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Aigner23111 Jan 2021 17:06Hello everyone,
My name is Paul, and I am new to this forum. I’m not sure if my question fits here, but I’d like to ask it anyway:
I am dealing with a roughly 60-year-old former car and agricultural machinery workshop that, despite being out of use for a long time, is still mainly used for private purposes. Over the years, the interior plaster has started to deteriorate due to various renovations. There are holes and different types of damage left behind. Now a small “restoration” is planned.
The issue is that I have specific ideas about how the work should be done. I want to do the painting and plastering myself and only renew the plaster where it is damaged. Therefore, the new plastered areas should look exactly like the old ones. Ideally, it should be barely noticeable where the old ends and the new begins. I can provide pictures if needed. The plaster is as old as the workshop and is smooth but, so to speak, roughly or unevenly applied. Nowadays, houses are usually plastered rough and evenly, but I don’t want that.
I realize some might find this unusual since it’s not a residential building, but the workshop is meant to become a bit of a showpiece again. Since the electrical system and the roof have already been renewed, the walls should also look nice and, most importantly, as they did before.
I would like to know which cement is best suited for smooth walls like this.
I hope I have expressed myself clearly and understandably.
I would appreciate any replies.
Best regards, Paul
My name is Paul, and I am new to this forum. I’m not sure if my question fits here, but I’d like to ask it anyway:
I am dealing with a roughly 60-year-old former car and agricultural machinery workshop that, despite being out of use for a long time, is still mainly used for private purposes. Over the years, the interior plaster has started to deteriorate due to various renovations. There are holes and different types of damage left behind. Now a small “restoration” is planned.
The issue is that I have specific ideas about how the work should be done. I want to do the painting and plastering myself and only renew the plaster where it is damaged. Therefore, the new plastered areas should look exactly like the old ones. Ideally, it should be barely noticeable where the old ends and the new begins. I can provide pictures if needed. The plaster is as old as the workshop and is smooth but, so to speak, roughly or unevenly applied. Nowadays, houses are usually plastered rough and evenly, but I don’t want that.
I realize some might find this unusual since it’s not a residential building, but the workshop is meant to become a bit of a showpiece again. Since the electrical system and the roof have already been renewed, the walls should also look nice and, most importantly, as they did before.
I would like to know which cement is best suited for smooth walls like this.
I hope I have expressed myself clearly and understandably.
I would appreciate any replies.
Best regards, Paul
H
HilfeHilfe12 Jan 2021 06:09Hi, sure, why not. A small outbuilding is ideal for testing your skills. Only one statement makes me suspicious: you just want to do some patching, but there should be no visible difference compared to the old plaster. I would apply a full base coat and level out the unevenness. Then paint over it. Anything else will just make things worse.
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fach1werk12 Jan 2021 17:50Hello Paul,
For determining the material, take a small fallen chip with you to the plasterer or let one fall off—not too tiny. Repairs are always visible. And if the layer is applied too thinly over the joints, these spots are prone to defects. What hilfehilfe says is correct. Fill any holes below the overall surface level, maybe apply some silica primer to the wall depending on the material, then apply the topcoat evenly from wall to wall. You don’t necessarily have to spray it on; applying it manually could be enough. Just make sure not to go below the minimum thickness stated on the bag. I would definitely look for any loose areas and remove generously down to solid material. However, these are experiences from working on historical buildings.
Best regards,
Gabriele
For determining the material, take a small fallen chip with you to the plasterer or let one fall off—not too tiny. Repairs are always visible. And if the layer is applied too thinly over the joints, these spots are prone to defects. What hilfehilfe says is correct. Fill any holes below the overall surface level, maybe apply some silica primer to the wall depending on the material, then apply the topcoat evenly from wall to wall. You don’t necessarily have to spray it on; applying it manually could be enough. Just make sure not to go below the minimum thickness stated on the bag. I would definitely look for any loose areas and remove generously down to solid material. However, these are experiences from working on historical buildings.
Best regards,
Gabriele
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