ᐅ How to Properly Adjust an Air-to-Water Heat Pump with Underfloor Heating
Created on: 15 Dec 2019 16:52
M
M4rvin
Hello,
I have been searching around and reading the manual for my Elco air-to-water heat pump, but I haven’t fully figured it out yet...
I have a manifold on the ground floor and first floor; the recommendation is to fully open everything, set all thermostats to maximum, and then adjust the heating curve on the heat pump low enough to roughly achieve the desired temperature.
Is that more or less correct?
At the moment, every thermostat (except bathroom/bedroom) is set to 20°C (68°F), and the temperature in each room is about 20.9°C (70°F) (bathroom slightly warmer, bedroom slightly cooler).
However, I’m surprised by the high electricity consumption — it has been 800 kWh in just 2 months.
135 m² (1455 sq ft) living area
Elco Split 7 kW
Circulation pump not yet connected
Thanks in advance
M4rvin
I have been searching around and reading the manual for my Elco air-to-water heat pump, but I haven’t fully figured it out yet...
I have a manifold on the ground floor and first floor; the recommendation is to fully open everything, set all thermostats to maximum, and then adjust the heating curve on the heat pump low enough to roughly achieve the desired temperature.
Is that more or less correct?
At the moment, every thermostat (except bathroom/bedroom) is set to 20°C (68°F), and the temperature in each room is about 20.9°C (70°F) (bathroom slightly warmer, bedroom slightly cooler).
However, I’m surprised by the high electricity consumption — it has been 800 kWh in just 2 months.
135 m² (1455 sq ft) living area
Elco Split 7 kW
Circulation pump not yet connected
Thanks in advance
M4rvin
bernie schrieb:
Why should 800 kWh for November and December be too much? What are your expectations for your heat pump? October and November and the first two weeks of December. It’s only been a bit cold for a week...
guckuck2 schrieb:
0.6 is very high, try 0.2.
Electricity consumption for 135 sqm (1453 sq ft) is also significantly increased. There’s room for improvement. First try 0.2 or remove all limits right away?
M4rvin schrieb:
Hmm, wouldn’t it overheat then?As I understand hydraulic balancing, it’s best to first fully open all thermostats or remove them completely, and also fully open the valves in the heating circuit distributor. After that, the valves in the heating circuit distributor are slowly turned back manually until the desired temperature is reached. When it gets colder or warmer outside, the air-to-water heat pump automatically adjusts via the outdoor sensor. Once properly set, you don’t need individual room control, which doesn’t make sense anyway with the air-to-water heat pump and underfloor heating due to the system’s inertia. The advantage is that load fluctuations on the air-to-water heat pump are minimized (resulting in better operating behavior). This leads to lower electricity consumption and reduces wear and tear.M4rvin schrieb:
October and November and the first two weeks of December. It has only been a bit cold for about a week... Just roughly estimated:
Your house needs about 9,000 kWh of HEATING energy per year. With a COP of 3.0 to 3.5, that means around 2,500 to 3,000 kWh of electricity. The heating runs until March/April. So your 800 kWh of electricity used so far actually seems to fit that picture, or am I mistaken?
WingVII schrieb:
and also fully open the valves in the heating circuit distributor. Afterwards, the valves in the heating circuit distributor are manually turned back slowly as far as necessary, That is overkill. You should perform a rough hydraulic balancing at the heating circuit distributor (HKD) and never fully open everything. Doing so will cause disorder and adjustments will take weeks or months.
The valves at the HKD should be roughly set according to calculations (the better the calculation, the less work needed). The actuators should either be completely off or powered to open.
Then fine adjustments to the flow can be made at the valves.
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