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marietante16 Dec 2016 00:22Dear ikeafans,
I am quite impressed by the expertise you all show here. Unfortunately, I haven’t yet found an answer to my specific question(s) and I’m really hoping for your helpfulness.
Background: I took over my kitchen from the previous tenant five years ago, and before that from their predecessor, and so on. Each person made some modifications, so I don’t know exactly how old everything is. The root of the problem: The original oven was poor quality and poorly insulated, causing the adjacent cabinet fronts to heat up significantly, which initially caused the surface to peel. Now it’s gotten so bad that the plastic coating has completely come off. I have a new oven now, and while I can still get the Ädel fronts, I would like to do something about this.
Question 1: Color differences between old and new fronts?
What have your experiences been regarding color differences between new fronts and the existing ones? I have a total of 10 carcasses with doors (Ädel ivory white), 5 at the bottom and 5 at the top. Only the two cabinet fronts next to the oven—left and right—are really damaged. Since my kitchen is U-shaped and the oven is in the middle section, a “minimal replacement” of the fronts next to the oven would mean one entire leg of the U would have new fronts. On the adjoining corner there is a dishwasher with a stainless steel front, which looks different anyway.
What would you recommend based on your experiences?
a) Replace only the two damaged fronts?
b) Replace all the lower cabinet fronts (5)?
c) Replace all kitchen fronts (10)?
d) Is there another sensible option I haven’t thought of?
Question 2: Full drawer front or split front?
My kitchen isn’t very large, so I want to use every centimeter. I had two 40cm (16 inches) wide carcasses that I found quite inconvenient to use, so I retrofitted drawers instead. These drawers are ideally tailored to their contents—there are three below the standard cutlery drawer and four in the other cabinet, each at the ideal height. Back then, I simply attached the existing cabinet door to one drawer front. Now I’ve seen there are also proper drawer fronts, but I’m not sure if they would fit well with my drawer arrangement.
So my questions are:
2.1) At what height should the drawer runner be installed inside the carcass to fit the drawer fronts properly (which hole counting from the bottom)?
2.2) Has anyone tried screwing two drawer fronts together? Does it look good? Is it stable enough? Or is the normal cabinet door still the better option (despite the annoying hinge hole that must be patched)? Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Question 3: Dampers—do I have Rationell I, B, or H?
As described above, I retrofitted drawers. For the new ones, I bought dampers, which work great, and I would also like to retrofit the old ones. Unfortunately, I have no idea which Rationell type they are. The fact is, the plastic drawer fronts for inside the cabinet didn’t fit, so I modified them with a cutter knife until they fit reasonably well. Could you please help me identify them—do I need to buy dampers type I, B, or H? Here are some pictures:
Are my pictures sufficient for identification?
Thank you so much in advance for your tips and thoughts on my concerns!
Best regards,
Marie
I am quite impressed by the expertise you all show here. Unfortunately, I haven’t yet found an answer to my specific question(s) and I’m really hoping for your helpfulness.
Background: I took over my kitchen from the previous tenant five years ago, and before that from their predecessor, and so on. Each person made some modifications, so I don’t know exactly how old everything is. The root of the problem: The original oven was poor quality and poorly insulated, causing the adjacent cabinet fronts to heat up significantly, which initially caused the surface to peel. Now it’s gotten so bad that the plastic coating has completely come off. I have a new oven now, and while I can still get the Ädel fronts, I would like to do something about this.
Question 1: Color differences between old and new fronts?
What have your experiences been regarding color differences between new fronts and the existing ones? I have a total of 10 carcasses with doors (Ädel ivory white), 5 at the bottom and 5 at the top. Only the two cabinet fronts next to the oven—left and right—are really damaged. Since my kitchen is U-shaped and the oven is in the middle section, a “minimal replacement” of the fronts next to the oven would mean one entire leg of the U would have new fronts. On the adjoining corner there is a dishwasher with a stainless steel front, which looks different anyway.
What would you recommend based on your experiences?
a) Replace only the two damaged fronts?
b) Replace all the lower cabinet fronts (5)?
c) Replace all kitchen fronts (10)?
d) Is there another sensible option I haven’t thought of?
Question 2: Full drawer front or split front?
My kitchen isn’t very large, so I want to use every centimeter. I had two 40cm (16 inches) wide carcasses that I found quite inconvenient to use, so I retrofitted drawers instead. These drawers are ideally tailored to their contents—there are three below the standard cutlery drawer and four in the other cabinet, each at the ideal height. Back then, I simply attached the existing cabinet door to one drawer front. Now I’ve seen there are also proper drawer fronts, but I’m not sure if they would fit well with my drawer arrangement.
So my questions are:
2.1) At what height should the drawer runner be installed inside the carcass to fit the drawer fronts properly (which hole counting from the bottom)?
2.2) Has anyone tried screwing two drawer fronts together? Does it look good? Is it stable enough? Or is the normal cabinet door still the better option (despite the annoying hinge hole that must be patched)? Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Question 3: Dampers—do I have Rationell I, B, or H?
As described above, I retrofitted drawers. For the new ones, I bought dampers, which work great, and I would also like to retrofit the old ones. Unfortunately, I have no idea which Rationell type they are. The fact is, the plastic drawer fronts for inside the cabinet didn’t fit, so I modified them with a cutter knife until they fit reasonably well. Could you please help me identify them—do I need to buy dampers type I, B, or H? Here are some pictures:
Are my pictures sufficient for identification?
Thank you so much in advance for your tips and thoughts on my concerns!
Best regards,
Marie
I
IKEA-Experte17 Dec 2016 00:26Hello.
1) I have no experience with color variations. I would order two fronts first and then decide if they match well or if the other fronts need to be exchanged.
2) Which hole the drawers are mounted in depends on H or B. For two separate drawers, you need two deep drawers. You are definitely more flexible with one front and inner drawers.
By the way, with RATIONELL it is not necessary to attach the rails further back.
If you use the connecting rail for the RATIONELL drawers, two connected fronts are stable.
There are cover caps available for the hinge holes on the door.
3) RATIONELL B, but the rails are too old for dampers, at least the ones I see in the picture.
1) I have no experience with color variations. I would order two fronts first and then decide if they match well or if the other fronts need to be exchanged.
2) Which hole the drawers are mounted in depends on H or B. For two separate drawers, you need two deep drawers. You are definitely more flexible with one front and inner drawers.
By the way, with RATIONELL it is not necessary to attach the rails further back.
If you use the connecting rail for the RATIONELL drawers, two connected fronts are stable.
There are cover caps available for the hinge holes on the door.
3) RATIONELL B, but the rails are too old for dampers, at least the ones I see in the picture.
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marietante22 Dec 2016 12:06Thank you for your quick response. I guess I’ll order 2 front panels then. Do I need to specifically request the cover plate for the hinge cup drilling, or is it usually included?
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IKEA-Experte22 Dec 2016 12:24Cover caps and connecting rails are only available as replacement parts from customer service.
1 pair of connecting rails: 316348
Cover cap: 123279
Mounting cap for door as pull-out front: 117571
1 pair of connecting rails: 316348
Cover cap: 123279
Mounting cap for door as pull-out front: 117571
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