ᐅ Sliding Door on a Load-Bearing Interior Wall – How to Cover It?
Created on: 28 Jan 2024 21:06
C
cryptoki
Hi.
Sliding door on a load-bearing interior wall – How to cover it so that it becomes a pocket door.
Current situation:
17.5 cm (7 inches) solid sand-lime brick wall with a rough opening of 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide by 2.14 m (7 ft) high above the finished floor level.
Desired situation:
A 2-leaf sliding door for the 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide door opening. The sliding door should be covered so that it functions as a pocket door running inside the wall. The construction should add as little thickness as possible to the wall, as there is no space for an additional 15 cm (6 inches).
There are ready-made drywall system solutions available. These include the sliding door frame on both sides so that it can be either drywalled or plastered and are correspondingly wide.
Any ideas?
Thanks. Steffen
Sliding door on a load-bearing interior wall – How to cover it so that it becomes a pocket door.
Current situation:
17.5 cm (7 inches) solid sand-lime brick wall with a rough opening of 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide by 2.14 m (7 ft) high above the finished floor level.
Desired situation:
A 2-leaf sliding door for the 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide door opening. The sliding door should be covered so that it functions as a pocket door running inside the wall. The construction should add as little thickness as possible to the wall, as there is no space for an additional 15 cm (6 inches).
There are ready-made drywall system solutions available. These include the sliding door frame on both sides so that it can be either drywalled or plastered and are correspondingly wide.
Any ideas?
Thanks. Steffen
H
hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 11:58Once again, the 4 minutes.
I can only recommend paying attention to soft-close mechanisms on the doors.
I can only recommend paying attention to soft-close mechanisms on the doors.
H
hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 12:03Tolentino schrieb:
The problem is, if you make it that thin and the cavity is mainly used for the door, you won’t be able to fit any insulation. So you automatically end up with a resonating chamber. Acoustically, that could be very unsatisfactory. Is a sliding door really essential? Maybe try it without one at first?
We originally planned a door between the open living area and the hallway but decided not to install it initially. In everyday use, it actually works fine without it.
Sliding doors generally don’t provide much sound insulation anyway. There’s a wall behind it anyway. But acoustically, it’s a difficult issue regardless. You can still fit 3 cm (1¼ inches) of polystyrene in there.
I also only had an opening to the hallway. In the end, I did install sliding doors later.
I am referring to the cavity between the drywall frame and the wall. In standard drywall construction, this cavity is filled with mineral wool or wood fiber insulation to prevent it from becoming a resonance chamber.
For a sliding door that moves into the wall, the space between the wallboard and the door panel must also be considered, as there is usually more room there.
The door moves into the drywall frame, and the sound amplifies within the cavity, causing the entire drywall structure to vibrate. Essentially, what is created is like a drum.
For a sliding door that moves into the wall, the space between the wallboard and the door panel must also be considered, as there is usually more room there.
The door moves into the drywall frame, and the sound amplifies within the cavity, causing the entire drywall structure to vibrate. Essentially, what is created is like a drum.
Thank you for the suggestions. Soft-close is noted and makes perfect sense. We also specially ordered that feature for our lift-and-slide door. Soundproofing is also a good point.
The door is necessary to separate the kitchen from the open-plan living and dining area. Usually, the door remains open but can be closed when cooking. We enjoy cooking, so this is a MUST-have feature. Regarding ventilation, we have deliberately decided against an exhaust system and opted for a recirculating option instead. This decision is final.
Okay. Currently, I see three solutions:
The door is necessary to separate the kitchen from the open-plan living and dining area. Usually, the door remains open but can be closed when cooking. We enjoy cooking, so this is a MUST-have feature. Regarding ventilation, we have deliberately decided against an exhaust system and opted for a recirculating option instead. This decision is final.
Okay. Currently, I see three solutions:
- Talk to the tiled stove builder to see if it might be better and even look good if the sliding door runs behind the tiled stove bench. This would also require a kind of drywall frame, but only on one side, with a depth of 90cm (35 inches) and a height of perhaps 1m (39 inches). Then the door would run a bit behind the backrest. Advantage: space feels larger; disadvantage: sliding door track would be visible from the dining and living areas.
- Partially enclose the sliding door with drywall in the dining area. Disadvantages: additional shell and build-up.
- Place the sliding door on the kitchen side without enclosure. Disadvantage: fridge must stand 6-8cm (2.4-3.1 inches) away from the wall to allow the door to slide behind it. No switches or sockets possible directly at the kitchen entrance.
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hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 12:22I would cover the entire wall. Please share the floor plan with the furniture layout so that the situation can be understood better.
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