Hello,
the carpenter working on our stairs is making a groove in the stringer at the back where we can run a cable. Every fourth stair tread, the stringer will have a hole drilled for a recessed LED spotlight. The plan is to have a cable come out of the wall behind the stringer and then be routed into the groove. That’s the theory so far.
A few questions:
- Is it allowed to run high-voltage wiring inside the groove of the stringer?
- When the carpenter drills the holes for the recessed spotlights, I assume this will be done on site, creating a hole in the stringer and then into the wall (since I have a prefabricated house). I could then install the lamp holders there. Is this allowed for high-voltage wiring?
the carpenter working on our stairs is making a groove in the stringer at the back where we can run a cable. Every fourth stair tread, the stringer will have a hole drilled for a recessed LED spotlight. The plan is to have a cable come out of the wall behind the stringer and then be routed into the groove. That’s the theory so far.
A few questions:
- Is it allowed to run high-voltage wiring inside the groove of the stringer?
- When the carpenter drills the holes for the recessed spotlights, I assume this will be done on site, creating a hole in the stringer and then into the wall (since I have a prefabricated house). I could then install the lamp holders there. Is this allowed for high-voltage wiring?
H
hampshire18 May 2021 08:42Here’s what I would pay attention to:
Light direction and diffusion – you don’t want to be dazzled.
Heat dissipation – even LEDs operating on 12 / 24V DC generate heat.
Positioning the driver directly behind the fixture as a separate component.
Choose the fixtures before fabricating the stringer panels to ensure the cutouts fit perfectly.
A WEL Q14 step light with 14 LEDs at 1.2W would be suitable for me. It’s a good idea to buy a few extra, so replacing them over the next 20 years won’t be an issue (rated for 20,000 switching cycles and 30,000 hours of operation). Costs are around 20€ each. No GU-base format needed.
Light direction and diffusion – you don’t want to be dazzled.
Heat dissipation – even LEDs operating on 12 / 24V DC generate heat.
Positioning the driver directly behind the fixture as a separate component.
Choose the fixtures before fabricating the stringer panels to ensure the cutouts fit perfectly.
A WEL Q14 step light with 14 LEDs at 1.2W would be suitable for me. It’s a good idea to buy a few extra, so replacing them over the next 20 years won’t be an issue (rated for 20,000 switching cycles and 30,000 hours of operation). Costs are around 20€ each. No GU-base format needed.
M
Myrna_Loy18 May 2021 10:15It should also be ensured that the cable duct and transformers remain accessible later on, without having to remove the staircase. I speak from painful experience.
H
hampshire18 May 2021 15:18Myrna_Loy schrieb:
It should also be ensured that the cable duct and transformers can be accessed later without having to remove the staircase. I speak from unfortunate experience. Good point! In many models with decentralized transformers, the opening for the light fixture itself is sufficient.