Hello everyone,
At our developer, a customer who had reserved a plot of land dropped out. Since the other plot faces south / southwest, we didn’t hesitate long and switched to that plot. The new plot is smaller, so we gave up on our bungalow dream. The plot number is 5.
To remind you: The plot is tied to the developer.
I have been thinking over the past few days about the arrangement and design of the rooms and the plot, and I would first like to know if the concept is okay. I am not concerned with details inside the rooms such as windows, doors, or bathroom design. That’s not possible anyway since I created the floor plan myself based on Gussek Haus floor plans. However, I tried to design it as well as possible. For this reason, I want to share the floor plan here for discussion. I’m mainly looking for feedback on the layout and room arrangement, as well as ideas, suggestions, or tips. Maybe you’ll also spot things that “just don’t work” or are not practical for everyday living.
I created the floor plan with RoomSketcher, but only used the free version, so many features are limited. Please ignore the room dimensions on the upper floor. There is a dormer in the area of the home office.
A few more details about the house.
Roof pitch 38°
Knee wall (Drempel) 100cm (39 inches)
External dimensions 12.85 x 9.60 m (42.2 x 31.5 feet) (enlarged, original dimensions of Gussek Haus models are smaller)
Unfortunately, I cannot show internal room dimensions because RoomSketcher does not allow it.
Attached again is the completed questionnaire.
Development Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 676m²
Slope: NO
Site coverage ratio: 0.4 (allowed exceedance 25 out of 100)
Floor area ratio: 0.6
Building envelope, building line, and boundaries: On the north side / south side approx. 20.5 m (67 feet) wide, west and east sides approx. 33 m (108 feet) wide, 3 m (10 feet) building setback on each side, rectangular plot, clearly visible in the pictures
Edge construction setback: 3 m (10 feet)
Number of parking spaces: no requirement
Number of stories: maximum 2 full stories
Roof style: Gable roof, hipped roof
Other requirements: Garage must be 5 m (16 feet) from the property boundary. Garage on the west side because the curb is lowered there.
Homeowners’ Requirements
Architectural style, roof type, building type: Doesn’t matter, initially considered a house with a gable roof, there is a dormer in the home office area
Basement, number of floors: No basement due to high groundwater level
Number of occupants, ages: 4 people aged 36 (female), 37 (male), 3 (child), 1 (child)
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor:
Ground floor: Living/dining/kitchen area, utility room, guest WC with shower, hallway with coat area and stairs to upper floor, guest room / playroom
Upper floor: Master bedroom, 2 children’s rooms, bathroom, storage room, office
Office use: Family use or home office? Home office combined with family use
Guests per year: 1–2 times
Open or closed architecture: Closed architecture?
Conservative or modern style: A mix of both
Open kitchen, kitchen island: Closed kitchen with island would be nice but not a must; open kitchen is also an option
Number of dining seats: 4, with the option for 6
Fireplace: No
Music / stereo wall: Sound system in the living room
Balcony, roof terrace: No
Garage, carport: Space for 2 cars is required, preferably 3 to 4. Currently considering a garage (3 x 6 m / 9.8 x 19.7 feet) with a carport (3.6 m / 12 feet) in front, not sure if that works. Plus 2 parking spaces in front of the house.
Utility garden, greenhouse: No
Additional wishes / special features / daily routine, including reasons why certain things should or shouldn’t be:
House Design
Who created the design:
- DIY - copy and combination of Gussek Haus models Lindenallee, Kiefernallee variant 1, and Buchenallee variant 2
What do you especially like? Why?
- Large closed kitchen with island and direct / short access to the terrace
- Living room close to the terrace
- Guest / playroom on the ground floor
- Storage room on the upper floor with washing machine and dryer
- Utility room with washing machine and dryer (yes, twice)
- 6 rooms
- Layout of rooms on the upper floor
What do you not like? Why?
