ᐅ Single-family house – 18,000 kWh in two years – what could be the issue?
Created on: 17 Aug 2020 16:38
T
titoz
Hello everyone,
I need to reach out to the forum because I would like to get your opinions and advice.
We (2 adults with 2 small children) have been living for two years in a single-family house with a self-contained apartment (Einliegerwohnung). This apartment has been rented out for one year (2 adults with a baby).
Our house is equipped with a ground source heat pump (Nibe 1245 PC). It provides hot water, heating, and passive cooling through the underfloor system.
The main electricity meter shows 18,000 kWh.
This seems extremely high to me, and I cannot figure out where such consumption could come from.
Could the meter from the energy supplier be faulty?
Could a device, for example the heat pump, refrigerator, stove, etc., be malfunctioning and therefore drawing more electricity?
I am still quite puzzled.
Best regards
I need to reach out to the forum because I would like to get your opinions and advice.
We (2 adults with 2 small children) have been living for two years in a single-family house with a self-contained apartment (Einliegerwohnung). This apartment has been rented out for one year (2 adults with a baby).
Our house is equipped with a ground source heat pump (Nibe 1245 PC). It provides hot water, heating, and passive cooling through the underfloor system.
The main electricity meter shows 18,000 kWh.
This seems extremely high to me, and I cannot figure out where such consumption could come from.
Could the meter from the energy supplier be faulty?
Could a device, for example the heat pump, refrigerator, stove, etc., be malfunctioning and therefore drawing more electricity?
I am still quite puzzled.
Best regards
I honestly don’t understand why you have to do all of this yourself … When I buy a car, I don’t adjust the engine myself either …
Do they not know any better, or are they just not interested? I can’t wrap my head around it …
With these settings, it’s not just about power consumption. With such frequent cycling, the system will break soon since it’s only designed for X starts, right?!
Do they not know any better, or are they just not interested? I can’t wrap my head around it …
With these settings, it’s not just about power consumption. With such frequent cycling, the system will break soon since it’s only designed for X starts, right?!
Snowy36 schrieb:
I really don’t understand why you have to do all of this yourself.Well, even with a car there are two options for driving it: either floor it and then slam on the brakes, or accelerate gently and coast to a stop.Ours was put back into operation after a fault by a heating technician, but he doesn’t know every adjustment option. He might understand some of the connections, but you have to do the fine-tuning yourself. Otherwise, the configured buffer is just too conservative and expensive.
T
T_im_Norden18 Aug 2020 18:28The first year was entirely heated with an electric heating element, so the energy consumption (AZ) is no surprise.
Just found your post in the other forum since we helped you
Two things: your heating curve is terrible—you have a flow temperature of 40°C (104°F) at minus 20°C (-4°F).
Also, be careful with the secondary apartment—you’re not allowed to shut off the electrical resistance heating, or do you have a very good understanding with the tenant?
Regarding the circulation pump, it empties your hot water storage tank by about 10°C (18°F) in 5 hours under normal operation. You can set it to the lowest setting and deactivate it at night using a timer switch.
You’ll get more info on that there.
Make sure to deal with the hydraulic balancing—it has to be done during winter.
You can set the heating limit temperature initially to 14°C (57°F), and later, if everything goes well, maybe even 12°C (54°F).
Then get an electrician to separate the two housing units and install a heat meter for both heating and hot water.
You can leave the heat pump on your meter to save money, but depending on the state or region, it might be worthwhile to have a separate meter. Here in Baden-Württemberg, it’s worth having a separate one.
Good luck!
Two things: your heating curve is terrible—you have a flow temperature of 40°C (104°F) at minus 20°C (-4°F).
Also, be careful with the secondary apartment—you’re not allowed to shut off the electrical resistance heating, or do you have a very good understanding with the tenant?
Regarding the circulation pump, it empties your hot water storage tank by about 10°C (18°F) in 5 hours under normal operation. You can set it to the lowest setting and deactivate it at night using a timer switch.
You’ll get more info on that there.
Make sure to deal with the hydraulic balancing—it has to be done during winter.
You can set the heating limit temperature initially to 14°C (57°F), and later, if everything goes well, maybe even 12°C (54°F).
Then get an electrician to separate the two housing units and install a heat meter for both heating and hot water.
You can leave the heat pump on your meter to save money, but depending on the state or region, it might be worthwhile to have a separate meter. Here in Baden-Württemberg, it’s worth having a separate one.
Good luck!
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