Hello everyone, I would like to do some of the work myself (preparation for façade renovation) by removing my old 5 cm (2 inch) EPS insulation, which is plastered and embedded in an old "Hasen?" metal mesh. Has anyone done something like this before? Which tools are best suited for this? The wall underneath is brick, so I find an angle grinder or rotary hammer too risky. Maybe an angle grinder with a steel or wire brush? Thanks and best regards
In der Ruine22 Mar 2023 08:44What speaks against insulation with mineral wool? It should conform to the irregularities.
The issue with mineral wool is how it behaves when exposed to moisture, which can occur occasionally. Wood wool dries better, is more ecological (since it is produced locally, about 30 meters (100 feet) away), and provides slightly better insulation in summer. I think I should have chosen blown-in insulation. The carpenter doesn’t do that, and I only removed a small section of the facade for inspection. Only now, with more removed, can you see the masonry. I could already start plastering, but I would need scaffolding earlier.
I entered it into Ubakus, and a 1cm (0.4 inch) air gap does not cause condensation. From a building physics perspective, I believe it is less problematic than aligning the vertical battens. The carpenter says they tend to twist. So, it looks like plastering is necessary after all. The question is what material to use and whether it needs to be reinforced with such a thin layer. Sack cement?
I am wondering whether Sakret (just to clarify, this is not an advertisement, simply what is available at Obi) lime-cement plaster or MAP-L lightweight lime-cement plaster is more suitable. Obi also offers Laier lime-cement plaster. It should be vapor-permeable, stable, and adhere well. There are two versions: standard and lightweight. Does anyone know the differences?
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