- Location of the home office on the upper floor is not ideal in my view, but I could live with it
Price estimate from architect/planner: No new estimate so far
Personal price limit for house including features: 400,000
Preferred heating system: Heat pump
Why does the design look like it does now? For example:
Copy-paste of Gussek Haus models Lindenallee, Kiefernallee variant 1, and Buchenallee variant 2
What is the most important fundamental question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
Is the room layout okay?
At our developer, a customer who had reserved a plot of land dropped out. Since the other plot faces south / southwest, we didn’t hesitate long and switched to that plot. The new plot is smaller, so we gave up on our bungalow dream. The plot number is 5.
To remind you: The plot is tied to the developer.
I have been thinking over the past few days about the arrangement and design of the rooms and the plot, and I would first like to know if the concept is okay. I am not concerned with details inside the rooms such as windows, doors, or bathroom design. That’s not possible anyway since I created the floor plan myself based on Gussek Haus floor plans. However, I tried to design it as well as possible. For this reason, I want to share the floor plan here for discussion. I’m mainly looking for feedback on the layout and room arrangement, as well as ideas, suggestions, or tips. Maybe you’ll also spot things that “just don’t work” or are not practical for everyday living.
I created the floor plan with RoomSketcher, but only used the free version, so many features are limited. Please ignore the room dimensions on the upper floor. There is a dormer in the area of the home office.
A few more details about the house.
Roof pitch 38°
Knee wall (Drempel) 100cm (39 inches)
External dimensions 12.85 x 9.60 m (42.2 x 31.5 feet) (enlarged, original dimensions of Gussek Haus models are smaller)
Unfortunately, I cannot show internal room dimensions because RoomSketcher does not allow it.
Attached again is the completed questionnaire.
Development Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 676m²
Slope: NO
Site coverage ratio: 0.4 (allowed exceedance 25 out of 100)
Floor area ratio: 0.6
Building envelope, building line, and boundaries: On the north side / south side approx. 20.5 m (67 feet) wide, west and east sides approx. 33 m (108 feet) wide, 3 m (10 feet) building setback on each side, rectangular plot, clearly visible in the pictures
Edge construction setback: 3 m (10 feet)
Number of parking spaces: no requirement
Number of stories: maximum 2 full stories
Roof style: Gable roof, hipped roof
Other requirements: Garage must be 5 m (16 feet) from the property boundary. Garage on the west side because the curb is lowered there.
Homeowners’ Requirements
Architectural style, roof type, building type: Doesn’t matter, initially considered a house with a gable roof, there is a dormer in the home office area
Basement, number of floors: No basement due to high groundwater level
Number of occupants, ages: 4 people aged 36 (female), 37 (male), 3 (child), 1 (child)
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor:
Ground floor: Living/dining/kitchen area, utility room, guest WC with shower, hallway with coat area and stairs to upper floor, guest room / playroom
Upper floor: Master bedroom, 2 children’s rooms, bathroom, storage room, office
Office use: Family use or home office? Home office combined with family use
Guests per year: 1–2 times
Open or closed architecture: Closed architecture?
Conservative or modern style: A mix of both
Open kitchen, kitchen island: Closed kitchen with island would be nice but not a must; open kitchen is also an option
Number of dining seats: 4, with the option for 6
Fireplace: No
Music / stereo wall: Sound system in the living room
Balcony, roof terrace: No
Garage, carport: Space for 2 cars is required, preferably 3 to 4. Currently considering a garage (3 x 6 m / 9.8 x 19.7 feet) with a carport (3.6 m / 12 feet) in front, not sure if that works. Plus 2 parking spaces in front of the house.
Utility garden, greenhouse: No
Additional wishes / special features / daily routine, including reasons why certain things should or shouldn’t be:
House Design
Who created the design:
- DIY - copy and combination of Gussek Haus models Lindenallee, Kiefernallee variant 1, and Buchenallee variant 2
What do you especially like? Why?
