ᐅ Planning for a Semi-Detached House, Cost Estimation

Created on: 15 Jul 2012 10:52
B
Bluestar
B
Bluestar
15 Jul 2012 10:52
Hello,

we have the opportunity to buy a nice plot of land from the municipality, but it can only be developed with a semi-detached house. The development plan allows a ridge height of 6.50m (21 ft 4 in), a facade height of 11.00m (36 ft 1 in), and two full stories plus a roof (either gable or shed roof permitted). Our side will face southeast, with the west wall adjacent to the neighbor.

The building partner we have to coordinate with (heights and roof pitch must be the same) can only build relatively narrow and is currently planning a house 7.25m (23 ft 9 in) wide and 9.50m (31 ft 2 in) deep, so our separating wall would be 9.50m (31 ft 2 in) long. To reach around 140-150 m² (1500-1615 sq ft) of living space, the current plan includes two full stories plus an attic (with knee wall about 0.5m (20 in), roof pitch 30°) and a usable basement. This results in a relatively tall building overall (ridge height 6.50m (21 ft 4 in), facade height approx. 10.50m (34 ft 5 in)). His latest offer through a developer (solid construction, KfW70 energy standard) is 265,000 € including incidental costs. Is this realistic? The cost of the land is not included; this concerns only the house itself.

We are currently planning to have the house built by a local general contractor (GC), whose proposal was to handle planning, tendering, and construction management, but to choose the tradespeople together with us and not offer a fixed total price including all profit and risk surcharges. This could save us around 10%, but the risk would then be on us. We know the consultant quite well through various connections (friends, colleagues), and I believe he is trustworthy.

I find it difficult to make reasonable overall cost estimates and hope to get some help here.

Our plans are as follows:
- Living basement (i.e., within the insulated part of the house)
- Ground floor with large kitchen/dining area (table for 8) and small living room (separable, suitable as a guest room)
- Upper floor with 3 roughly equal-sized rooms (about 15 m² (161 sq ft) each) and a family bathroom
- Attic floor with a studio room

We might consider reducing the building depth on the south side by 1 meter (from 9.50m (31 ft 2 in) to 8.50m (28 ft)) to add a covered walkway in front of the window side, meaning our building would then be only 8.50 m deep, but could extend up to around 10.50 m (34 ft 5 in) wide.

The ground and upper floors together should not significantly exceed 130 m² (1400 sq ft), and they will be finished (painting etc. will be done by us), while basement and attic will remain unfinished at first. We aim for approximately a KfW55 energy standard.

What minimum costs should be expected with the following specifications:
- Basement (slab plus prefabricated concrete basement plus basement ceiling), external insulation and insulation under the slab
- Solid structural shell (e.g., 24 cm (9.5 in) Poroton blocks over two full stories, footprint approximately 10 x 8.50 m (33 x 28 ft), concrete ceilings?)
- Gable roof 30°, rafter insulation
- External insulation to achieve KfW55 standard (approximately 25 cm (10 in) external insulation on Poroton blocks, is this sufficient?)
- Passive house windows (triple glazed, PVC) installed in the insulation layer. The south side should have generous glazing to capture solar heat effectively.
- Staircase from basement to attic
- Lightning protection (since we would be the tallest building on the hill)

The fittings do not need to be high-end; standard quality is sufficient (e.g., tiles and sanitary fixtures). For the flooring on the ground floor, we are considering industrial parquet. Interior walls will be plastered and painted.

- Heating system
This is where it gets complicated, as I have ideas but I am unsure whether they work well together and are cost-effective:
- Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (I estimate around 11,500 €)
- Ground-source heat exchanger in the supply air stream (around 1,500 €, with DIY installation of piping)
- Solar thermal system with a 1000 l (264 gal) buffer tank (we are 4 people), approximately 5,000 €
- Backup heating by gas boiler or pellet stove (more expensive but avoids gas line installation) plus underfloor heating

Thank you very much for your help!
B
Bauexperte
15 Jul 2012 15:30
Hello
Bluestar schrieb:

His most recent offer from a general contractor (solid construction, KfW70 standard) amounts to €265,000 including additional costs. Is that realistic?

