ᐅ Poroton or Ytong – Insulation Values and More?

Created on: 26 May 2011 08:50
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Bambule03
Hello

We are planning our first house. It will be a solid (masonry) house. We have decided on a bungalow.

Which type of brick or block would you recommend to achieve good insulation values?
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ollyeden
26 May 2011 09:41
Due to the different behavior of construction materials (settling, etc.), I would personally recommend using a single type of material. I have also specified Poroton for the interior walls.
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Bambule03
26 May 2011 09:47
So, in summary, Poroton is also beneficial for a healthy indoor climate! But is it generally more complicated to work with?
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Bauexperte
26 May 2011 11:06
Hello,
Bambule03 schrieb:
Which brick would you recommend for achieving good insulation values?
Since quite a bit has already been said about Poroton, I will focus here on the material Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC).

**Poroton**

Poroton bricks (trade name: **Poroton**) are made from clay, loam, sand, and pore-forming agents (e.g., sawdust). The bricks are initially dried at temperatures below 100°C (212°F) and then fired at about 1000°C (1832°F).
Poroton bricks can be laid either as block bricks with lightweight mortar or as plane bricks with thin-bed mortar. Because the thick-bed method with lightweight mortar has some disadvantages, only plane bricks should be used nowadays.
For several years, Poroton bricks filled with perlite have been on the market. Compared to conventional hollow bricks, these offer better thermal insulation as well as improved fire and sound protection.
Walls made from hollow bricks without filling have higher thermal conductivity in the vertical direction, especially when laid with traditional thin-bed mortar that does not properly seal the holes (convection!).

**Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC)**

Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) is made from sand, lime, cement, water, and aluminum powder (a foaming agent). After cutting, the raw elements are cured under steam at 200°C (392°F).
AAC plane blocks are also laid with thin-bed mortar. The blocks are easy to process (e.g., sawing) and are popular among many self-builders.

With a wall thickness of 36.5 cm (14 inches), AAC provides optimal conditions for building an energy-efficient house. At the same time, two additional requirements important for modern building envelopes, alongside thermal insulation, can be met with this material: airtightness and minimizing thermal bridges.

This is due to the homogeneous structure of AAC, which has consistent thermal properties in all directions. Material-based thermal bridges, which occur when two materials with different thermal behaviors meet, are easily avoided.

Additionally, the individual components of the building system are uniformly coordinated and feature simple, reliable connection details. This prevents thermal bridges caused by improper workmanship from the start.

The precise manufacturing of the various building elements also enables accurate installation. The components of the system can be joined completely airtight and windproof. This ensures that warm indoor air cannot escape through open joints or gaps.

Besides excellent thermal insulation and an airtight building envelope, AAC also provides good heat storage. This protects living spaces from cooling down in winter and from overheating in summer. The result is a consistently comfortable surface temperature that ensures a healthy and balanced indoor climate throughout the year.

Kind regards

Small white 3D house model held in hand against blue background.


3D model of a red brick wall as a structural component.
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Bambule03
26 May 2011 11:40
It’s best to stick to one building material, so in my case, aerated concrete or clay blocks! Sand-lime brick is off the table!

The properties of aerated concrete, such as very important thermal insulation, are another reason I prefer Ytong!
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TomTom1
26 May 2011 13:59
Hello!

What should the walls be able to do? Except in the case of solid construction, thermal insulation is mainly provided by cavity insulation or external insulation systems (ETICS).

The insulation value of the mineral exterior walls is of secondary importance, and even less important for interior walls.

More important are soundproofing, structural stability, and fastening options; so: calcium silicate bricks, at least for the entire interior area!

Anyone who has ever tried to fix something to bricks or aerated concrete (tension rods for curtains, wall cabinets, etc.) will understand why.

Regards,
Tom.
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TomTom1
27 May 2011 07:22
Hello!

Not quite. The advice to use a uniform building material is not wrong. It’s also better to pay for the house in full right away. Sometimes you have to choose the lesser evil.

Otherwise: Unless you’re aiming for a passive house, exterior walls made of sand-lime brick (calcium silicate brick) will probably work fine—and everyone will be satisfied.

The suggestion that breathable brick walls matter is nonsense; try breathing through 2 cm (about 0.8 inches) of plaster! All the mentioned materials are vapor-permeable as long as you don’t install exterior insulation and finish systems (EIFS/plaster systems).

If you do go with bricks: the electrical outlets will be generously plastered over.

You’ll find supporters of every building method. Personally, I love sand-lime brick. Traditional brick and aerated concrete are also acceptable. Only timber frame with battens and membrane I find ridiculous.

Regards,
Tom.