- Large closed kitchen with island and direct / short access to the terrace
- Living room close to the terrace
- Guest / playroom on the ground floor
- Storage room on the upper floor with washing machine and dryer
- Utility room with washing machine and dryer (yes, twice)
- 6 rooms
- Layout of rooms on the upper floor
What do you not like? Why?
- Location of the home office on the upper floor is not ideal in my view, but I could live with it
Price estimate from architect/planner: No new estimate so far
Personal price limit for house including features: 400,000
Preferred heating system: Heat pump
Why does the design look like it does now? For example:
Copy-paste of Gussek Haus models Lindenallee, Kiefernallee variant 1, and Buchenallee variant 2
What is the most important fundamental question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
Is the room layout okay?
kaho674 schrieb:
It’s best not to include any measurements at allOr only the essential measurements that must definitely be met.https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
C
Chrisi190617 Apr 2020 21:1811ant schrieb:
If you design the attic floor as a full upper floor (the same usable area as the ground floor without being reduced by sloped ceilings) = "town villa," then you avoid all issues with low headroom even without enlarging the footprint. So stick to the "original" floor plan size if you want to increase the attic/upper floor by adding sloped areas. Two expansions at once are one too many.
What I meant: 1. only increase size where it’s actually too "tight"; 2. changing from a one-and-a-half-story to a two-story automatically solves all low-clearance problems; 3. don’t combine the two methods "increase exterior dimensions" and "replace sloped ceilings with full height," or it will be too much overall; 4. don’t over-perfect the design – StanSch and more recently Shiny86 have already overdone it more than enough. The only tight spot for me on the upper floor is the office. So the room between the two kids’ bedrooms. The rest is spacious. But I wouldn’t overemphasize that room either. What matters is that my furniture fits, which it does with house dimensions of 12.85m x 9.6m (42.2 ft x 31.5 ft) and a knee wall height of 140cm (55 inches).
On the ground floor, the guest toilet feels a bit cramped and could generally be larger. But 4.5sqm (48 sq ft) is not terribly small either.
Since I don’t want a town villa for now, I will increase the house dimensions and lower the knee wall again. The ground floor is more important to me than the upper floor. If I do decide to go for a town villa, I would scale back the size of the house since, as you already pointed out, all tight spots on the upper floor can be avoided.
kbt09 schrieb:
I just don’t like having the shower and toilet right next to each other in a space about 2 meters (6.5 ft) wide. I prefer showers that span the width of the guest bathroom. That way, the bathroom width can be limited to under 2 meters, even down to 150cm (59 inches). Okay, understood.
Alessandro schrieb:
In my experience, builders prefer when you provide them with your room requirements, wishes, and budget (meaning maximum living area). Then they should come up with a proposal. I don’t find it helpful to set a budget upfront. From my experience, budgets tend to get fully used that way. I also don’t want to base decisions mainly on budget but on personal needs. The maximum budget just sets the upper limit.
C
Chrisi190621 Apr 2020 06:47Attached is the floor plan from the designer. The house dimensions are now 13.05m x 9.80m (43ft x 32ft) with a knee wall height of 130cm (51 inches). On the ground floor, we have about 100sqm (1,076 sq ft), and the upper floor covers 92sqm (990 sq ft). I had the windows on the gable ends of the upper floor changed because the distance to the neighbor is quite small. Depending on the neighbor’s house, it ranges from 6 to a maximum of 10m (20 to 33 ft), so I find floor-to-ceiling windows impractical there.
Instead of a roof window in the hallway on the upper floor, the designer has now placed a small window on the ground floor by the staircase. This naturally lets less light into the hallway upstairs, but the window is much easier to clean and to open and close. YPG said I should make the window quite large. I still think it’s too small—what do you think?
In the attic, the children’s room and bedroom on the right side have been swapped. The designer gave the parents’ bedroom the larger space.
I would still discuss the kitchen and bathroom with a kitchen supplier or bathroom fitter.
