ᐅ Sliding Door on a Load-Bearing Interior Wall – How to Cover It?
Created on: 28 Jan 2024 21:06
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cryptoki
Hi.
Sliding door on a load-bearing interior wall – How to cover it so that it becomes a pocket door.
Current situation:
17.5 cm (7 inches) solid sand-lime brick wall with a rough opening of 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide by 2.14 m (7 ft) high above the finished floor level.
Desired situation:
A 2-leaf sliding door for the 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide door opening. The sliding door should be covered so that it functions as a pocket door running inside the wall. The construction should add as little thickness as possible to the wall, as there is no space for an additional 15 cm (6 inches).
There are ready-made drywall system solutions available. These include the sliding door frame on both sides so that it can be either drywalled or plastered and are correspondingly wide.
Any ideas?
Thanks. Steffen
Sliding door on a load-bearing interior wall – How to cover it so that it becomes a pocket door.
Current situation:
17.5 cm (7 inches) solid sand-lime brick wall with a rough opening of 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide by 2.14 m (7 ft) high above the finished floor level.
Desired situation:
A 2-leaf sliding door for the 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) wide door opening. The sliding door should be covered so that it functions as a pocket door running inside the wall. The construction should add as little thickness as possible to the wall, as there is no space for an additional 15 cm (6 inches).
There are ready-made drywall system solutions available. These include the sliding door frame on both sides so that it can be either drywalled or plastered and are correspondingly wide.
Any ideas?
Thanks. Steffen
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hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 10:20This is how it looks for me. No door frame is necessary. However, there is no cladding on the back side. The door is usually closed.
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hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 10:28I made the image a bit smaller.
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hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 10:32You basically only need half of the drywall solution. Do you already have the track? How wide is it?
Thank you @hanghaus2023 .. so far nothing has been purchased, but we need to take care of that soon. It’s about time.
I will talk to the construction company about how we can cover it narrowly and still make it stable. In front of the wall will be the dining area, and on the right side the stove bench is supposed to go. An open sliding door there would get in the way because the backrest tiles of the tiled stove bench need to extend into the corner. On the other side of the room is the kitchen, where a covered sliding door would take up space and interfere with the fridge and other appliances. Also, there would be no room for a light switch or power outlets directly at the entrance anymore. That wouldn’t be a problem in the dining area. Nothing is supposed to be mounted there either.
I will talk to the construction company about how we can cover it narrowly and still make it stable. In front of the wall will be the dining area, and on the right side the stove bench is supposed to go. An open sliding door there would get in the way because the backrest tiles of the tiled stove bench need to extend into the corner. On the other side of the room is the kitchen, where a covered sliding door would take up space and interfere with the fridge and other appliances. Also, there would be no room for a light switch or power outlets directly at the entrance anymore. That wouldn’t be a problem in the dining area. Nothing is supposed to be mounted there either.
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hanghaus202329 Jan 2024 11:52This is quite simple with drywall construction. Use CB profiles lying flat in the area of the sliding door and standing upright for the rest. You should plan for about 8cm (3 inches), depending on the thickness of the door and the track.
Don’t forget to install a piece of plywood or similar material behind any part of the drywall where something heavy will be mounted.
Don’t forget to install a piece of plywood or similar material behind any part of the drywall where something heavy will be mounted.
The problem with making it that thin, and since the cavity is mainly intended for the door, you won’t be able to install any insulation. So you automatically end up with a resonating cavity, which could be very unsatisfactory in terms of soundproofing. Is a sliding door really essential? Maybe try it without one at first? We initially planned a door between the open space and the hallway but didn’t install it right away. In everyday use, it actually works fine without it. Sliding doors generally don’t provide much sound insulation anyway.
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