Hello, I’m Christina (new to the forum)!
We are currently building a house and, once the project is completed, are considering adding a pool in the garden. What are your experiences? Can it be done as a DIY project? What type of heating have you chosen? How did it go for you?
Thanks in advance and best regards,
Christina
We are currently building a house and, once the project is completed, are considering adding a pool in the garden. What are your experiences? Can it be done as a DIY project? What type of heating have you chosen? How did it go for you?
Thanks in advance and best regards,
Christina
K
k-man202127 Apr 2022 19:21Hello @rick2018,
Although we are still quite far from the pool technology stage in our house planning (currently in the conceptual design phase), since we’re on the topic… What should I consider at this stage of planning and regarding the technology if we want to minimize the amount of work required for the pool? Our pool will be around 50 m³ (1,765 cubic feet). We would prefer stainless steel, but we’ll see how the prices turn out. Do you have any tips, maybe even regarding manufacturers?
Although we are still quite far from the pool technology stage in our house planning (currently in the conceptual design phase), since we’re on the topic… What should I consider at this stage of planning and regarding the technology if we want to minimize the amount of work required for the pool? Our pool will be around 50 m³ (1,765 cubic feet). We would prefer stainless steel, but we’ll see how the prices turn out. Do you have any tips, maybe even regarding manufacturers?
It always depends on how much you want to spend.
Use the house heating system or a separate heater.
Equipment inside the house or at the pool.
For stainless steel with good technology, for a 50m3 (1,765 ft3) pool, you should definitely budget around 60,000–100,000.
Overflow pool or not.
Adjustable pump from Speck, large filter, pool control—there are many options.
What exactly would you like to know?
Use the house heating system or a separate heater.
Equipment inside the house or at the pool.
For stainless steel with good technology, for a 50m3 (1,765 ft3) pool, you should definitely budget around 60,000–100,000.
Overflow pool or not.
Adjustable pump from Speck, large filter, pool control—there are many options.
What exactly would you like to know?
K
k-man202128 Apr 2022 19:57Hello @rick2018,
I have read a lot here in the forum, including your house thread and many tips about pools. We are still at the early planning stage for our house (location: Hesse, modern style, lots of glass, flat roof, hillside site) and it will still take some time until we reach the tender phase, but I’m always eager to learn more ;-)
Our pool (approx. 50 m³ (13,200 gallons)) will be in the shade in the afternoon due to the site conditions, so no full sun exposure. The planned length is about 11 m (36 feet) with a counter-current system. Heating is separate from the house and there is no gas available, so we will use an air-source heat pump (rough estimate around 30 kW (40 hp)). According to the current plan, the pool technology will be housed in a separate room within the house, which can only be accessed from outside and will also serve as a storage room for garden tools. We will install a leak detector and shut-off valves. The room size is about 35–40 m² (375–430 sq ft). We want as little maintenance as possible and a low chlorine level. The following questions interest me in particular:
P.S.: Edith says it won’t be an infinity pool
I have read a lot here in the forum, including your house thread and many tips about pools. We are still at the early planning stage for our house (location: Hesse, modern style, lots of glass, flat roof, hillside site) and it will still take some time until we reach the tender phase, but I’m always eager to learn more ;-)
Our pool (approx. 50 m³ (13,200 gallons)) will be in the shade in the afternoon due to the site conditions, so no full sun exposure. The planned length is about 11 m (36 feet) with a counter-current system. Heating is separate from the house and there is no gas available, so we will use an air-source heat pump (rough estimate around 30 kW (40 hp)). According to the current plan, the pool technology will be housed in a separate room within the house, which can only be accessed from outside and will also serve as a storage room for garden tools. We will install a leak detector and shut-off valves. The room size is about 35–40 m² (375–430 sq ft). We want as little maintenance as possible and a low chlorine level. The following questions interest me in particular:
- Advantages and disadvantages of saltwater electrolysis vs. inorganic chlorine with automatic dosing
- What is the basis for chlorine dosing, and what is the measurement parameter
- What space requirements does the pool technology need
- Which manufacturers/suppliers do you recommend? One company for the complete pool and system, or components from different suppliers
- What pump capacity, filter sizes, etc. are appropriate
- What maintenance tasks are required and what can be done by oneself
- Any other tips or points to watch out for
P.S.: Edith says it won’t be an infinity pool
Salt Electrolysis:
- separate electrolysis cell that requires electricity
- electrodes usually need to be replaced every two years
- salt concentration in the water must be monitored with an additional/separate sensor
- salt must be purchased and dissolved in the water
- stainless steel pool (even V4S) is not required. Maintenance effort is not feasible for private use
Some believe it is better for the skin because it supposedly contains no chlorine. However, this is not true. The chlorine level in the water is the same.
