ᐅ Prefab House vs. Solid Construction – Requesting Urgent Advice!
Created on: 16 Aug 2009 21:40
E
emrahx99
Hello,
we urgently need advice:
We really like the prefabricated house builder HUF. The houses and floor plans are exactly our style (timber-framed house 2000). Unfortunately, the price is quite high.
We have already bought a plot of land and now only need the right house.
Question:
HUF is like the Mercedes of prefabricated house builders. If we have a house built similarly in style by a general contractor using traditional masonry construction with some modifications, could that possibly be cheaper? Or is there no chance? Are prefabricated houses always less expensive than masonry construction?
We would be very grateful for any answers!!!
PS: The architect fees (structural engineering, planning, building permit / planning permission, etc.) are not included here, as we have already negotiated these costs with the land purchase since the plot belonged to a construction company.
we urgently need advice:
We really like the prefabricated house builder HUF. The houses and floor plans are exactly our style (timber-framed house 2000). Unfortunately, the price is quite high.
We have already bought a plot of land and now only need the right house.
Question:
HUF is like the Mercedes of prefabricated house builders. If we have a house built similarly in style by a general contractor using traditional masonry construction with some modifications, could that possibly be cheaper? Or is there no chance? Are prefabricated houses always less expensive than masonry construction?
We would be very grateful for any answers!!!
PS: The architect fees (structural engineering, planning, building permit / planning permission, etc.) are not included here, as we have already negotiated these costs with the land purchase since the plot belonged to a construction company.
parcus schrieb:
The installation behind the wall should be placed between the 60mm (2.4 inches) insulation plus the vapor barrier and the drywall with a minimum of 40mm (1.6 inches). I am having trouble fully understanding this explanation. Therefore, my request to parcus: Please include the problem you believe exists in the following list:
Wall construction of Climate Wall 40 from outside to inside: Scratch render – External thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) – Glass fiber plaster (GFP) – 140 mm (5.5 inches) timber frame including 140 mm (5.5 inches) insulation – Vapor retarder – Glass fiber plaster (GFP) – 60 mm (2.4 inches) timber frame including 60 mm (2.4 inches) insulation (part of the installation layer) – Glass fiber plaster (GFP) (part of the installation layer)
Thank you!
@hephta
It is important that the thermal insulation does not become damp, neither from the outside through the plaster nor from the inside due to condensation.
This primarily causes two problems: the loss of effectiveness of the insulation and the risk of mold developing within the insulation.
To prevent this, from the inside:
Inner lining:
12.5mm (0.5 inch) gypsum board, ideally installed in two layers with staggered joints as a heat storage, or even more layers if preferred.
Installation cavity 3–4cm (1.2–1.6 inches) thick with battens, depending on the number of gypsum board layers
(this creates a cavity for cables, pipes, sockets, switches, etc.)
Wall:
Vapor barrier sealed so that it can also pass a blower door test
(preventing condensation from entering the insulation)
for example, an OSB board installed according to structural requirements (to resist horizontal forces)
Timber stud frame with thermal insulation
for example, wood wool board or similar as the interior finish layer.
Vapor retarder
(this allows any moisture from inside the insulation to escape but prevents moisture from entering)
Facade:
can then again be, for example, a ventilated batten system
fiber cement board, wooden cladding, plaster base board with decorative plaster, etc.
Over the years, I have had very good experience with this approach.
Also, the homeowner can easily carry out interior finishing or even facade work themselves without affecting the warranty of the wall system.
Best regards
It is important that the thermal insulation does not become damp, neither from the outside through the plaster nor from the inside due to condensation.
This primarily causes two problems: the loss of effectiveness of the insulation and the risk of mold developing within the insulation.
To prevent this, from the inside:
Inner lining:
12.5mm (0.5 inch) gypsum board, ideally installed in two layers with staggered joints as a heat storage, or even more layers if preferred.
Installation cavity 3–4cm (1.2–1.6 inches) thick with battens, depending on the number of gypsum board layers
(this creates a cavity for cables, pipes, sockets, switches, etc.)
Wall:
Vapor barrier sealed so that it can also pass a blower door test
(preventing condensation from entering the insulation)
for example, an OSB board installed according to structural requirements (to resist horizontal forces)
Timber stud frame with thermal insulation
for example, wood wool board or similar as the interior finish layer.
Vapor retarder
(this allows any moisture from inside the insulation to escape but prevents moisture from entering)
Facade:
can then again be, for example, a ventilated batten system
fiber cement board, wooden cladding, plaster base board with decorative plaster, etc.
Over the years, I have had very good experience with this approach.
Also, the homeowner can easily carry out interior finishing or even facade work themselves without affecting the warranty of the wall system.
Best regards
@ parcus: So you see a defective wall structure in all Streif Haus walls?
Streif Haus has been installing ventilation systems "as standard" for several years now, currently from Zehnder. In your opinion, can these prevent internal moisture problems?
From the outside, are we therefore dependent on the airtightness of the construction (without a vapor barrier) made up of gypsum fiberboard, external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), and scratch render?
Doesn’t the current wall structure then pose a (significant) warranty risk for Streif Haus?
Streif Haus has been installing ventilation systems "as standard" for several years now, currently from Zehnder. In your opinion, can these prevent internal moisture problems?
From the outside, are we therefore dependent on the airtightness of the construction (without a vapor barrier) made up of gypsum fiberboard, external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), and scratch render?
Doesn’t the current wall structure then pose a (significant) warranty risk for Streif Haus?
@hephta
That may very well be the case, that the ventilation system significantly contributes to the indoor air concept here.
In the past, only Okal Haus and Streif Haus have been particularly prone to this.
I can also understand the desire to save costs during manufacturing.
However, when I see that renopan has specialized in this and is an “exclusive partner of Streif Haus” (according to their website),
I wish you good luck.
I would definitely take a closer look at the exterior wall on the north side shortly before the warranty period expires.
Best regards
That may very well be the case, that the ventilation system significantly contributes to the indoor air concept here.
In the past, only Okal Haus and Streif Haus have been particularly prone to this.
I can also understand the desire to save costs during manufacturing.
However, when I see that renopan has specialized in this and is an “exclusive partner of Streif Haus” (according to their website),
I wish you good luck.
I would definitely take a closer look at the exterior wall on the north side shortly before the warranty period expires.
Best regards
@hephta
I believe cracks should no longer be an issue. Large surface areas, especially indoors, probably won’t be constructed with chipboard anymore.
The biological assessments I have seen do not only refer to wood preservatives. Interior walls usually do not cause problems and are made of wood as well.
But as you said, hopefully that is a thing of the past.
You can also simply check around the electrical outlets, since they are installed before the vapor barrier. If there is any condensation, it could only occur in the 60mm (2.4 inches) insulation from the inside.
I have read that already, but I still wonder what the purpose is since the houses don’t have a ventilation system. I would have expected identical wall construction, as the stud frame is ultimately the supporting structure. Damp insulation is ineffective...
Best regards
I believe cracks should no longer be an issue. Large surface areas, especially indoors, probably won’t be constructed with chipboard anymore.
The biological assessments I have seen do not only refer to wood preservatives. Interior walls usually do not cause problems and are made of wood as well.
But as you said, hopefully that is a thing of the past.
You can also simply check around the electrical outlets, since they are installed before the vapor barrier. If there is any condensation, it could only occur in the 60mm (2.4 inches) insulation from the inside.
I have read that already, but I still wonder what the purpose is since the houses don’t have a ventilation system. I would have expected identical wall construction, as the stud frame is ultimately the supporting structure. Damp insulation is ineffective...
Best regards
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