Hello,
I am building a single-family house with a general contractor.
After the screed was laid, it was noticed that the staircase is offset by 10cm (4 inches). That means it starts 10cm too early.
According to the plan, there should be 1.05m (41 inches) of space in front of the stairs, but currently, there are only 94cm (37 inches).
As a result, the last step at the top is 10cm (4 inches) lower than planned (according to the plan, the last step was not supposed to be a full step).
The staircase is a straight two-stringer staircase. Since the house has a basement, the staircase cannot simply be shortened because it would otherwise be unsupported.
Are there any options to reduce the stairwell opening? The floor (or basement ceiling) is made of 18cm (7 inches) concrete (prefabricated concrete slab).
Even during planning, the 1.05m (41 inches) space in front of the stairs felt a bit tight; I would be glad to have at least 1 meter (39 inches) here.
Thank you,
morgenstern
I am building a single-family house with a general contractor.
After the screed was laid, it was noticed that the staircase is offset by 10cm (4 inches). That means it starts 10cm too early.
According to the plan, there should be 1.05m (41 inches) of space in front of the stairs, but currently, there are only 94cm (37 inches).
As a result, the last step at the top is 10cm (4 inches) lower than planned (according to the plan, the last step was not supposed to be a full step).
The staircase is a straight two-stringer staircase. Since the house has a basement, the staircase cannot simply be shortened because it would otherwise be unsupported.
Are there any options to reduce the stairwell opening? The floor (or basement ceiling) is made of 18cm (7 inches) concrete (prefabricated concrete slab).
Even during planning, the 1.05m (41 inches) space in front of the stairs felt a bit tight; I would be glad to have at least 1 meter (39 inches) here.
Thank you,
morgenstern
M
morgenstern5 Jan 2022 17:48More space downstairs would be the goal.
Upstairs, I am not opposed to "I will do my very best." No, seriously... Upstairs, I don’t care how wide the first step is, as long as it is flush with the other flooring.
Upstairs, I am not opposed to "I will do my very best." No, seriously... Upstairs, I don’t care how wide the first step is, as long as it is flush with the other flooring.
The first question is why this issue is only being noticed and raised now, when there are clearly pictures showing the defect without the screed.
Relocating it could be challenging. It might be possible to install an angle bracket inside the opening at the bottom, on which the lower support could then be mounted. Unfortunately, the attachment point at the top is not visible, and I cannot definitively say whether this would be fundamentally feasible—just an initial idea, as mentioned.
Alternatively, if the concern is about the created tripping hazard, the wall could be extended or thickened by 10cm (4 inches) and the 95cm (37 inches) passage width accepted, as annoying as that may be.
Relocating it could be challenging. It might be possible to install an angle bracket inside the opening at the bottom, on which the lower support could then be mounted. Unfortunately, the attachment point at the top is not visible, and I cannot definitively say whether this would be fundamentally feasible—just an initial idea, as mentioned.
Alternatively, if the concern is about the created tripping hazard, the wall could be extended or thickened by 10cm (4 inches) and the 95cm (37 inches) passage width accepted, as annoying as that may be.
In der Ruine6 Jan 2022 06:55I see this as a solvable problem. Have the screed removed at the bottom. Detach the staircase, shorten it at the top, and weld on the appropriate bracket, then extend the staircase accordingly at the bottom.
Since it's steel and not wood, the issue should be relatively easy to fix.
Whether the staircase needs to be dismantled or can be adjusted while installed using suitable lifting equipment is something the staircase installer must decide.
Who will cover the costs is another question.
Since it's steel and not wood, the issue should be relatively easy to fix.
Whether the staircase needs to be dismantled or can be adjusted while installed using suitable lifting equipment is something the staircase installer must decide.
Who will cover the costs is another question.
In der Ruine schrieb:
So, I see a solvable problem here. Have the screed removed at the bottom. Detach the staircase, shorten it at the top, and weld a suitable bracket. Then extend the staircase at the bottom accordingly. Since it’s steel and not wood, the problem should be relatively easy to fix. Whether the staircase has to be removed for this or can be adjusted in place using appropriate lifting equipment must be decided by the staircase fitter. Who will cover the costs is another question.That was also my initial thought regarding changing the staircase fixing. Release the connection at the bottom, push the staircase backward, and fix it at the old support points using horizontal square tubes instead of the current vertical ones. Alternatively, screw the stringer directly to the floor slab at the end face. There are several options. However, at step 5 or 6, there is a side attachment of the stringer to the wall. This will make relocating the staircase more difficult.
In der Ruine6 Jan 2022 11:45Mike29 schrieb:
However, at step 5 or 6, you can see a lateral attachment of the main stair stringer to the wall. This will make relocating the staircase difficult.If there is "only a square tube embedded in the wall," you can chip out a 10cm (4 inch) section behind it, move the staircase, and then mortar it back in. Since this topic is clearly very important to the OP, a solution can be found.M
morgenstern6 Jan 2022 21:24The staircase is anchored to the wall in two places. Unfortunately, I don’t know the exact details of how this is done. But knowing that it can be done is already an important point for me. The general contractor should consider the costs ;-)
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