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mensch1235 Nov 2018 22:07Hello everyone,
We have a dark, closed stringer staircase made of wood in our house (built in 1978) that has aged quite a bit and needs some refurbishment. The building specification states that it has a hardwood surface with a clear lacquer.
Since the stairway is relatively small and dark, we would like to have a lighter staircase. The plan is to sand the entire staircase down (first with a coarser grit, then finer, maybe 80 -> 120 grit?), then paint it (possibly with an intermediate sanding) in white or gray (perhaps combined).
Now I’m wondering which type of paint I should use and whether a primer is necessary. Stairs mats will be placed on the steps later, but the paint should still be quite durable. I have read about 2-component (2K) paint.
The problem is that the upper floor is in use, so ideally the staircase should be walkable without shoes at the end of each day, meaning the paint should have a relatively short drying time.
Could you please give me recommendations and tips? Has anyone done something similar and can share their experience?
I would appreciate any help!
We have a dark, closed stringer staircase made of wood in our house (built in 1978) that has aged quite a bit and needs some refurbishment. The building specification states that it has a hardwood surface with a clear lacquer.
Since the stairway is relatively small and dark, we would like to have a lighter staircase. The plan is to sand the entire staircase down (first with a coarser grit, then finer, maybe 80 -> 120 grit?), then paint it (possibly with an intermediate sanding) in white or gray (perhaps combined).
Now I’m wondering which type of paint I should use and whether a primer is necessary. Stairs mats will be placed on the steps later, but the paint should still be quite durable. I have read about 2-component (2K) paint.
The problem is that the upper floor is in use, so ideally the staircase should be walkable without shoes at the end of each day, meaning the paint should have a relatively short drying time.
Could you please give me recommendations and tips? Has anyone done something similar and can share their experience?
I would appreciate any help!
After thorough sanding and, if necessary, scraping with the triangular scraper, only acrylic lacquer meets your requirements because it dries quickly enough. Unfortunately, these lacquers are not very abrasion-resistant. Urethane paint would be better, but as mentioned, the drying time is an issue. Two-component (2K) coatings only work on plywood. Solid wood expands and contracts slightly, and 2K coatings will crack because they become rigid and very hard. Single-component (1K) paints remain somewhat flexible and can accommodate wood movement. For the primer, use the chosen lacquer thinned well. I won’t recommend a specific product—brands like Sto, Sikkens, Herbol, Maleco, etc. all know how to do it.
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mensch1236 Nov 2018 09:56Thank you in advance for your answers!
From what I currently understand, the staircase is veneered rather than made of solid wood. The house specification states "fine wood surface with clear coating," but I can check again for more details. Since I can see what appears to be particleboard on the underside of the risers, I assume it is a veneered staircase. I can also take a photo when I get the chance. Does this change anything regarding the choice of lacquer?
That was exactly the idea I had as well, and it would be possible. Are there any disadvantages to this approach besides the longer working time?
Nordlys schrieb:
After thorough sanding and, if necessary, scraping with a triangular scraper, acrylic lacquer is the only option for your requirements because it dries fast enough. Unfortunately, these lacquers are not the most abrasion-resistant. Urethane paint would be better, but as mentioned... the drying time. Two-component coatings only work on plywood. Solid wood expands and contracts slightly, and two-component coatings will crack because they become rigid and very hard. One-component paints remain somewhat flexible and therefore accommodate wood movement. For the primer, use the chosen lacquer well diluted. I won’t recommend specific products; all manufacturers like Sto, Sikkens, Herbol, Maleco, etc., know how to do it.
From what I currently understand, the staircase is veneered rather than made of solid wood. The house specification states "fine wood surface with clear coating," but I can check again for more details. Since I can see what appears to be particleboard on the underside of the risers, I assume it is a veneered staircase. I can also take a photo when I get the chance. Does this change anything regarding the choice of lacquer?
Maria16 schrieb:
Would you be able to step on every other tread? So no children, physically limited persons, etc., allowing you to work alternately on the steps and thus have longer drying times?
That was exactly the idea I had as well, and it would be possible. Are there any disadvantages to this approach besides the longer working time?
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mensch1236 Nov 2018 20:13So it seems that PU varnish is the best option (provided we manage the issue with drying time, for example by alternating every other step).
What about the primer and the intermediate coat when using PU varnish from Caparol (e.g., Capacryl PU-Satin or Capalac Aqua PU-Alkyd)? The application guidelines specifically recommend certain products here (Capacryl Holz-IsoGrund and Capacryl PU-Vorlack). Does this make sense or is it just marketing?
I will drop by a specialist retailer when I get the chance.
What about the primer and the intermediate coat when using PU varnish from Caparol (e.g., Capacryl PU-Satin or Capalac Aqua PU-Alkyd)? The application guidelines specifically recommend certain products here (Capacryl Holz-IsoGrund and Capacryl PU-Vorlack). Does this make sense or is it just marketing?
I will drop by a specialist retailer when I get the chance.
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