Good evening,
I registered here because I’m having trouble with my IKEA kitchen.
Yesterday, I finally wanted to install the wall cabinets, and while marking the holes, I noticed that electrical cables run under the mounting bracket of two of the cabinets. I’m considering moving the bracket (the metal angle) to avoid the cables. You can see in the picture how I imagined this.
I was thinking of attaching the bracket from the left side under the cabinet top panel to gain about 4-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) of clearance from the electrical cables. However, I’m not sure how stable this new setup would be. Has anyone tried something like this before or do you have another suggestion for me? Unfortunately, I can’t shift the wall cabinets to the right or left because then they wouldn’t align with the base cabinets. (It’s a small, awkwardly shaped kitchen with very limited options).
Best regards, your stressed and puzzled
Sandra
I registered here because I’m having trouble with my IKEA kitchen.
Yesterday, I finally wanted to install the wall cabinets, and while marking the holes, I noticed that electrical cables run under the mounting bracket of two of the cabinets. I’m considering moving the bracket (the metal angle) to avoid the cables. You can see in the picture how I imagined this.
I was thinking of attaching the bracket from the left side under the cabinet top panel to gain about 4-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) of clearance from the electrical cables. However, I’m not sure how stable this new setup would be. Has anyone tried something like this before or do you have another suggestion for me? Unfortunately, I can’t shift the wall cabinets to the right or left because then they wouldn’t align with the base cabinets. (It’s a small, awkwardly shaped kitchen with very limited options).
Best regards, your stressed and puzzled
Sandra
A
andiii_9812 Dec 2012 21:43We had a similar problem and solved it by moving the mounting bracket a few holes lower, of course drilling corresponding holes in the back panel. So far, it has held perfectly. And if you cover the original hole with those plastic caps, you can't even see that any modifications were made.
M
Maverick185413 Dec 2012 06:43Changing the positions of the holes is a tricky matter:
1.) The 25-year warranty and guarantee are void.
2.) You need to be experienced and do it properly.
3.) You should have a sense of how much load the cabinet can still bear.
4.) Even after years, you should know exactly how each cabinet is installed.
I believe that regarding point 4, the people who will recommend this the quickest are often the ones who forget or give advice too hastily, which not everyone can follow. I am confident in doing such work myself, but I also wouldn’t consider having someone else assemble my kitchen. I have a skilled trade background, and my family is accustomed to this kind of handiwork. I don’t give advice on such matters unless I’m 100% sure that the original poster can handle it as well.
That’s why I am very cautious about statements like: “I did it this way, and it’s definitely going to hold.”
Consider points 1–4 carefully before relocating cabinet holes. Otherwise, it’s better to leave it alone.
Otherwise, just use a rail system like you did and attach the cabinets to that. It’s even easier than aligning each cabinet individually, and the 3–5cm (1–2 inches) gap on the side can be adjusted with a side panel if needed.
1.) The 25-year warranty and guarantee are void.
2.) You need to be experienced and do it properly.
3.) You should have a sense of how much load the cabinet can still bear.
4.) Even after years, you should know exactly how each cabinet is installed.
I believe that regarding point 4, the people who will recommend this the quickest are often the ones who forget or give advice too hastily, which not everyone can follow. I am confident in doing such work myself, but I also wouldn’t consider having someone else assemble my kitchen. I have a skilled trade background, and my family is accustomed to this kind of handiwork. I don’t give advice on such matters unless I’m 100% sure that the original poster can handle it as well.
That’s why I am very cautious about statements like: “I did it this way, and it’s definitely going to hold.”
Consider points 1–4 carefully before relocating cabinet holes. Otherwise, it’s better to leave it alone.
Otherwise, just use a rail system like you did and attach the cabinets to that. It’s even easier than aligning each cabinet individually, and the 3–5cm (1–2 inches) gap on the side can be adjusted with a side panel if needed.
N
Nayla_106813 Dec 2012 11:03That’s right, Maverick, you should NEVER handle things you have no knowledge about. That can quickly lead to serious problems. When in doubt, it’s better to be cautious and call in a professional who guarantees their work.
I truly don’t mean this harshly. Unfortunately, I know of a case related to our house where a customer was almost crushed when a wall cabinet, including its contents, fell on top of her. The customer was seriously injured, and the family made claims against Ikea. In the end, it turned out that the mounting was poorly done. On one hand, the wrong wall plugs were used; on the other, the drywall was simply covered with a very thin plasterboard layer! Ikea was not found to be at fault, but the unpleasant consequences remain. And the customer is still in rehabilitation...
Therefore, NO EXPERIMENTS!
Regards
Nayla
I truly don’t mean this harshly. Unfortunately, I know of a case related to our house where a customer was almost crushed when a wall cabinet, including its contents, fell on top of her. The customer was seriously injured, and the family made claims against Ikea. In the end, it turned out that the mounting was poorly done. On one hand, the wrong wall plugs were used; on the other, the drywall was simply covered with a very thin plasterboard layer! Ikea was not found to be at fault, but the unpleasant consequences remain. And the customer is still in rehabilitation...
Therefore, NO EXPERIMENTS!
Regards
Nayla
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