Hello everyone,
I previously commented on "Joint Width of Mosaic Parquet After Installation".
The parquet has now been sanded and sealed (for almost 3 weeks), and we have further concerns about the quality.
- With the cove moldings, the impact sound insulation strip is visible.
- There are unattractive gaps between the 6cm (2.4 inches) baseboards and the floor – how can this be corrected? Would silicone be appropriate?
- In one spot, the parquet appears to have warped upwards over an area of about 1m² (11 sq ft), the screed was perfectly flat and is original to the house built in 2003. What could be the cause?
- It is noticeable that the gaps between the parquet and the wall are in some places very small (less than 3mm (0.1 inches)).
- Finally, is there a guideline for the number of sealant coats when using 1K sealers in heavily used rooms? Unfortunately, this was not defined in the contract, and I overlooked it in the stress of the build (my fault as well!).
Am I being too critical?
Thanks and regards
I previously commented on "Joint Width of Mosaic Parquet After Installation".
The parquet has now been sanded and sealed (for almost 3 weeks), and we have further concerns about the quality.
- With the cove moldings, the impact sound insulation strip is visible.
- There are unattractive gaps between the 6cm (2.4 inches) baseboards and the floor – how can this be corrected? Would silicone be appropriate?
- In one spot, the parquet appears to have warped upwards over an area of about 1m² (11 sq ft), the screed was perfectly flat and is original to the house built in 2003. What could be the cause?
- It is noticeable that the gaps between the parquet and the wall are in some places very small (less than 3mm (0.1 inches)).
- Finally, is there a guideline for the number of sealant coats when using 1K sealers in heavily used rooms? Unfortunately, this was not defined in the contract, and I overlooked it in the stress of the build (my fault as well!).
Am I being too critical?
Thanks and regards
Hello Akira303.
Regarding your questions, here are the answers:
Answer to 1)
The sound strip can be pushed back with a flat, blunt tool (for example, a blunt knife), and the baseboard can then be gently pressed down from above onto the surface of the parquet.
Answer to 2)
Gaps like these between the underside of the baseboards and the parquet surface are not always avoidable.
This is because the baseboards are always planed straight, and the surface of a screed (which the parquet must follow) must meet certain flatness tolerances, which within the allowed range can still be visibly noticeable.
For example, if the underside of the baseboard touches the parquet surface at two points 1m (3.3 ft) apart, and the gap between is 4mm (0.16 inches), this would still be within the acceptable tolerance (Source: DIN 18202 Table 3, Row 3).
This can be corrected, but definitely not with silicone!
Use an acrylic sealant in a color similar to the baseboard wood. You can find acrylic sealants like this in any well-stocked hardware store.
Answer to 3)
The parquet is pressed tightly against the wall. This is not correct.
However, before getting too harsh with the flooring installer, it’s possible that the wood material has expanded due to indoor climate conditions, and what was once an adequate expansion gap is now filled.
This may be the case – but it does not have to be.
In any case, the flooring installer will be able to restore the expansion gap using a shadow gap saw.
Recommended distance to the wall is 5-8mm (0.2-0.3 inches) for non-heated screeds, and at least 10mm (0.4 inches) for heated screeds.
Answer to 4)
The key factor is the manufacturer’s instructions for the parquet varnish.
The idea that “more is better” does not apply here!
On the contrary, those who believe that may end up facing problems.
---------------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
Regarding your questions, here are the answers:
Answer to 1)
The sound strip can be pushed back with a flat, blunt tool (for example, a blunt knife), and the baseboard can then be gently pressed down from above onto the surface of the parquet.
Answer to 2)
Gaps like these between the underside of the baseboards and the parquet surface are not always avoidable.
This is because the baseboards are always planed straight, and the surface of a screed (which the parquet must follow) must meet certain flatness tolerances, which within the allowed range can still be visibly noticeable.
For example, if the underside of the baseboard touches the parquet surface at two points 1m (3.3 ft) apart, and the gap between is 4mm (0.16 inches), this would still be within the acceptable tolerance (Source: DIN 18202 Table 3, Row 3).
This can be corrected, but definitely not with silicone!
Use an acrylic sealant in a color similar to the baseboard wood. You can find acrylic sealants like this in any well-stocked hardware store.
Answer to 3)
The parquet is pressed tightly against the wall. This is not correct.
However, before getting too harsh with the flooring installer, it’s possible that the wood material has expanded due to indoor climate conditions, and what was once an adequate expansion gap is now filled.
This may be the case – but it does not have to be.
In any case, the flooring installer will be able to restore the expansion gap using a shadow gap saw.
Recommended distance to the wall is 5-8mm (0.2-0.3 inches) for non-heated screeds, and at least 10mm (0.4 inches) for heated screeds.
Answer to 4)
The key factor is the manufacturer’s instructions for the parquet varnish.
The idea that “more is better” does not apply here!
On the contrary, those who believe that may end up facing problems.
---------------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
Many thanks for your detailed feedback! Unfortunately, it fits into an overall pattern, starting with mosaic parquet laid with joints that are too wide, partly visible sanding marks, a hollow spot that creaks, an unevenness in the floor, the baseboards, and ignored specifications... And this from an expensive supplier like Bembe.
H
HilfeHilfe2 Aug 2022 07:18Akira303 schrieb:
Thank you very much for your detailed feedback! Unfortunately, it fits into an overall picture, starting with mosaic parquet installed with joints that are too wide, partly visible sanding marks, a hollow spot that creaks, a wave in the floor, the baseboards, ignored specifications... And this from an expensive provider like Bembe.Have you spoken with the contractor? The photos only show minor issues. You are looking for something and find it under a magnifying glass. Once the furniture is in place, you won’t see any dents or similar.
HilfeHilfe schrieb:
Have you talked to the contractor? The photos only show minor issues. You’re looking for problems and finding them with a magnifying glass. Once the furniture is in place, you won’t see any dents or similar. HilfeHilfe schrieb:
Have you talked to the contractor? The photos only show minor issues. You’re looking for problems and finding them with a magnifying glass. Once the furniture is in place, you won’t see any dents or similar. I agree with you about the plot. However, I haven’t had such problems with other trades, especially since Bembe is not exactly a low-budget option.
The supervisor went through everything with me and unfortunately sees it the same way:
- Cove moldings were installed upside down on two floors, which explains the white stripe (!!!)
- Slight sanding waves still visible repeatedly, even without grazing light
- Numerous small spots still need to be repaired
- Insufficient gaps to the wall
Overall: poor workmanship.
A new contractor will take over, all moldings will be removed again, everything must be corrected, and the price will be reduced. A lot of hassle, and I just hope the sealing hasn’t been done poorly as well (although I didn’t notice anything).
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