Hello! I’m new here, although I’ve read the forum quite a bit and gathered some tips. 🙂
I’m starting to plan a kitchen for our apartment, but I already have some questions that maybe—hopefully—you can help me with.
1) If I have an under-cabinet range hood installed inside the upper cabinet above the stove, won’t the cabinet body and especially the doors get dirty over time? From what I understand, they are unprotected above the stove, and the upper cabinet is only 40cm (16 inches) deep, so it sits directly over the cooktop.
2) If I have a tall cabinet (60cm / 24 inches) next to an upper cabinet (depth 40cm / 16 inches), do I need to install a spacer strip between them so that the upper cabinet doors can open properly? Or can I leave it as is, even if the doors won’t open more than 90°? (Would this also require different hinges?)
3) When the countertop ends at a tall cabinet, it usually overhangs a bit at the front... is that normal, or should the tall cabinet be set back so it’s flush with the countertop rather than with the base cabinets? Or is this just a matter of personal preference? 😳
Picture related to 2 and 3:
4) We have a freestanding dishwasher that probably can’t be integrated with a front panel. That’s not a big deal, BUT: we also can’t place it between two cabinets, so my idea is to simply attach a cover panel on the outside and fix it to the wall and countertop with brackets. Or would I need something sturdier for that? (The countertop is supposed to rest on the dishwasher, with the gap between the dishwasher top and countertop filled with wooden blocks and optionally covered at the front.)
Picture related to 4:
That’s it for now. Tomorrow I want to visit IKEA to look at fronts, countertops, etc., before I probably come up with a thousand more questions. But the kitchen probably won’t be realized before 2017 anyway.
I’m starting to plan a kitchen for our apartment, but I already have some questions that maybe—hopefully—you can help me with.
1) If I have an under-cabinet range hood installed inside the upper cabinet above the stove, won’t the cabinet body and especially the doors get dirty over time? From what I understand, they are unprotected above the stove, and the upper cabinet is only 40cm (16 inches) deep, so it sits directly over the cooktop.
2) If I have a tall cabinet (60cm / 24 inches) next to an upper cabinet (depth 40cm / 16 inches), do I need to install a spacer strip between them so that the upper cabinet doors can open properly? Or can I leave it as is, even if the doors won’t open more than 90°? (Would this also require different hinges?)
3) When the countertop ends at a tall cabinet, it usually overhangs a bit at the front... is that normal, or should the tall cabinet be set back so it’s flush with the countertop rather than with the base cabinets? Or is this just a matter of personal preference? 😳
Picture related to 2 and 3:
4) We have a freestanding dishwasher that probably can’t be integrated with a front panel. That’s not a big deal, BUT: we also can’t place it between two cabinets, so my idea is to simply attach a cover panel on the outside and fix it to the wall and countertop with brackets. Or would I need something sturdier for that? (The countertop is supposed to rest on the dishwasher, with the gap between the dishwasher top and countertop filled with wooden blocks and optionally covered at the front.)
Picture related to 4:
That’s it for now. Tomorrow I want to visit IKEA to look at fronts, countertops, etc., before I probably come up with a thousand more questions. But the kitchen probably won’t be realized before 2017 anyway.
J
Juliette W12 Mar 2016 14:16No cabinets can be hung above the sink (thin wall full of wiring)I definitely do not want to negatively affect your relationship with your landlord; this is simply to point out that in a kitchen, tenants should be able to install wall cabinets. If this is not possible, the landlord needs to make the necessary adjustments.
I
IKEA-Experte12 Mar 2016 14:44Do you only have 20cm (8 inches) of legroom with the Bjursta? If you have more space, try moving the Besta unit forward accordingly. Then place a few books or something similar under the table legs so that the tabletop reaches 92cm (36 inches) above the floor. Eating at that height won’t be very comfortable. Sitting side by side at the countertop for two people reminds me of a fast food atmosphere.
To access the cabinet underneath, you would always have to squat down. If anything, I would at least equip the lower half with drawers and only install doors on the top 40cm (16 inches).
To access the cabinet underneath, you would always have to squat down. If anything, I would at least equip the lower half with drawers and only install doors on the top 40cm (16 inches).
@juliette: Thanks for the tip, I’ll ask about it. But it only concerns one out of four walls, so I’m not sure if it’s contestable.
@Tux: At home, I can’t test this height because I don’t have bar stools – using regular chairs wouldn’t make sense. I definitely planned to check out bar tables first to see how much legroom they offer. The cabinet would have three drawers inside and only one shelf at the top. But you still have to bend down, even with other cabinets.
@Robi: The water pipe runs parallel to the wall behind the sink, about 75cm (30 inches) from the left and 60cm (24 inches) above the floor.
One idea now is maybe to leave some groceries in the hallway. Right next to the kitchen door, a 60x37cm (24x15 inches) tall cabinet could fit. Hmm.
According to the housing association, a renovation is planned for this year – but so far we have no information on whether it will only involve the facade or if work will also be done inside the apartments (e.g., pipes and heating... that would be great). That’s why we haven’t bought a kitchen yet.
@Tux: At home, I can’t test this height because I don’t have bar stools – using regular chairs wouldn’t make sense. I definitely planned to check out bar tables first to see how much legroom they offer. The cabinet would have three drawers inside and only one shelf at the top. But you still have to bend down, even with other cabinets.
@Robi: The water pipe runs parallel to the wall behind the sink, about 75cm (30 inches) from the left and 60cm (24 inches) above the floor.
