Hello everyone.
According to the builder, our floor-to-ceiling windows have been properly sealed from the INSIDE.
The exterior sealing is supposedly our responsibility...
How would you go about doing this?
There will be a fully covered terrace in front of all the windows... but I still think everything should be sealed correctly.
Or am I worrying unnecessarily?
According to the builder, our floor-to-ceiling windows have been properly sealed from the INSIDE.
The exterior sealing is supposedly our responsibility...
How would you go about doing this?
There will be a fully covered terrace in front of all the windows... but I still think everything should be sealed correctly.
Or am I worrying unnecessarily?
tumaa schrieb:
With material?With material...
Golfi90 schrieb:
With material...ok, good price .......the roofer told me that there needs to be at least 30cm (12 inches) of clearance, usually about the size of a facing brick, so I would be a bit cautious there.@tumaa @Golfi90 (and of course everyone else)
What has happened with your cases so far?
I have exactly the same problem.
Our friend who is a roofer pointed out to me that our doors are not sealed behind the facing brick.
After consulting with our general contractor and the window installer, we cut off about 4 cm (1.6 inches) from the bottom three bricks on both the right and left sides. This now places us behind the trim for the roller shutter. Then the base should be taped off, including all around the exposed ends of the cut bricks. After taping, a thick coat of bitumen-based waterproofing should be applied all around the house.
Not knowing better (and thinking the problem was solved), I asked our roofer to do the taping. He told me that my general contractor and window installer were basically clueless and that this wouldn’t help at all. According to him, there MUST be waterproofing behind the brick. As a result, he refuses to touch anything. The general contractor and window installer just shrug.
This is the wind-driven rain side of the house, without an overhang and a terrace in front.
I still don’t fully understand where water could get in if I tape the base, apply the membrane continuously in front of the brick, and then continue with bitumen?
I’ve read the PDF called “the forgotten connection” and now I understand what the problem is and where a gap forms.
With wind-driven rain, water has already penetrated here (since there is no waterproofing yet).
What I don’t understand is where water should come from if we waterproof reliably all around in front of the brick as described above.
What has happened with your cases so far?
I have exactly the same problem.
Our friend who is a roofer pointed out to me that our doors are not sealed behind the facing brick.
After consulting with our general contractor and the window installer, we cut off about 4 cm (1.6 inches) from the bottom three bricks on both the right and left sides. This now places us behind the trim for the roller shutter. Then the base should be taped off, including all around the exposed ends of the cut bricks. After taping, a thick coat of bitumen-based waterproofing should be applied all around the house.
Not knowing better (and thinking the problem was solved), I asked our roofer to do the taping. He told me that my general contractor and window installer were basically clueless and that this wouldn’t help at all. According to him, there MUST be waterproofing behind the brick. As a result, he refuses to touch anything. The general contractor and window installer just shrug.
This is the wind-driven rain side of the house, without an overhang and a terrace in front.
I still don’t fully understand where water could get in if I tape the base, apply the membrane continuously in front of the brick, and then continue with bitumen?
I’ve read the PDF called “the forgotten connection” and now I understand what the problem is and where a gap forms.
With wind-driven rain, water has already penetrated here (since there is no waterproofing yet).
What I don’t understand is where water should come from if we waterproof reliably all around in front of the brick as described above.
Some roofers also told me that a few bricks need to be removed, but for now, that’s not an option for me.
Alternatively, it’s possible to cut out some of the expanded polystyrene (EPS) since liquid-applied waterproofing doesn’t really adhere well to EPS. After that, the bricks at the base of the wall should be repointed, and then the entire area around the house should be fully sealed from the outside, I think using a dimpled membrane or something called a "reactivation."
I was told that everything can stay as it is for now, as long as the area remains exposed... I want to save money and do it properly in the end.
Alternatively, it’s possible to cut out some of the expanded polystyrene (EPS) since liquid-applied waterproofing doesn’t really adhere well to EPS. After that, the bricks at the base of the wall should be repointed, and then the entire area around the house should be fully sealed from the outside, I think using a dimpled membrane or something called a "reactivation."
I was told that everything can stay as it is for now, as long as the area remains exposed... I want to save money and do it properly in the end.
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