ᐅ Replace the exterior wall on the west side with a permanent solution

Hello,

about 30 years ago, we built a hall, and now the west-facing wall looks quite bad (see pictures).

Unfortunately, it is a boundary wall, so the gutter is installed on the wall to avoid overhanging the neighbor’s property.

We would now like to renovate the exterior wall and are looking for a PERMANENT solution.

What should be done here, and which materials would be suitable for use on the weather-exposed side?
What costs can be expected?

Would it possibly be better not to use plaster anymore but, for example, a metal cladding instead? Although maybe that could cause problems with mold?

Hello.
About half a year ago, we had similar façade work carried out based on the following specifications, which might be helpful for you –

Cleaning the façade surface using a high-pressure cleaner
approx. 900.00 sqm (9,688 sq ft)

Left side (standing in front of the building)

For the gray area below the parapet on loose plaster –
Check plaster, remove and prime if necessary. Priming of loose
base plaster also on parts of the other façade.

Street side

For loose plaster at the entrance side, bottom right, left corner at offset base I façade reveals of the stairwell window left, next to the steel door as well as at the parapet and on partial areas

Prime façade I window sills in advance.

Rear side

For corner at façade I base, large holes in the base at the workshop, on parts of the façade I window sills as well as the gray area at the parapet – prime in advance.

Right side
For left of the sliding door (tires), at the corner façade I base, at the parapet full width gray area at the window reveal, near ventilation openings, base sections as well as on façades I window sills – prime in advance.

Also, provisions for unforeseen work will be made under supervised documentation (estimated effort):

FAÇADE Renovation

One-time priming of the façade surface with a water-thinnable, siloxane-enhanced acrylic-based primer to create an evenly absorbent and stable substrate
approx. 870.00 sqm (9,365 sq ft)

Applying full-surface reinforcement by embedding reinforcement mesh
approx. 870.00 sqm (9,365 sq ft)

Supply and installation of mesh corner angles with mesh overlay as edge protection profiles at building corners, window reveals, and lintels, as well as drip edge profiles at the ends of cantilevers. Installing finishing profiles on flush-mounted steel frames
approx. 445.00 linear meters (1,460 linear feet)

Supply and embed reinforcement rods at all windows and doors to prevent diagonal cracking.

Pre-coating of the reinforced façade surface
approx. 870.00 sqm (9,365 sq ft)

Applying a new finishing plaster with a textured finish, scratch texture (type Kom 3), on the prepared surfaces, tinted color shade
approx. 870.00 sqm (9,365 sq ft)

One-time painting of the new finishing plaster with a low-stress, highly CO₂- and water vapor-permeable, highly water-repellent genuine silicone resin paint that is resistant to dirt buildup; factory-applied additional film protection to prevent algae and spore growth. Color shade of choice, light/tinted
approx. 870.00 sqm (9,365 sq ft)

etc.

Thank you for your response! This is the common approach.

Are there any alternative suggestions here?

Gluing brick slips. They are not very attractive, but they don’t add much thickness. The costs are also reasonable. However, you cannot avoid careful preparation if you want durability. This also applies to other solutions.

sunshineh schrieb:

Are there any alternative suggestions here?

Demolition?

Regards, Bauexperte

Also, "gluing facing bricks" sounds too complicated for a hall. It doesn’t have to win a beauty contest...

@Bauexperte – do you really think so?!
But that statement doesn’t sound like
"Honest – Professional – Innovative"?!?
...wasn’t really helpful

Is there maybe a kind of "concrete" that can be applied directly to the house wall?