ᐅ Solid wood parquet on underfloor heating

HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

What might still be important for the installation method is that although we removed the tiles, we left the tile adhesive in place. Using a hammer drill was too much effort for me, and I wouldn’t have managed it for almost 100 m² (1,076 ft²). However, the floor installer said he would just use a milling tool to break off the high spots and level the floor. I’m curious to see how well that works.

If you don’t want to use sleeper battens and screwed floorboards, I would seriously question this approach.

Other installation methods require a smooth, skim-coated/levelled subfloor.

I’m not sure how comparable the situations are, but here’s some information on how things are going for us:

Our concrete floor is quite rough. As a layperson, I thought it would need to be smoothed first, but several contractors convinced me that the Styrofoam panels (onto which the heating pipes are clipped with small plastic clips) can be laid directly on the unsmoothed concrete (this is how it has been done so far... "You might as well throw your money away – but it’s not necessary").

On top of the prepared underfloor heating system (hopefully soon – due to COVID-related absences, it’s taking longer than planned), a screed layer about 6cm (2.4 inches) thick will be applied. Its surface has been promised to be smoothly leveled, so that the 8mm (0.3 inch) thin wooden floor can be glued onto it.

At the moment, different tradespeople are walking over the exposed pipes again, and I hope nothing gets damaged, but these tasks have to be done at some point. The whole process is now taking well over a year instead of just a few months 🤨

Of course, applying filler under the screed is a waste of money!

The surface directly beneath the floor covering is always smoothed with filler, or in the case of drywall systems, the raw subfloor.

HarvSpec schrieb:

Sure, applying filler under the screed is a waste of money!

In the case mentioned above, the question is whether the adhesive should be removed entirely or if it is sufficient to sand down the protrusions.
I assume sanding down the protrusions is enough.

HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

Floating installation method recommended, but I was somewhat influenced by the advice of several other parquet installers who strongly recommended gluing it down.

I’ve now received an updated quote. It’s significantly more expensive, partly due to a larger area and a more expensive flooring material. However, he now wants to glue the parquet down. I’m not so sure about that. Apparently, this is to decouple the flooring from the subfloor because of cracks. Is that really necessary?

HubiTrubi40 schrieb:

I have now received an updated offer. It’s noticeably more expensive, partly because of the larger floor area and more expensive covering. However, he now wants to glue the parquet down. I’m not so sure about that. Apparently, this is to decouple the floor covering from the subfloor because of cracks. Is that really necessary?

What you’re writing is a bit unclear to me:
“Gluing to decouple”? That doesn’t make sense.
“Cracks in the subfloor where there is underfloor heating”? That doesn’t fit either…
If cracks are present, meaning the subfloor is moving, you can’t glue something over the cracks that spans them.