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Speedy198515 Nov 2015 10:11Hello everyone,
My girlfriend and I (no children yet) are currently facing the decision of taking over her grandmother's house, renovating it, and then living in it. At the moment, we have many thoughts but find it difficult to assess what can realistically be done and ultimately what makes economic sense. I want to use this post for brainstorming ideas...
About the house: It is a single-family house built in 1965, constructed solidly. According to an expert report, the condition is good. The roof was completely redone and insulated a few years ago after severe hail damage (unfortunately, we do not know how well the insulation was done). Some windows have already been replaced. The heating system (oil) is still functioning but will probably need to be replaced eventually. However, a gas connection is already available in the basement. There is also a slightly damp wall in the basement, which is probably due to the lack of external drainage.
Attached you will find the floor plans for the basement and the ground floor. The attic is already converted but in a very basic way.
Now, here are the questions:
1.) What should be done immediately in a house like this? We assume that at least the remaining windows, the entire electrical system, all the flooring, some of the ceilings, the bathroom including the guest toilet, the kitchen, the front door, and of course the missing external drainage need to be redone right away. We are unsure about the interior doors, the heating system, all the plumbing for heating and water/sewage, and the external insulation. What must or should be done immediately here? If the pipes need to be replaced, it probably makes sense to do it at the same time. But is it really necessary?
2.) Room layout: We have some concerns about the ground floor. For example, the bathroom is too small and does not have a toilet. The question is how to use the room in front of it (which is actually not a separate room but more like a hallway) for this purpose? Also, we do not like how the dining room and living room are separated by load-bearing walls, and we would like to remove them, possibly including the section of the hallway, to create more space. The large hallway feels like wasted living area to us. What can be done here and how complicated would it be?
4.) We are quite sure that we won’t get very far without an architect. Although I am probably handy, I lack experience and am also limited by a full-time job. 🙂 Do you also think that hiring an architect makes sense in this case? Does anyone happen to know a competent professional in the Reutlingen area?
I know these are many questions and some background information is probably missing. Still, I appreciate every tip, advice, and experience you can share.
Best regards,
Michael
My girlfriend and I (no children yet) are currently facing the decision of taking over her grandmother's house, renovating it, and then living in it. At the moment, we have many thoughts but find it difficult to assess what can realistically be done and ultimately what makes economic sense. I want to use this post for brainstorming ideas...
About the house: It is a single-family house built in 1965, constructed solidly. According to an expert report, the condition is good. The roof was completely redone and insulated a few years ago after severe hail damage (unfortunately, we do not know how well the insulation was done). Some windows have already been replaced. The heating system (oil) is still functioning but will probably need to be replaced eventually. However, a gas connection is already available in the basement. There is also a slightly damp wall in the basement, which is probably due to the lack of external drainage.
Attached you will find the floor plans for the basement and the ground floor. The attic is already converted but in a very basic way.
Now, here are the questions:
1.) What should be done immediately in a house like this? We assume that at least the remaining windows, the entire electrical system, all the flooring, some of the ceilings, the bathroom including the guest toilet, the kitchen, the front door, and of course the missing external drainage need to be redone right away. We are unsure about the interior doors, the heating system, all the plumbing for heating and water/sewage, and the external insulation. What must or should be done immediately here? If the pipes need to be replaced, it probably makes sense to do it at the same time. But is it really necessary?
2.) Room layout: We have some concerns about the ground floor. For example, the bathroom is too small and does not have a toilet. The question is how to use the room in front of it (which is actually not a separate room but more like a hallway) for this purpose? Also, we do not like how the dining room and living room are separated by load-bearing walls, and we would like to remove them, possibly including the section of the hallway, to create more space. The large hallway feels like wasted living area to us. What can be done here and how complicated would it be?
4.) We are quite sure that we won’t get very far without an architect. Although I am probably handy, I lack experience and am also limited by a full-time job. 🙂 Do you also think that hiring an architect makes sense in this case? Does anyone happen to know a competent professional in the Reutlingen area?
I know these are many questions and some background information is probably missing. Still, I appreciate every tip, advice, and experience you can share.
Best regards,
Michael
This sounds like a complete renovation. Except for the heating system and interior doors, almost everything will be redone.
You should consult an expert for this. Ideally, an architect who can design and obtain quotes, and a structural engineer to oversee the construction. For the openings you may also need a statics engineer.
Evaluating this here in the forum would be beyond the scope and isn’t really possible.
However, this will not be an inexpensive project. We have just been through this ourselves, and it costs a lot of money and patience :-)
But in the end, it is worth it.
You should consult an expert for this. Ideally, an architect who can design and obtain quotes, and a structural engineer to oversee the construction. For the openings you may also need a statics engineer.