Inorganic Liquid Chlorine:
- dosing pump
- purchase chlorine canisters
- stainless steel pool (V4A or V4S) is easily possible
For both options
- same amount of chlorine in the water
- you need a pH dosing system to control the pH value
The chlorine amount is controlled in both cases by the redox value. This value indicates disinfecting speed based on conductivity. Because the water flows continuously through the measuring cell (when the pump is running), dosing is immediately adjusted as soon as the redox value falls below the intervention threshold.
The same applies to pH dosing.
Since you are not planning an overflow pool, you do not need a compensation tank. Therefore, the space requirement is limited to the filter, pump, control unit, dosing system, and canisters. The heat pump is located externally. Around 3m³ (106 ft³) of space is sufficient, allowing easy access to all components.
The filtration system should not be overdimensioned. It is better to have reserves for extreme conditions. It is preferable to circulate the water slowly and for a longer time rather than quickly and in a short cycle. With a variable-speed pump, you can increase power, for example, during a pool party.
- filter tank: 600mm to 800mm (24 to 31 inches)
- Speck Badu Delta-MK Eco VS pump, variable speed, low power consumption, efficient, and no sliding bearing but magnetic coupling. Mechanical seals are always the weak part. This is eliminated here.
- rod valve (Besgo) for automatic backwash
- pool cleaning robot such as Dolphin or Zodiac with wall cleaning feature
For counter-current system, propeller type is best, but they are expensive.
Pool Control:
- all-in-one package Bayrol Poolmanager includes everything: dosing technology, measuring cell with electrodes, control unit, lighting control, counter-current system, etc.
- Procon-ip allows more DIY options, less fancy
Stainless steel pool manufacturers like Polytherm have their own control systems. These are extremely reliable but not as “modern.” They can provide the complete package. You need to specify requirements for the pump and similar components.
Maintenance Tasks:
- replace canisters as needed. Fill level is calculated based on the dosed amount
- replace hoses in dosing pumps annually. Turn off pool, remove cover, disconnect hoses, install new hoses... both pumps done in 10 minutes
- occasionally add flocculant to the skimmer. A dedicated flocculation system is not necessary.
- calibrate electrodes once a year. Remove electrode from measuring cell, place in calibration fluid, and select calibration on control unit.
- robot handles about 95% of cleaning
- cover is essential. Prevents heat loss, reduces chlorine consumption. Sunlight breaks down chlorine. Less dirt and organic matter enter.
We winterize the pool actively but without heating. Circulation continues; when it gets cold, it runs 24 hours a day. No water level lowering or similar.
If you have roof space nearby, fill it with photovoltaic panels to supply power to the heat pump. Your climate is not very cold. If you want to start the swimming season early or extend it late into autumn, you will need a more powerful heat pump.
You will still need a net and brush.
Stainless steel is excellent. Unique water color. Dirt is easy to remove. In the worst case, 000 steel wool...
If I forgot anything or you have further questions, just ask.
- separate electrolysis cell that requires electricity
- electrodes usually need to be replaced every two years
- salt concentration in the water must be monitored with an additional/separate sensor
- salt must be purchased and dissolved in the water
- stainless steel pool (even V4S) is not required. Maintenance effort is not feasible for private use
Some believe it is better for the skin because it supposedly contains no chlorine. However, this is not true. The chlorine level in the water is the same.