The cloakroom should now be sufficient for 4 people, with storage space along the wall towards the living room, storage under the stairs, and space behind the guest bathroom.
The hallway area on the ground and upper floors now totals 24.64sqm (265 sq ft) and makes up 12.83% of the total living area.
I’m interested in your opinions. Are there any mistakes? Comments? Feedback?
Thank you very much!
Instead of a roof window in the hallway on the upper floor, the designer has now placed a small window on the ground floor by the staircase. This naturally lets less light into the hallway upstairs, but the window is much easier to clean and to open and close. YPG said I should make the window quite large. I still think it’s too small—what do you think?
In the attic, the children’s room and bedroom on the right side have been swapped. The designer gave the parents’ bedroom the larger space.
I would still discuss the kitchen and bathroom with a kitchen supplier or bathroom fitter.
The cloakroom should now be sufficient for 4 people, with storage space along the wall towards the living room, storage under the stairs, and space behind the guest bathroom.
The hallway area on the ground and upper floors now totals 24.64sqm (265 sq ft) and makes up 12.83% of the total living area.
I’m interested in your opinions. Are there any mistakes? Comments? Feedback?
Thank you very much!
Ground Floor:
I would plan the sofa against the wall facing the guest room and definitely add a window on the west side.
I would align the door to the living area (on the left) with the front door and the patio door. For this, consider making the living area door a sliding door that runs to the left along the hallway. This way, it can easily remain open without getting in the way. It could be an attractive glass door.
Between the dining area and kitchen, I would also plan a sliding door that slides downwards from the dining room side. This could make it possible to include a small island in the kitchen, which is difficult with the door placement, especially since the door will likely often be in the traffic path.
Upper Floor:
For the children’s bedrooms, I would probably add a skylight on the left or right side of each bed.
In the bathroom, possibly the same, and make the other window single-leaf, so that there might be space for a shower between the window and the wall next to the children’s room. I’m not a big fan of showers right next to the bathroom entrance.
Overall, I think the general layout works quite well as it is.
I would plan the sofa against the wall facing the guest room and definitely add a window on the west side.
I would align the door to the living area (on the left) with the front door and the patio door. For this, consider making the living area door a sliding door that runs to the left along the hallway. This way, it can easily remain open without getting in the way. It could be an attractive glass door.
Between the dining area and kitchen, I would also plan a sliding door that slides downwards from the dining room side. This could make it possible to include a small island in the kitchen, which is difficult with the door placement, especially since the door will likely often be in the traffic path.
Upper Floor:
For the children’s bedrooms, I would probably add a skylight on the left or right side of each bed.
In the bathroom, possibly the same, and make the other window single-leaf, so that there might be space for a shower between the window and the wall next to the children’s room. I’m not a big fan of showers right next to the bathroom entrance.
Overall, I think the general layout works quite well as it is.
Solid construction – somewhat old-fashioned in places and a bit wasteful here and there. For example, I would consider the bathroom to be very large.
I definitely wouldn’t let anyone reduce the lighting in the upstairs hallway. On the contrary, I would go all out. The sloped roof windows clean themselves with every rain. The tiny little thing on the ground floor, added by the planner, you can consider a joke. Let the sunlight in! When you then enter the nice, large hallway upstairs, you immediately feel good.
I definitely wouldn’t let anyone reduce the lighting in the upstairs hallway. On the contrary, I would go all out. The sloped roof windows clean themselves with every rain. The tiny little thing on the ground floor, added by the planner, you can consider a joke. Let the sunlight in! When you then enter the nice, large hallway upstairs, you immediately feel good.
Y
Ypsi aus NI21 Apr 2020 08:48Hello,
When I placed the stairway at the entrance door in my floor plan draft, it was rightly criticized that you always have to walk through the entrance’s dirt zone when going upstairs. Your situation is the same.
When I placed the stairway at the entrance door in my floor plan draft, it was rightly criticized that you always have to walk through the entrance’s dirt zone when going upstairs. Your situation is the same.
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