ᐅ Laying Rigidur Panels on Rigidur Boards – What Is the Best Approach?
Created on: 10 Aug 2023 11:58
F
Finch039Hi everyone,
Here is the starting situation: a wooden beam ceiling. The spaces between the beams were lined with a draft barrier and filled with dry fill up to the top edge of the beams, and in some places even above the beams, to level the heights. The installation was quite complicated, with twisted beams, varying distances (sometimes 50 cm (20 inches), sometimes 60 cm (24 inches), sometimes somewhere in between), ... so in the end it would have been better to have a professional do the job. Or I could have just screwed 22 mm (7/8 inch) OSB panels directly to the beams. Oh well...
After laying the Rigidur dry screed panels (with 10 mm (3/8 inch) wood fiber insulation boards on top of the fill, tongue and groove joints glued and screwed), it’s noticeable that the screed still flexes slightly in some spots — estimated about 2 mm (3/32 inch). Only very locally.
Obviously, there is an installation error, or perhaps the fill has found its way into some gaps, or other issues. The best and most sustainable solution would be to remove the entire floor and redo everything — I’m aware of that. For various reasons, this isn’t possible right now, and as mentioned, the floor only flexes “slightly” at two isolated points. Still, it doesn’t give me peace of mind, so I want to add another 10 mm (3/8 inch) of Rigidur on top — the ceiling height allows for this.
To ensure the highest possible stability, I plan to lay the new 10 mm (3/8 inch) panels crosswise to the existing installation direction, selectively glue them, and fasten them to the existing 20 mm (3/4 inch) Rigidur with drywall screws. This would result in a total of 30 mm (1 3/16 inch) dry screed on top of 10 mm (3/8 inch) wood fiber insulation, installed as a floating floor. Do you see any downsides to this approach? Do you have any recommendations for a better installation method?
Here is the starting situation: a wooden beam ceiling. The spaces between the beams were lined with a draft barrier and filled with dry fill up to the top edge of the beams, and in some places even above the beams, to level the heights. The installation was quite complicated, with twisted beams, varying distances (sometimes 50 cm (20 inches), sometimes 60 cm (24 inches), sometimes somewhere in between), ... so in the end it would have been better to have a professional do the job. Or I could have just screwed 22 mm (7/8 inch) OSB panels directly to the beams. Oh well...
After laying the Rigidur dry screed panels (with 10 mm (3/8 inch) wood fiber insulation boards on top of the fill, tongue and groove joints glued and screwed), it’s noticeable that the screed still flexes slightly in some spots — estimated about 2 mm (3/32 inch). Only very locally.
Obviously, there is an installation error, or perhaps the fill has found its way into some gaps, or other issues. The best and most sustainable solution would be to remove the entire floor and redo everything — I’m aware of that. For various reasons, this isn’t possible right now, and as mentioned, the floor only flexes “slightly” at two isolated points. Still, it doesn’t give me peace of mind, so I want to add another 10 mm (3/8 inch) of Rigidur on top — the ceiling height allows for this.
To ensure the highest possible stability, I plan to lay the new 10 mm (3/8 inch) panels crosswise to the existing installation direction, selectively glue them, and fasten them to the existing 20 mm (3/4 inch) Rigidur with drywall screws. This would result in a total of 30 mm (1 3/16 inch) dry screed on top of 10 mm (3/8 inch) wood fiber insulation, installed as a floating floor. Do you see any downsides to this approach? Do you have any recommendations for a better installation method?