ᐅ Screw-on Transition Profiles for Vinyl Flooring Suitable for Underfloor Heating
Created on: 17 Apr 2020 12:28
J
julianpeHello everyone,
In our new single-family house, we want to cover the living areas on the upper floor with vinyl flooring. Now we have come to the topic of transition strips.
We have the expansion joint in the screed behind the door frame. I would like to install the base track of the transition strip here.
I did some research online and read that you should never screw a base track directly into the screed core if you are using underfloor heating.
The problem of potentially damaging the underfloor heating pipes seemed obvious to me. However, on the upper floor, the screed thickness is at least 7cm (2.8 inches). The pipes have a maximum diameter of 2cm (0.8 inches). The dowels/screws for the base profile are 22mm (0.9 inches) long. As long as I use a depth stop carefully, there should be no problem, right?
I also have photos of the installed pipes, so I can estimate where it is safe or not safe to drill.
Are there any other serious reasons against screwing in the base profile?
Thanks and best regards
julianpe
In our new single-family house, we want to cover the living areas on the upper floor with vinyl flooring. Now we have come to the topic of transition strips.
We have the expansion joint in the screed behind the door frame. I would like to install the base track of the transition strip here.
I did some research online and read that you should never screw a base track directly into the screed core if you are using underfloor heating.
The problem of potentially damaging the underfloor heating pipes seemed obvious to me. However, on the upper floor, the screed thickness is at least 7cm (2.8 inches). The pipes have a maximum diameter of 2cm (0.8 inches). The dowels/screws for the base profile are 22mm (0.9 inches) long. As long as I use a depth stop carefully, there should be no problem, right?
I also have photos of the installed pipes, so I can estimate where it is safe or not safe to drill.
Are there any other serious reasons against screwing in the base profile?
Thanks and best regards
julianpe
I bought aluminum strips without screw holes and applied a thick bead of silicone into the gap of the laminate flooring, then glued the profile onto it.
At first, I wanted to screw it in, but since the laminate expansion joint lines up exactly with the screed joint, there’s nothing solid to screw into there. So, I decided to glue it instead.
By the way, baseboards can also be very nicely glued with acrylic adhesive.
At first, I wanted to screw it in, but since the laminate expansion joint lines up exactly with the screed joint, there’s nothing solid to screw into there. So, I decided to glue it instead.
By the way, baseboards can also be very nicely glued with acrylic adhesive.
The main issue is that when drilling, the screed edge at the expansion joint will break off. This is not a problem for the screed itself or structurally, but you will never get an anchor to hold in that "hole." I glued the base rails to the screed using professional mounting adhesive, and that holds perfectly.
MayrCh schrieb:
The problem is more that when drilling, the screed edge at the expansion joint will break off. This is not an issue for the screed itself or structurally, but a plug will never hold in that "hole." I glued the base rails to the screed using professional mounting adhesive, and that holds perfectly.Which product can you recommend? Do you have a photo of the installation?
julianpe schrieb:
Which product would you recommend? We had several cartridges of "Soudal Montagepro 140" available.
julianpe schrieb:
Do you have a photo of the installation? Not really. Clean the rail, clean the screed, apply a bead of adhesive to the rail, position it, align it, weigh it down with something, and leave it overnight—done.
Similar topics