Hello everyone!
I have an entrance area in my house of about 8m² (86 ft²) that functions like a small vestibule. There is a small coat rack and the doors lead to the ground floor rooms (workshop and boiler room).
I recently had the door replaced, and now that the draft issue has been fixed, I want to address the floor. The subfloor consists of about 50cm (20 inches) of concrete from 1899, beneath which is a damp ground—there is no basement underneath. There is no visible moisture on the concrete, and the old parquet flooring in the workshop is not warping, so I assume the floor is fairly dry.
In the vestibule, I would like to add insulation because it tends to be very cold in this area. Currently, there are only 2mm (0.08 inches) thick PVC panels glued onto the concrete. I have a total of 45mm (1.8 inches) of space available. Can anyone recommend a suitable insulation material? Since this is an entrance area, it needs to handle some moisture… Would underfloor heating be advisable here? The heat could then rise and help warm the entire staircase as well… Currently, there is no radiator in this space.
Thank you, Nick
I have an entrance area in my house of about 8m² (86 ft²) that functions like a small vestibule. There is a small coat rack and the doors lead to the ground floor rooms (workshop and boiler room).
I recently had the door replaced, and now that the draft issue has been fixed, I want to address the floor. The subfloor consists of about 50cm (20 inches) of concrete from 1899, beneath which is a damp ground—there is no basement underneath. There is no visible moisture on the concrete, and the old parquet flooring in the workshop is not warping, so I assume the floor is fairly dry.
In the vestibule, I would like to add insulation because it tends to be very cold in this area. Currently, there are only 2mm (0.08 inches) thick PVC panels glued onto the concrete. I have a total of 45mm (1.8 inches) of space available. Can anyone recommend a suitable insulation material? Since this is an entrance area, it needs to handle some moisture… Would underfloor heating be advisable here? The heat could then rise and help warm the entire staircase as well… Currently, there is no radiator in this space.
Thank you, Nick
Hello Nick,
You have actually already mentioned the most important parameter: there is no rising damp.
Here is how I would approach it:
Grind the concrete surface, prime it with a dispersion primer, and then cover it with ceramic porcelain tiles.
A so-called foil heating system is embedded into the mortar bed. This is an electric heating mat about 2mm (1/16 inch) thick. Depending on your preference, this foil heating can be used either just as underfloor heating or, with a thermostat, as a regulated room heating system.
The advantage of this heating system, which has proven reliable in practice, lies on the one hand in its low installation height, and especially in its very fast response time.
Turn it on, and the floor is warm within just a few minutes.
Personally, I think this build-up approach should at least be considered as a potential solution for your home.
Simply look up “underfloor heating – heating foil” online!
Anything else would either be technically complex to implement or would not deliver the expected results. Because just insulation alone cannot and will not warm a floor.
---------------------
Regards, KlaRa
You have actually already mentioned the most important parameter: there is no rising damp.
Here is how I would approach it:
Grind the concrete surface, prime it with a dispersion primer, and then cover it with ceramic porcelain tiles.
A so-called foil heating system is embedded into the mortar bed. This is an electric heating mat about 2mm (1/16 inch) thick. Depending on your preference, this foil heating can be used either just as underfloor heating or, with a thermostat, as a regulated room heating system.
The advantage of this heating system, which has proven reliable in practice, lies on the one hand in its low installation height, and especially in its very fast response time.
Turn it on, and the floor is warm within just a few minutes.
Personally, I think this build-up approach should at least be considered as a potential solution for your home.
Simply look up “underfloor heating – heating foil” online!
Anything else would either be technically complex to implement or would not deliver the expected results. Because just insulation alone cannot and will not warm a floor.
---------------------
Regards, KlaRa
Hello Klaus
Thank you very much for your detailed reply! I already have a floor heating system connected to the oil heater in the bathroom. Would it also be possible to install a floor heating system with water pipes? Since the boiler room is directly next to the entrance hall, this would be easy to manage...
Or is the space under the door not sufficient for that?
I have read that these electric floor heating systems can consume a lot of electricity...?
Thank you very much, Nick
Thank you very much for your detailed reply! I already have a floor heating system connected to the oil heater in the bathroom. Would it also be possible to install a floor heating system with water pipes? Since the boiler room is directly next to the entrance hall, this would be easy to manage...
Or is the space under the door not sufficient for that?
I have read that these electric floor heating systems can consume a lot of electricity...?
Thank you very much, Nick
Hello Nick,
Firstly, a foil heating system is a special design because it is not listed in the screed standard DIN 18560 Part 2. However, it has proven effective in practice and is therefore considered "state of the art."
The electrical consumption of such foil heaters is often overestimated.
If this foil heating is intended to serve as the primary room heating, then the consumption and the associated costs are inevitable regardless of the heating type.
However, if a warm water underfloor heating system is already in place with a connection option, then this approach can indeed be pursued—provided the build-up height is sufficient. In this case, 45 mm (1.8 inches) is not enough.
What would then be necessary, according to professional standards, is a screed on insulation layer, in which the heating elements are installed within the cross-section.
This means approximately 40 mm (1.6 inches) of insulation and 55 mm (2.2 inches) of screed (calcium sulfate flowing screed) plus the floor covering.
Alternatively, as another special construction, a bonded screed could be used, embedding the heating elements. This method also works but, as mentioned, is a special design with disadvantages, mainly because there is no insulation underneath.
I had already taken all this into account in my considerations.
I am not familiar with the on-site situation.
If the installation, as you described it, would involve "cutting" into the slab to run the heating elements under the door, then this idea should be discarded. There is good reason for the rule (especially concerning concrete slabs): "Keep away from structural components."
That is why I suggested the foil heating under porcelain tiles.
----------------------------------------
Have a nice Sunday: Klaus
Firstly, a foil heating system is a special design because it is not listed in the screed standard DIN 18560 Part 2. However, it has proven effective in practice and is therefore considered "state of the art."
The electrical consumption of such foil heaters is often overestimated.
If this foil heating is intended to serve as the primary room heating, then the consumption and the associated costs are inevitable regardless of the heating type.
However, if a warm water underfloor heating system is already in place with a connection option, then this approach can indeed be pursued—provided the build-up height is sufficient. In this case, 45 mm (1.8 inches) is not enough.
What would then be necessary, according to professional standards, is a screed on insulation layer, in which the heating elements are installed within the cross-section.
This means approximately 40 mm (1.6 inches) of insulation and 55 mm (2.2 inches) of screed (calcium sulfate flowing screed) plus the floor covering.
Alternatively, as another special construction, a bonded screed could be used, embedding the heating elements. This method also works but, as mentioned, is a special design with disadvantages, mainly because there is no insulation underneath.
I had already taken all this into account in my considerations.
I am not familiar with the on-site situation.
If the installation, as you described it, would involve "cutting" into the slab to run the heating elements under the door, then this idea should be discarded. There is good reason for the rule (especially concerning concrete slabs): "Keep away from structural components."
That is why I suggested the foil heating under porcelain tiles.
----------------------------------------
Have a nice Sunday: Klaus
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