Hello everyone,
We have a dark, closed stringer staircase made of wood in our house (built in 1978) that has aged quite a bit and needs some refurbishment. The building specification states that it has a hardwood surface with a clear lacquer.
Since the stairway is relatively small and dark, we would like to have a lighter staircase. The plan is to sand the entire staircase down (first with a coarser grit, then finer, maybe 80 -> 120 grit?), then paint it (possibly with an intermediate sanding) in white or gray (perhaps combined).
Now I’m wondering which type of paint I should use and whether a primer is necessary. Stairs mats will be placed on the steps later, but the paint should still be quite durable. I have read about 2-component (2K) paint.
The problem is that the upper floor is in use, so ideally the staircase should be walkable without shoes at the end of each day, meaning the paint should have a relatively short drying time.
Could you please give me recommendations and tips? Has anyone done something similar and can share their experience?
I would appreciate any help!
We have a dark, closed stringer staircase made of wood in our house (built in 1978) that has aged quite a bit and needs some refurbishment. The building specification states that it has a hardwood surface with a clear lacquer.
Since the stairway is relatively small and dark, we would like to have a lighter staircase. The plan is to sand the entire staircase down (first with a coarser grit, then finer, maybe 80 -> 120 grit?), then paint it (possibly with an intermediate sanding) in white or gray (perhaps combined).
Now I’m wondering which type of paint I should use and whether a primer is necessary. Stairs mats will be placed on the steps later, but the paint should still be quite durable. I have read about 2-component (2K) paint.
The problem is that the upper floor is in use, so ideally the staircase should be walkable without shoes at the end of each day, meaning the paint should have a relatively short drying time.
Could you please give me recommendations and tips? Has anyone done something similar and can share their experience?
I would appreciate any help!
Insulation is important with white, because softwood, for example, exudes resin and can bleed through.
In your case, it can be neglected. Primers are basically thinned paints. You can thin paint to create a primer. A thinned paint penetrates the substrate very well and grips firmly. If you then paint over this thin layer with the same solvent, the paint will adhere very well and also provide good coverage.
In your case, it can be neglected. Primers are basically thinned paints. You can thin paint to create a primer. A thinned paint penetrates the substrate very well and grips firmly. If you then paint over this thin layer with the same solvent, the paint will adhere very well and also provide good coverage.
M
mensch1237 Nov 2018 13:44Thank you for the explanation.
What about solvent-free coatings then? Or should I avoid solvent-free options due to impact resistance or similar issues?
What about solvent-free coatings then? Or should I avoid solvent-free options due to impact resistance or similar issues?
There is always some kind of solvent involved; otherwise, it wouldn’t be liquid. Water, acrylic dispersion, or in the case of PU paints, probably nitrocellulose, alkyd resin turpentine, or something similar. For two-component paints, xylene is used.
Once the solvent has evaporated, the paint has cured and no longer poses any risk. Until then, inhaling the solvent fumes may not be entirely healthy.
Once the solvent has evaporated, the paint has cured and no longer poses any risk. Until then, inhaling the solvent fumes may not be entirely healthy.