One idea now is maybe to leave some groceries in the hallway. Right next to the kitchen door, a 60x37cm (24x15 inches) tall cabinet could fit. Hmm.
According to the housing association, a renovation is planned for this year – but so far we have no information on whether it will only involve the facade or if work will also be done inside the apartments (e.g., pipes and heating... that would be great). That’s why we haven’t bought a kitchen yet.
I
IKEA-Experte13 Mar 2016 12:03A Berlin housing company has funds for a renovation? How much the city has changed in recent years.
In an energy-efficient renovation using a problematic thermal connection system, it would be illogical to keep the ventilation unit. If it is happening this year, it should be possible to find out exactly what will be done (at least to the maximum extent).
If you find a folding bar stool with a suitable height, the height of the countertop is naturally not an issue. Personally, I would rather do without a dining area in the kitchen than store food elsewhere, but that depends on individual habits.
Why use complicated pull-outs behind doors? Apart from having to open the doors every time, space at the bottom remains unused because no pull-out can be installed there due to the hinges.
You can also hang cabinets on a drywall partition. How much weight they can carry depends on the wall’s construction.
In an energy-efficient renovation using a problematic thermal connection system, it would be illogical to keep the ventilation unit. If it is happening this year, it should be possible to find out exactly what will be done (at least to the maximum extent).
If you find a folding bar stool with a suitable height, the height of the countertop is naturally not an issue. Personally, I would rather do without a dining area in the kitchen than store food elsewhere, but that depends on individual habits.
Why use complicated pull-outs behind doors? Apart from having to open the doors every time, space at the bottom remains unused because no pull-out can be installed there due to the hinges.
You can also hang cabinets on a drywall partition. How much weight they can carry depends on the wall’s construction.
Well, whether they really have the money will only be decided by mid-year. 😀 Therefore, the statements are not very useful, except for what could be done, but only after the financing plan and apartment inspection are finalized. We’ve already tried to get clearer information without success. 🙄 In any case, kitchen pipes and windows would potentially be included.
The wall vent blows air directly outside, and if that were removed, it would be a shame! We wanted to check whether an electrician could connect the range hood directly (currently, the vent is operated by a switch on the wall).
Drawers behind doors have three reasons:
1) Since our kitchen is very small, we want to keep the fronts mostly “quiet.” Also, we don’t want handles under the table that we might accidentally kick and break.
2) We don’t want the regular drawer spacing but three drawers with about 15 centimeters (6 inches) spacing (this is where we currently store canned goods and cat food, so we know the required measurements). There should be a bottom or an additional drawer at the top and bottom. So, counting from the bottom, low drawers in slots 3, 6, and 9, and bottom or another drawer in slot 12.
3) Financing is another reason because “small expenses add up.” The two 40-centimeter (16 inch) cabinets next to the refrigerator will each have three wire baskets as internal pull-outs behind a large door. This only costs about a third of the price of drawer cabinets and is sufficient for our needs.
BUT: it’s not over yet, and who knows which plans my better half might change when we stroll to IKEA next week. 😀
The wall vent blows air directly outside, and if that were removed, it would be a shame! We wanted to check whether an electrician could connect the range hood directly (currently, the vent is operated by a switch on the wall).
Drawers behind doors have three reasons:
1) Since our kitchen is very small, we want to keep the fronts mostly “quiet.” Also, we don’t want handles under the table that we might accidentally kick and break.
2) We don’t want the regular drawer spacing but three drawers with about 15 centimeters (6 inches) spacing (this is where we currently store canned goods and cat food, so we know the required measurements). There should be a bottom or an additional drawer at the top and bottom. So, counting from the bottom, low drawers in slots 3, 6, and 9, and bottom or another drawer in slot 12.
3) Financing is another reason because “small expenses add up.” The two 40-centimeter (16 inch) cabinets next to the refrigerator will each have three wire baskets as internal pull-outs behind a large door. This only costs about a third of the price of drawer cabinets and is sufficient for our needs.
BUT: it’s not over yet, and who knows which plans my better half might change when we stroll to IKEA next week. 😀
Hi, two questions have come up again. 🙂
1. Is it possible to have one door spanning two cabinets? For example, a 100cm (40 inches) high door over two stacked cabinets (60cm and 40cm (24 inches and 16 inches))? Or would the holes no longer align properly in either of the two cabinets? (The drawings show about 5cm (2 inches) spacing, so we are hoping it might work.)
2. We want a sink base cabinet 80cm (31.5 inches) wide with a waste bin pull-out below. For the lower pull-out (handle height 60cm (24 inches), with a 20cm (8 inches) panel above), can we use an 80 x 60cm (31.5 x 24 inches) door instead of the 40cm and 20cm (16 inches and 8 inches) drawers suggested by the planner? Or would that cause structural problems, like the door breaking or something else?
1. Is it possible to have one door spanning two cabinets? For example, a 100cm (40 inches) high door over two stacked cabinets (60cm and 40cm (24 inches and 16 inches))? Or would the holes no longer align properly in either of the two cabinets? (The drawings show about 5cm (2 inches) spacing, so we are hoping it might work.)
2. We want a sink base cabinet 80cm (31.5 inches) wide with a waste bin pull-out below. For the lower pull-out (handle height 60cm (24 inches), with a 20cm (8 inches) panel above), can we use an 80 x 60cm (31.5 x 24 inches) door instead of the 40cm and 20cm (16 inches and 8 inches) drawers suggested by the planner? Or would that cause structural problems, like the door breaking or something else?
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