ᐅ Chases in Poroton T12 blocks

Created on: 12 Dec 2016 16:57
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krausf3
Hey, as mentioned above, I’m looking for a way to cut the channels for the wiring myself.

Online, there seems to be no upper price limit for wall groove cutters. I’m aware of the saying that buying cheap means buying twice. That’s why I’m just looking for opinions here on whether it’s worth investing around 200 EUR for a wall groove cutter. If so, do you have any experience with specific models?

Another question: Is this even possible with the uneven T12?

Best regards,
Florian
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Peanuts74
19 Dec 2016 14:24
What do you mean by controlling centrally, impulse relays???

Otherwise, it doesn’t make sense, since the lights are usually wired at the switch.
However, I also have a supply line from the meter cabinet to the switch for a maximum of 2 lamps each, of course inside conduit...
The sockets are the same; even the sockets in the living area have 3 supply lines with corresponding 3 circuit breakers.
AOLNCM20 Dec 2016 09:51
Peanuts74 schrieb:
What do you mean by central switching, impulse relay???

If by relay you mean the actuators, then yes.
Peanuts74 schrieb:
Otherwise it doesn’t make sense, as lamps are usually wired directly at the switch.
However, I also have a supply line from the meter cabinet to the switch for a maximum of two lamps each, of course inside a conduit...

That is one of the two main differences. All switches or motion detectors (sensors) require an additional cable (bus or KNX cable, the green wire), otherwise the wiring can remain the same.
Peanuts74 schrieb:
Sockets too, the sockets in the living area alone have three supply lines with three corresponding circuit breakers.

And that brings us to the second difference. For a typical room size (except the kitchen), the electrician might set up two circuits: one for lighting and one for three sockets in three corners of the room.
When preparing for KNX, he needs to wire each socket individually from the distribution board.

If you read about wiring for KNX online, most KNX proponents talk about simplified installation effort. If you talk to an electrician, they say costs are higher due to increased installation effort.
I consider the installation effort to be about the same (excluding materials); the installer just has to think more during routing and especially when connecting, because KNX installations are less common.

Back to the topic.

Even if I had installed the cables to the sockets, whether for KNX or not, inside the Poroton wall (not in suspended ceilings) without conduit (in case of uncertainty I would use 5x1.5 mm² (10 AWG) instead of 3x1.5 mm² (10 AWG) to allow for future expansion), if someone wants a conduit up to the socket, just search for "Fränkische cable protection conduit".

The ones you find at hardware stores are single-walled, meaning the inside surface is just as sharp-edged as the outside.
The "Fränkische cable protection conduit" is double-walled, with a square outer surface and a rounded inner surface.
This makes it much easier to pull a cable through.

That said, when preparing for KNX, I would pull the KNX cable in right away. When replacing cables, one person has to pull from one end while another pushes from the other end, which is already difficult enough. If an empty conduit was installed, there is a risk that it narrows somewhere, e.g., due to too small a radius. Then even the best conduit won’t help.
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Peanuts74
20 Dec 2016 10:37
3 x 1.5??? No, for me only 2.5
AOLNCM20 Dec 2016 13:13
Peanuts74 schrieb:
The power outlets as well, just the outlets in the living area have 3 supply lines each with 3 corresponding circuit breakers.
Peanuts74 schrieb:
3 x 1.5??? No, mine are all 2.5

Who advised you?
Did you install 2.5 sqmm (approximately 2.7 sq ft) wiring for each individual power outlet?
If a suitable 20A circuit breaker was installed for the cable cross-section, you are now allowed to connect devices up to 4.4 kW instead of just 3.5 kW.

Since September 2017, new vacuum cleaners are not allowed to exceed 900W, and current models no longer exceed 1600W.
What do you plan to connect to your outlets?
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Peanuts74
20 Dec 2016 13:25
AOLNCM schrieb:
Who advised you?
Did you have 2.5 mm² (approximately 14 AWG) cables installed for each outlet?
If a suitable 20A circuit breaker was installed for that cable cross-section, you are now allowed to connect devices up to 4.4 kW instead of only 3.5 kW.

Since September 2017, new vacuum cleaners are not allowed to exceed 900W (about 1.2 HP), and current ones no longer exceed 1600W (about 2.1 HP).
What devices do you plan to connect to your outlets?

??? There are not just three outlets in the living area; I was referring to three supply lines. Of course, each line has multiple outlets.
Besides, you cannot generally say that a 2.5 mm² (approximately 14 AWG) cable can be protected with a 20A breaker; it depends on the cable length and its electrical resistance. If you use 1.5 mm² (approximately 16 AWG) cable, especially for a longer supply line and daisy-chain four to five outlets, you will quickly reach the limit allowed.
For example, our staircase lighting runs from the basement to the attic and back, so a 16A breaker was no longer an option for 1.5 mm² cable.
I don’t know to what extent the regulations differ from state to state, but when it comes to cables—meaning components you don’t want to replace later—I wouldn’t cut costs.
Besides, only vacuum cleaners above the specified power are prohibited from being sold. But do you immediately buy a new vacuum cleaner, washer, dryer, hairdryer, etc., just because of that?
AOLNCM20 Dec 2016 14:07
You are right, and I am wrong.

It is good that multiple power outlets were installed; most multi-socket adapters are only rated up to 3500W.

I was aware that the resistance depends, among other things, on the length of the cable. Thank you.

The limit of what is allowed is not determined by the number of outlets. For the number of electrical circuits for lighting and power outlets in a residential building, the living area is decisive. Up to 50 sqm (540 sq ft), two circuits are sufficient.

I don’t know why your staircase lighting was rerouted or why 16A and 1.5 sq mm (15 sq ft) cable size was out of the question; most staircase lights are LEDs with about 1W power. I wouldn’t recommend more than one LED per 1 meter (3.3 feet) anyway, as it becomes way too bright at night in the staircase.

You are, of course, right that it is not advisable to save on electrical work, insulation, or other building materials. Everyone should keep their budget in mind, and whether they over-dimension one or more trades is up to each individual. If there are specific reasons for it, why not.

Separate wiring has been installed for my washing machine, dryer, and hairdryer.