Inorganic Liquid Chlorine:
- dosing pump
- purchase chlorine canisters
- stainless steel pool (V4A or V4S) is easily possible
For both options
- same amount of chlorine in the water
- you need a pH dosing system to control the pH value
The chlorine amount is controlled in both cases by the redox value. This value indicates disinfecting speed based on conductivity. Because the water flows continuously through the measuring cell (when the pump is running), dosing is immediately adjusted as soon as the redox value falls below the intervention threshold.
The same applies to pH dosing.
Since you are not planning an overflow pool, you do not need a compensation tank. Therefore, the space requirement is limited to the filter, pump, control unit, dosing system, and canisters. The heat pump is located externally. Around 3m³ (106 ft³) of space is sufficient, allowing easy access to all components.
The filtration system should not be overdimensioned. It is better to have reserves for extreme conditions. It is preferable to circulate the water slowly and for a longer time rather than quickly and in a short cycle. With a variable-speed pump, you can increase power, for example, during a pool party.
- filter tank: 600mm to 800mm (24 to 31 inches)
- Speck Badu Delta-MK Eco VS pump, variable speed, low power consumption, efficient, and no sliding bearing but magnetic coupling. Mechanical seals are always the weak part. This is eliminated here.
- rod valve (Besgo) for automatic backwash
- pool cleaning robot such as Dolphin or Zodiac with wall cleaning feature
For counter-current system, propeller type is best, but they are expensive.
Pool Control:
- all-in-one package Bayrol Poolmanager includes everything: dosing technology, measuring cell with electrodes, control unit, lighting control, counter-current system, etc.
- Procon-ip allows more DIY options, less fancy
Stainless steel pool manufacturers like Polytherm have their own control systems. These are extremely reliable but not as “modern.” They can provide the complete package. You need to specify requirements for the pump and similar components.
Maintenance Tasks:
- replace canisters as needed. Fill level is calculated based on the dosed amount
- replace hoses in dosing pumps annually. Turn off pool, remove cover, disconnect hoses, install new hoses... both pumps done in 10 minutes
- occasionally add flocculant to the skimmer. A dedicated flocculation system is not necessary.
- calibrate electrodes once a year. Remove electrode from measuring cell, place in calibration fluid, and select calibration on control unit.
- robot handles about 95% of cleaning
- cover is essential. Prevents heat loss, reduces chlorine consumption. Sunlight breaks down chlorine. Less dirt and organic matter enter.
We winterize the pool actively but without heating. Circulation continues; when it gets cold, it runs 24 hours a day. No water level lowering or similar.
If you have roof space nearby, fill it with photovoltaic panels to supply power to the heat pump. Your climate is not very cold. If you want to start the swimming season early or extend it late into autumn, you will need a more powerful heat pump.
You will still need a net and brush.
Stainless steel is excellent. Unique water color. Dirt is easy to remove. In the worst case, 000 steel wool...
If I forgot anything or you have further questions, just ask.
K
k-man202129 Apr 2022 00:09PERFECT!!! 🙂 🙂 🙂
Thank you very much, this is exactly the information that helps with planning! Photovoltaic panels are obviously a given; the entire roof will be covered.
Do you always put the cover on when the pool is not in use? Or only at night, or only when it’s fully sunny...?
Thanks again!
Thank you very much, this is exactly the information that helps with planning! Photovoltaic panels are obviously a given; the entire roof will be covered.
Do you always put the cover on when the pool is not in use? Or only at night, or only when it’s fully sunny...?
Thanks again!
It is always closed. The cover is only open when in use or when the robot is inside.
Without the cover, a lot of heat is lost, and there is also increased water evaporation.
Depending on the cover, it is also a safety issue to prevent anyone (e.g., children or animals) from drowning.
Without the cover, a lot of heat is lost, and there is also increased water evaporation.
Depending on the cover, it is also a safety issue to prevent anyone (e.g., children or animals) from drowning.
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