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GrauerWolf4911 Feb 2023 13:11Hello,
I have a living room of about 35 m² (375 sq ft). There was a rubber mat placed in front of the balcony door.
Where the mat was, the floor has turned black.
My question is: can I sand and refinish just the affected area of about 1 m² (11 sq ft), or does the entire floor need to be sanded again?
I assume that if only part of the floor is refinished, there might be visible edges between the old and new finish.
Is there another way to restore some shine to the floor?
I would appreciate any helpful information.
Best regards
I have a living room of about 35 m² (375 sq ft). There was a rubber mat placed in front of the balcony door.
Where the mat was, the floor has turned black.
My question is: can I sand and refinish just the affected area of about 1 m² (11 sq ft), or does the entire floor need to be sanded again?
I assume that if only part of the floor is refinished, there might be visible edges between the old and new finish.
Is there another way to restore some shine to the floor?
I would appreciate any helpful information.
Best regards
Welcome to the forum,
I’m tagging @KlaRa here.
With real hardwood parquet, the rubber mat might have seeped into the wood pores, which can be 1–3cm (0.4–1.2 inches) deep—that would be unfortunate.
The rubber mat can also stick to the varnish, which can be removed mechanically (scrubbing, melamine sponge would be my first attempts).
Try this at a corner where a decoration might be placed later.
I’m tagging @KlaRa here.
With real hardwood parquet, the rubber mat might have seeped into the wood pores, which can be 1–3cm (0.4–1.2 inches) deep—that would be unfortunate.
The rubber mat can also stick to the varnish, which can be removed mechanically (scrubbing, melamine sponge would be my first attempts).
Try this at a corner where a decoration might be placed later.
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Buschreiter11 Feb 2023 14:08We had the same issue; the floor needed to be completely sanded and sealed. Price was about 45-50€ per square meter (approximately 4.20-4.65 USD per square foot). No mess, and the hardwood looked like new.
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xMisterDx12 Feb 2023 21:42Sanding off a part is not really an option, mainly because you would end up with a 1-2mm (0.04-0.08 inch) step that would also stand out in color.
In our old apartment with wooden floorboards, I also had a rubber mat under a piece of exercise equipment. As another user mentioned, you could rub it off. Try that first. But don’t use a "magic eraser" or anything like that.
In our old apartment with wooden floorboards, I also had a rubber mat under a piece of exercise equipment. As another user mentioned, you could rub it off. Try that first. But don’t use a "magic eraser" or anything like that.
[ Hilferuf gehört 😉 ]
It is probably as described in two previous posts!
The main question is how deeply the coloring substances have penetrated into the wood pores. This determines the possible correction methods.
It may be that an interaction occurred between the back of the mat or its plasticizers and the parquet sealant.
This would be the favorable case, as it could be easily sanded off. This would result in a barely noticeable indentation that can be neglected.
So take a 120-grit sandpaper and try, in a small area only (!), to gently sand off the sealant with light circular movements.
After a few sanding strokes, you can already see whether the coloring substances are only in the sealant or have penetrated into the wood surface.
If yes: also remove the affected sealant from the area and then reseal with a clear coat spray (matte finish).
Here, it is important to first protect the surrounding parquet area around the "damage spot" from spray mist (use newspaper sheets fixed with tape). The spray must be applied multiple times, each time in very small amounts ("homeopathic doses").
Better to apply 5 light, short bursts in a circular motion than to apply the entire amount all at once!! That won’t work!
Before use, the spray can should be briefly sprayed outdoors to ensure a fine mist and to avoid drops of the lacquer hitting the parquet surface concentrated during the first application.
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If the coloring substances have already penetrated deeper into the wood, a larger connected area must be sanded and resealed. The transitions between old and new will always remain visible if the parquet is only locally repaired, unless the entire floor is renovated.
Based on this example, it is easy to see that an oiled or waxed parquet surface is somewhat more demanding to maintain in regular cleaning than a sealed surface, but in renovation cases (like this one), this type of surface protection clearly has advantages over a sealed finish!!
----------------
Good luck: KlaRa
It is probably as described in two previous posts!
The main question is how deeply the coloring substances have penetrated into the wood pores. This determines the possible correction methods.
It may be that an interaction occurred between the back of the mat or its plasticizers and the parquet sealant.
This would be the favorable case, as it could be easily sanded off. This would result in a barely noticeable indentation that can be neglected.
So take a 120-grit sandpaper and try, in a small area only (!), to gently sand off the sealant with light circular movements.
After a few sanding strokes, you can already see whether the coloring substances are only in the sealant or have penetrated into the wood surface.
If yes: also remove the affected sealant from the area and then reseal with a clear coat spray (matte finish).
Here, it is important to first protect the surrounding parquet area around the "damage spot" from spray mist (use newspaper sheets fixed with tape). The spray must be applied multiple times, each time in very small amounts ("homeopathic doses").
Better to apply 5 light, short bursts in a circular motion than to apply the entire amount all at once!! That won’t work!
Before use, the spray can should be briefly sprayed outdoors to ensure a fine mist and to avoid drops of the lacquer hitting the parquet surface concentrated during the first application.
-----------
If the coloring substances have already penetrated deeper into the wood, a larger connected area must be sanded and resealed. The transitions between old and new will always remain visible if the parquet is only locally repaired, unless the entire floor is renovated.
Based on this example, it is easy to see that an oiled or waxed parquet surface is somewhat more demanding to maintain in regular cleaning than a sealed surface, but in renovation cases (like this one), this type of surface protection clearly has advantages over a sealed finish!!
----------------
Good luck: KlaRa
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