ᐅ Screed installed three days ago and still damp?

Also, it looks pretty neat from the photos, doesn’t it?
Do you have a poor level of trust with your construction company? Otherwise, I would trust that they know what they’re doing and when. After all, they are responsible for the warranty on the project.
My biggest concern would probably be mold if it’s still too damp. The screed should be load-bearing after 2 weeks.

Bauherrin123 schrieb:

If I wanted to separate the toilet from the sink with a partition wall, it would have had to be done before the screed was laid.

But we don’t have that. It’s about the cladding, so to speak.

And what do you think… are drywall partitions that are permanently installed before the screed is poured somehow protected differently against moisture than drywall cladding installed later (in two or three rooms)? 😉 😉

In my case, all drywall partitions (in a renovated older building) that were meant to be permanent were installed BEFORE the screed, including their cladding. About 14 days later, my landlord started on the remaining drywall work. I have been living in this kind of renovated apartment since 2011 without any mold issues.

I would be much more concerned about the window reveals. The lower one should ideally be vertical, and the upper one horizontal. Otherwise, poor air circulation can lead to condensation forming on the window.

Oh dear... there is a lot of half-knowledge being spread here. Drywall in bathrooms is done with moisture-resistant boards, which handle dampness from the screed much better than regular boards. Installing drywall on screed is completely normal, and in renovations of older buildings, it is often the most practical solution. This method is also common in office spaces because it allows flexibility in room usage. The profiles don’t have to be screwed into the screed; they can be glued instead.

As for the question of when exactly gypsum drywall molds, I will refrain from answering due to lack of expertise 😉

Bauherrin123 schrieb:

Honestly, I hadn’t really thought about the weights.

You don’t have to. The insulation under the screed has a load-bearing capacity of 10t/m² (2,046 lbs/ft²). You’d need to install something heavier than tiles and a washbasin for that to be an issue.

Gypsum itself cannot develop mold. In the case of drywall, the paper facing can of course mold, but it initially contains a lot of fungicides. Mold is generally not an issue for gypsum during the construction phase (unless it lasts for a very long time). Later, when dust and other organic particles accumulate, mold can become a concern under constant moisture conditions.

Gypsum can handle moisture quite well. It is highly absorbent and dries out quickly (by the way, better than lime-cement). This applies when there are dry periods, which is the key issue with drywall or gypsum plaster. Under continuous moisture exposure, it loses its stability. It can actually dissolve significantly. This is unfortunate and also affects its load-bearing capacity over time. So when people say gypsum does not like too much moisture, they mainly mean the duration of moisture exposure, less so the amount (eventually, excessive moisture will also be a problem, but typically not in normal construction projects).

In other words, yes, if there are drying phases after the wet period, it generally isn’t a problem. The question is what kind of paint the painter will use. If someone uses dispersion paint, the moisture may become trapped inside the drywall, and since dispersion paint is organic, it again poses a risk of mold.

So drywall is probably fine, but I would recommend painting only after functional heating (or even after full drying and maturing of the building).

Good luck!