inches) wide doors by 90 degrees to use them? Regarding the pressure that would then apply when pulling, like on a trash drawer, you could use a Hailo waste separation system, as their rails are positioned higher.
Thank you all!
Yes, I meant rotating these doors by 90°—sorry if that was unclear. I actually want to use the IKEA waste sorting system, and the example displayed at the IKEA store was also 80cm (31½ inches) wide and 60cm (24 inches) high, but as a single continuous plexiglass panel. 🙄 Now I would like to recreate that and wonder whether a single continuous door would really be less stable than two drawer fronts screwed together, or if the designer is just trying to annoy me. (These are Veddinge doors, which are only 1.6cm (⅝ inch) thick).
PS: Drilling new holes is not a big deal. There are templates and also products to fill the old holes (the cup hole covers or something like that).
Yes, I meant rotating these doors by 90°—sorry if that was unclear. I actually want to use the IKEA waste sorting system, and the example displayed at the IKEA store was also 80cm (31½ inches) wide and 60cm (24 inches) high, but as a single continuous plexiglass panel. 🙄 Now I would like to recreate that and wonder whether a single continuous door would really be less stable than two drawer fronts screwed together, or if the designer is just trying to annoy me. (These are Veddinge doors, which are only 1.6cm (⅝ inch) thick).
PS: Drilling new holes is not a big deal. There are templates and also products to fill the old holes (the cup hole covers or something like that).
S
Schmidti8220 Mar 2016 13:54Well, I would say that one piece is always more stable than two pieces fastened together with only two rails.
However, the planner cannot rotate things like doors by 90°.
Also, with front panels that have a grain pattern, it looks odd if the grain is turned on a cabinet.
For example, in every Ikea kitchen showroom, there are wall cabinets with a 2m (6 ft 6 in) wide door used as a horizontal flap door, but the planner can’t do that either.
However, the planner cannot rotate things like doors by 90°.
Also, with front panels that have a grain pattern, it looks odd if the grain is turned on a cabinet.
For example, in every Ikea kitchen showroom, there are wall cabinets with a 2m (6 ft 6 in) wide door used as a horizontal flap door, but the planner can’t do that either.
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