Hello
We are currently building with a developer and will have a roof window installed.
We want to retrofit a roof window blind later (which the developer does not offer).
All of our shutters are electrically operated with wall switches.
My question is: What is the best way to connect the roof window blind?
Our roof window will be Roto, so we should use the Roto roof window blind.
Should it be solar-powered with remote control or electric with a wired power connection and a wall switch?
Our electrician only wants to install the power connection in a junction box under the insulation and sealing. This means that later the insulation and sealing would have to be cut open to pull out the cable and then resealed.
This resealing would probably create a weak spot in the roof.
Solar:
Advantage: no need for a power connection and no need to cut through the roofing membrane.
Disadvantage: you are limited to the remote control and cannot integrate it into smart home systems.
How does the solar function work? Does the battery get enough power constantly (the roof window is on the north side)?
Electric:
Advantage: always has power, can be connected to the same switches as the other shutters, and can easily be integrated into smart home systems with flush-mounted actuators.
Disadvantage: the power cable must be routed through the roofing membrane.
My question is, what would you recommend?
Does anyone know how to restore the roofing membrane to 100% watertight after installation?
We are currently building with a developer and will have a roof window installed.
We want to retrofit a roof window blind later (which the developer does not offer).
All of our shutters are electrically operated with wall switches.
My question is: What is the best way to connect the roof window blind?
Our roof window will be Roto, so we should use the Roto roof window blind.
Should it be solar-powered with remote control or electric with a wired power connection and a wall switch?
Our electrician only wants to install the power connection in a junction box under the insulation and sealing. This means that later the insulation and sealing would have to be cut open to pull out the cable and then resealed.
This resealing would probably create a weak spot in the roof.
Solar:
Advantage: no need for a power connection and no need to cut through the roofing membrane.
Disadvantage: you are limited to the remote control and cannot integrate it into smart home systems.
How does the solar function work? Does the battery get enough power constantly (the roof window is on the north side)?
Electric:
Advantage: always has power, can be connected to the same switches as the other shutters, and can easily be integrated into smart home systems with flush-mounted actuators.
Disadvantage: the power cable must be routed through the roofing membrane.
My question is, what would you recommend?
Does anyone know how to restore the roofing membrane to 100% watertight after installation?
We have found a satellite system installer for us.
He would also route the four satellite cables through the sealed roof membrane. He says it is not a problem for him (he is basically half roofer) to cut the roof membrane and reseal it.
He would reseal the roof membrane with duct tape. Is this the correct method to reseal a cut roof membrane?
He would also route the four satellite cables through the sealed roof membrane. He says it is not a problem for him (he is basically half roofer) to cut the roof membrane and reseal it.
He would reseal the roof membrane with duct tape. Is this the correct method to reseal a cut roof membrane?
B
borderpuschl8 Sep 2022 13:51Panzerpand is certainly not the right solution. I know many people only use adhesive tapes (e.g., Siga) for this. The proper and correct solution is with special cable glands or penetrations, as already shown.
You can also install the junction box in the ceiling of the sloped roof and close it with a blank cover. What would that look like?
If you are working with recessed spotlights in the ceiling, another option would be to install just a junction box (e.g., Hensel) at the end of the cable in the ceiling (without fixing the cable). This way, you can always access the junction box through the holes of the recessed spotlights.
You can also install the junction box in the ceiling of the sloped roof and close it with a blank cover. What would that look like?
If you are working with recessed spotlights in the ceiling, another option would be to install just a junction box (e.g., Hensel) at the end of the cable in the ceiling (without fixing the cable). This way, you can always access the junction box through the holes of the recessed spotlights.
So, can we say that the satellite installer ("doesn’t know anything about sealing?") should definitely handle the cable penetrations properly? Should we insist that the satellite installer takes care of the cable penetrations, or should we look for someone else?
Will photovoltaic systems also use such cable penetrations later on?
The solution to retrofit the shutters should be simple to avoid any complications during installation. I actually liked the idea of having the cable right next to the window, so in the worst case, you can access it from inside.
In the end, it just needs to work well and the roof must be watertight.
Will photovoltaic systems also use such cable penetrations later on?
borderpuschl schrieb:Honestly, after installing the roof window blind, I would just wallpaper right over the blanking plate. Do you even need to access the socket again if everything is connected correctly?
You can also install the socket in the ceiling on the sloped roof and cover it with a blanking plate? What does that look like?
The solution to retrofit the shutters should be simple to avoid any complications during installation. I actually liked the idea of having the cable right next to the window, so in the worst case, you can access it from inside.
In the end, it just needs to work well and the roof must be watertight.
B
borderpuschl8 Sep 2022 14:26Sealing is not part of his expertise, so I wouldn’t dismiss the plumber right away. This is just how he always does it; in most cases, no one really cares. He simply doesn’t use any grommets because he doesn’t have them. A grommet costs about €2 (today, however, prices are a bit higher). Just order a few yourself and provide them to the plumber. It will cost you around €20.
Sealing with adhesive tapes is also possible, but it’s not a proper solution. If it’s done in an emergency (because no grommet is available or it’s not possible to use one), then it should be done with the right adhesive tapes.
You can, of course, install the box in the roof and then cover it with wallpaper. Normally, you won’t need to access it again, as the lifespan of roller shutter motors is quite good (they don’t like rapid acceleration or freezing solid). However, you will always see the outline of the cover plate, even if you recess it (there is a special tool for this). I would handle this differently in a new build.
Sealing with adhesive tapes is also possible, but it’s not a proper solution. If it’s done in an emergency (because no grommet is available or it’s not possible to use one), then it should be done with the right adhesive tapes.
You can, of course, install the box in the roof and then cover it with wallpaper. Normally, you won’t need to access it again, as the lifespan of roller shutter motors is quite good (they don’t like rapid acceleration or freezing solid). However, you will always see the outline of the cover plate, even if you recess it (there is a special tool for this). I would handle this differently in a new build.
He must also be able to use the cable gland properly.
If he has never done it this way before, then his solution is probably better (since he is experienced with it).
Could you explain your solution again on how to do it optimally? Without much effort, so that anyone can basically do it?
If he has never done it this way before, then his solution is probably better (since he is experienced with it).
Could you explain your solution again on how to do it optimally? Without much effort, so that anyone can basically do it?
The optimal solution was mentioned above. Attaching an adhesive sleeve to a cable is really not complicated. We, as non-professionals, have already done this several times in our house without any issues. Duct tape is not suitable for this purpose.
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