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Travelman31 Jan 2026 13:25Hello everyone,
We are currently planning a new build. We want to install recessed lights (spots) throughout the entire house, as well as about 8 to 9 exterior lights around the building.
Since we have an upcoming appointment with our electrician, I wanted to ask for your advice beforehand.
We will have a concrete ceiling that won’t be dropped, meaning we need to plan the recessed lights in advance. According to the builder, these are quite expensive with the electrician, but it’s our clear preference. Additionally, we want some flexibility to have dimmable lighting in the living, dining, and kitchen areas (an open L-shaped space).
I’ve been thinking about the following idea:
We plan to install Zigbee-compatible bulbs (for example from INNR) and use the Philips HUE bridge (which works with INNR) along with the corresponding dimmer switches from HUE. We want to control the recessed lights in three separate zones (living, dining, and kitchen), so the HUE switches would probably be cheaper or cost about the same but would offer smart functionality if we want to add other bulbs later or turn on two more spots in the living area with a button.
If I understand correctly, the recessed lights would be powered with constant live, and the HUE bridge would allow us to configure everything accordingly. Do you see any disadvantages with this approach? For me, it sounds promising so far.
For the rest of the house, we would probably install standard non-dimmable recessed lights, as dimming isn’t necessary there.
For the exterior, I’m also planning to use INNR bulbs because I would like to control them with a HUE motion sensor. We live a bit remote, so I would like a scenario such as: when the motion sensor behind the house detects movement, the back lights turn on. As I understand it, the advantage is that one constant live switch for the entire exterior lighting would be enough, and the rest can be controlled via HUE. Also, I could buy a flexible HUE motion sensor that doesn’t require wiring, which would save us quite a bit on electrician costs.
Do you think this approach could work?
Thanks in advance for your help – I don’t want to start a fundamental discussion about HUE, just want to check whether my idea as it stands can work and seems sensible.
THANK YOU all!
We are currently planning a new build. We want to install recessed lights (spots) throughout the entire house, as well as about 8 to 9 exterior lights around the building.
Since we have an upcoming appointment with our electrician, I wanted to ask for your advice beforehand.
We will have a concrete ceiling that won’t be dropped, meaning we need to plan the recessed lights in advance. According to the builder, these are quite expensive with the electrician, but it’s our clear preference. Additionally, we want some flexibility to have dimmable lighting in the living, dining, and kitchen areas (an open L-shaped space).
I’ve been thinking about the following idea:
We plan to install Zigbee-compatible bulbs (for example from INNR) and use the Philips HUE bridge (which works with INNR) along with the corresponding dimmer switches from HUE. We want to control the recessed lights in three separate zones (living, dining, and kitchen), so the HUE switches would probably be cheaper or cost about the same but would offer smart functionality if we want to add other bulbs later or turn on two more spots in the living area with a button.
If I understand correctly, the recessed lights would be powered with constant live, and the HUE bridge would allow us to configure everything accordingly. Do you see any disadvantages with this approach? For me, it sounds promising so far.
For the rest of the house, we would probably install standard non-dimmable recessed lights, as dimming isn’t necessary there.
For the exterior, I’m also planning to use INNR bulbs because I would like to control them with a HUE motion sensor. We live a bit remote, so I would like a scenario such as: when the motion sensor behind the house detects movement, the back lights turn on. As I understand it, the advantage is that one constant live switch for the entire exterior lighting would be enough, and the rest can be controlled via HUE. Also, I could buy a flexible HUE motion sensor that doesn’t require wiring, which would save us quite a bit on electrician costs.
Do you think this approach could work?
Thanks in advance for your help – I don’t want to start a fundamental discussion about HUE, just want to check whether my idea as it stands can work and seems sensible.
THANK YOU all!
N
nordanney31 Jan 2026 16:21Travelman schrieb:
wanted to ask you for advice beforehand My advice:
Avoid downlights that make the rooms look like offices. Plan your lighting with different light sources according to your needs (indirect lighting, wall lamps, floor lamps, lighting in the kitchen—downlights are fine here to illuminate the work surfaces—and also possible in hallways or bathrooms, table lamps, lights on the window sill, LED strips, etc.).
Travelman schrieb:
outside about 8–9 exterior lights on the house Oops. A light show? Plan the outdoor lighting according to your needs as well, and avoid just creating light pollution.
I can’t say anything about Hue technology. I don’t use something like that privately either.
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MachsSelbst1 Feb 2026 20:39A neighbor here has 14 Philips Hue up-and-down lights... it looks really impressive, but it costs a lot of money and, of course, despite being LED, still consumes a significant amount of electricity.
I can definitely recommend Hue; it’s a complete ecosystem on its own. There are now also compatible flush-mounted actuators from third-party manufacturers, although I haven’t tried those yet. However, I wouldn’t rely entirely on motion sensors—I would include one or more switches as well, since you want to be able to turn the lights on or off manually sometimes.
And indoors? Only spotlights? Forget it. Even office buildings have moved beyond that by now.
I can definitely recommend Hue; it’s a complete ecosystem on its own. There are now also compatible flush-mounted actuators from third-party manufacturers, although I haven’t tried those yet. However, I wouldn’t rely entirely on motion sensors—I would include one or more switches as well, since you want to be able to turn the lights on or off manually sometimes.
And indoors? Only spotlights? Forget it. Even office buildings have moved beyond that by now.
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