Evaluating this here in the forum would be beyond the scope and isn’t really possible.
However, this will not be an inexpensive project. We have just been through this ourselves, and it costs a lot of money and patience :-)
But in the end, it is worth it.
Umbau-Susi16 Nov 2015 12:06Our experience: It is essential to work with an architect who has experience in renovations and remodeling existing buildings.
Visit reference projects.
Then review everything with the architect, get their initial opinion, and see if you can work well together.
Visit reference projects.
Then review everything with the architect, get their initial opinion, and see if you can work well together.
My recommendation: Arrange an initial on-site meeting with the mentioned architect, who has experience in older buildings and renovations. During this appointment, they will assess the existing condition, document any building damages, evaluate the planning and building regulations applicable to the property, and discuss your renovation and change-of-use plans with you.
A building permit / planning permission will certainly be required for the renovation if structural changes are extensive: relocating or removing load-bearing walls, making ceiling openings, or creating wall openings for new or larger doors/windows. If the attic is to be converted, this would be a change of use requiring a building permit / planning permission. The entire building services system, including piping, will likely need to be renewed. Any previous “renovations” (e.g., roof insulation) must be critically reviewed by the architect, as they are often not professionally carried out. Quick fixes such as “basement waterproofing” through drainage should be avoided; condensation moisture is usually the actual issue.
Regarding the procedure: once you and the architect have agreed, a detailed and dimensionally accurate survey of the building should be conducted, and current as-built plans created. This is a very important foundation. If this fundamental analysis is done carelessly to save, for example, planning costs, it will lead to unpleasant surprises during the renovation, resulting in additional time and financial expenses. Based on this, the architect will create a preliminary design / design, each accompanied by a cost estimate so that you can plan your financing. The architect aligns your financial means with the design, reconciling wishes and reality—often requiring compromises on the original vision.
Owner participation can be considered in the cost calculation but should be realistically evaluated and not overestimated. Realistically, this amounts to around 8–10% of the gross construction costs, which corresponds to about 20–25 work weeks/person-hours and must be sustained continuously. This is recommended, for example, during demolition, where permitted and reasonable.
Overall, after the preliminary design and the first cost estimate, it should become clear whether the renovation and refurbishment / energy-efficient renovation are worthwhile. If the costs approach those of a comparably sized new build—which is approximately €1,500/m2 (about $1,600/ft2) gross for net usable floor area (cost groups 300+400), excluding incidental construction costs (cost group 700), exterior works (cost group 500), and fittings/furnishings (cost group 600) according to DIN 276—then it is usually no longer economically sensible. Exceptions include cases where the house has significant architectural value and an excellent location (land valuation) and would fetch at least this price on the market after renovation. Banks will likely assess financing in the same way.
A building permit / planning permission will certainly be required for the renovation if structural changes are extensive: relocating or removing load-bearing walls, making ceiling openings, or creating wall openings for new or larger doors/windows. If the attic is to be converted, this would be a change of use requiring a building permit / planning permission. The entire building services system, including piping, will likely need to be renewed. Any previous “renovations” (e.g., roof insulation) must be critically reviewed by the architect, as they are often not professionally carried out. Quick fixes such as “basement waterproofing” through drainage should be avoided; condensation moisture is usually the actual issue.
Regarding the procedure: once you and the architect have agreed, a detailed and dimensionally accurate survey of the building should be conducted, and current as-built plans created. This is a very important foundation. If this fundamental analysis is done carelessly to save, for example, planning costs, it will lead to unpleasant surprises during the renovation, resulting in additional time and financial expenses. Based on this, the architect will create a preliminary design / design, each accompanied by a cost estimate so that you can plan your financing. The architect aligns your financial means with the design, reconciling wishes and reality—often requiring compromises on the original vision.
Owner participation can be considered in the cost calculation but should be realistically evaluated and not overestimated. Realistically, this amounts to around 8–10% of the gross construction costs, which corresponds to about 20–25 work weeks/person-hours and must be sustained continuously. This is recommended, for example, during demolition, where permitted and reasonable.
Overall, after the preliminary design and the first cost estimate, it should become clear whether the renovation and refurbishment / energy-efficient renovation are worthwhile. If the costs approach those of a comparably sized new build—which is approximately €1,500/m2 (about $1,600/ft2) gross for net usable floor area (cost groups 300+400), excluding incidental construction costs (cost group 700), exterior works (cost group 500), and fittings/furnishings (cost group 600) according to DIN 276—then it is usually no longer economically sensible. Exceptions include cases where the house has significant architectural value and an excellent location (land valuation) and would fetch at least this price on the market after renovation. Banks will likely assess financing in the same way.
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