A
atomic20001 Jul 2019 13:42Hello,
I recently purchased an end-terrace house built in 1986 and am planning the upcoming renovation work. Now I am wondering whether I need to replace the roof insulation to improve thermal protection against heat and cold. This would be a good time since we do not yet live in the house.
It has a pitched roof that covers two floors (out of three). The attic is converted into a room and has radiators and two roof windows (Braas) on each side. The ceilings and walls are covered with wooden battens, while on the second floor the walls and ceilings are covered with drywall panels.
The construction description states:
"Plasterboard on counter battens, 10cm (4 inches) mineral wool, between joists, air space, concrete roof tiles."
A vapor barrier/retardant foil is visible.
In some areas of the attic, wooden beams have warped slightly forward and cannot be pushed back by hand. Also, some wooden paneling is missing, leaving the insulation exposed.
I have read that until the 1990s, carcinogenic mineral wool was used. Unfortunately, I do not know which type is installed in my house. Should the insulation be replaced for this reason alone?
According to the previous owner, drafts are only noticeable through the bedroom inspection hatch on the second floor. Otherwise, there is nothing unusual in winter or summer.
What do you recommend: replace or leave as is?
I recently purchased an end-terrace house built in 1986 and am planning the upcoming renovation work. Now I am wondering whether I need to replace the roof insulation to improve thermal protection against heat and cold. This would be a good time since we do not yet live in the house.
It has a pitched roof that covers two floors (out of three). The attic is converted into a room and has radiators and two roof windows (Braas) on each side. The ceilings and walls are covered with wooden battens, while on the second floor the walls and ceilings are covered with drywall panels.
The construction description states:
"Plasterboard on counter battens, 10cm (4 inches) mineral wool, between joists, air space, concrete roof tiles."
A vapor barrier/retardant foil is visible.
In some areas of the attic, wooden beams have warped slightly forward and cannot be pushed back by hand. Also, some wooden paneling is missing, leaving the insulation exposed.
I have read that until the 1990s, carcinogenic mineral wool was used. Unfortunately, I do not know which type is installed in my house. Should the insulation be replaced for this reason alone?
According to the previous owner, drafts are only noticeable through the bedroom inspection hatch on the second floor. Otherwise, there is nothing unusual in winter or summer.
What do you recommend: replace or leave as is?
A
atomic20001 Jul 2019 14:40Hmm, where can I check if I need to do this? Does the new insulation (between rafters / under rafters) provide significant protection against heat and cold?
I haven't opened the roof yet and can provide few details at the moment, but what is commonly used for insulation today (good cost/performance ratio)? If I should insulate, I would like to use gypsum boards instead of wooden battens in the attic.
I haven't opened the roof yet and can provide few details at the moment, but what is commonly used for insulation today (good cost/performance ratio)? If I should insulate, I would like to use gypsum boards instead of wooden battens in the attic.
Well, that depends on various conditions, and an expert would be the best source of information.
However, even if it is not mandatory, I would recommend adding some insulation considering the upcoming summers. It should be about 30 cm (12 inches). There are different options, such as mineral wool or blown-in insulation.
However, even if it is not mandatory, I would recommend adding some insulation considering the upcoming summers. It should be about 30 cm (12 inches). There are different options, such as mineral wool or blown-in insulation.
I recommend either doubling the beams or adding insulation below the rafters. For this, I would use mineral wool with the maximum thickness available. I wouldn’t start with less than 20cm (8 inches) total. More is often better.
You gain additional mass, and thus heat protection, by using OSB3 boards as a vapor barrier. These must be carefully glued and sealed against the wall.
On top of that, drywall can be installed.
If you don’t do this now, you will be seriously frustrated—at the latest by next summer! 10cm (4 inches) is practically nothing. In terms of cost, this is quite reasonable. Without knowing current material prices, I would estimate around 2000 euros and one week of work.
By the way, this is a job that can also be done by a DIY enthusiast.
You gain additional mass, and thus heat protection, by using OSB3 boards as a vapor barrier. These must be carefully glued and sealed against the wall.
On top of that, drywall can be installed.
If you don’t do this now, you will be seriously frustrated—at the latest by next summer! 10cm (4 inches) is practically nothing. In terms of cost, this is quite reasonable. Without knowing current material prices, I would estimate around 2000 euros and one week of work.
By the way, this is a job that can also be done by a DIY enthusiast.
P
pffreestyler1 Jul 2019 15:31Isn't 30 cm (12 inches) a bit excessive? You lose a lot of living space that way. Even in new builds, 24 cm (9.5 inches) is often used, so why at least 30 cm (12 inches) in an older building?
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