No one can seriously answer that because important details are unknown.
Bluestar schrieb:

We are currently planning to have the house built by a local general contractor, where his suggestion was to take over the design, tendering, and construction management, but to select the tradespeople together with us and not offer the entire package as a fixed total price including all profit and risk margins. This could save us about 10%, but the risk would then be on us.
We know the consultant quite well through various contacts (friends, colleagues), so I believe he is not trying to take advantage of us.

Is an architect involved in the process?
Bluestar schrieb:

I find it difficult to make reasonable estimates for the total price and hope to get some help here...

No one can give a reliable answer to these questions either because there are many variables in your planning. A more precise statement is only possible once the plans and the offer are finalized.

What stands out to me is that you want to use a construction method that I find unusual. Since you have to tender and award the trades individually anyway, you should definitely have a technical building equipment (TBE) design prepared before deciding on one technology or another; bring a TBE planner on board. Because you will be responsible for any awarding yourself and, in my opinion, you probably don’t have a deep understanding of energy-efficient houses or renewable energy systems (which is understandable), it would be safer to have someone at your side who is knowledgeable in this area.

Best regards
B
Bluestar
15 Jul 2012 22:55
Hello,
thank you for the quick response.
Bauexperte schrieb:

But there is already an architect involved, right?

Yes, there is. The consultant works for a large company that has been active in residential construction for over 20 years and, for example, has developed an entire area as a residential zone in the neighborhood where our plot is located. Their architects and MEP (mechanical, electrical, and plumbing) planners would take over the design.
Bauexperte schrieb:

No one can seriously answer these questions yet because there are many variables in your planning. More precise information will only be possible once the planning and offer are finalized.

We are expecting the first offer this week, possibly also one from our building partner’s supplier.
Bauexperte schrieb:

What strikes me is that you want to use a technique that seems unusual to me. Since you will have to tender and award the trades separately anyway, you should definitely commission an MEP planner and include them before deciding on one or another technology. Since you are fully responsible for any contracts and, in my opinion, don’t have much detailed knowledge about efficient houses or renewable energy systems (which is understandable), it would be safer to have someone knowledgeable by your side.

This is probably because we are currently gathering a lot of information and have some ideas in mind. That’s why I’m asking here, as I’m not sure if everything will technically fit together in the end. Originally, I aimed for a passive house standard, and there is one in our town built with the mentioned technology (controlled residential ventilation with heat recovery, ground-source heat exchanger with brine loop, solar thermal, and backup heating via a wood stove with a water jacket).
If we don’t reach the passive house standard (our new goal is KfW 55), it won’t work, so I planned for a higher heating capacity accordingly.
I generally consider the controlled residential ventilation sensible in a suitably airtight house. The ground-source heat exchanger is recommended on many information sites, also because the cost is manageable. From your point of view, what would you recommend?

In general, I am still unsure if awarding the trades individually is advisable and if this approach really offers potential savings (and if these savings will materialize), or if experience shows that a general contractor (GC) is the better option.

Thank you very much for your opinions.
S
Shism
17 Jul 2012 13:58
Knee wall height there then 0.5m (20 inches), roof pitch 30°

I’m not sure how tall you are or how you plan to use the attic... but even 2m (6 ft 7 in) away from the wall the ceiling height is only about 1.65m (5 ft 5 in). With such a low knee wall, you need a steeper roof pitch to make it practical as living space (at 45°, for example, at 2m (6 ft 7 in) from the wall the height would already be around 2.5m (8 ft 2 in)).
B
Bluestar
2 Oct 2012 10:53
Hello,
after some time, I want to revive this post. After long discussions with our construction partner (semi-detached house), we have found a solution for the overall building that suits both parties. Meanwhile, we also have a concrete offer from the construction company, which I would like to open for discussion here:

Semi-detached house with dimensions 9.00 m x 8.25 m (gable side and semi-detached party wall is 9 m), pitched roof with 38°. Two full floors, knee wall in the attic 0.00 m.
The semi-detached house will be fully basemented (finishing by owner),
ground floor and upper floor will be fully finished,
attic is declared as expandable (stairs to the attic will already be installed).

Price: €249,000 based on the scope of work description (which I only have in print, not electronically).

Here are some details from the scope of work description (Energy Saving Ordinance 2009):
Foundation: floor slab C20/25, thickness 12 cm (5 inches).

Basement:
Basement exterior walls also C20/25 with statically required strength and density,
basement interior walls made of calcium silicate masonry,
basement windows PVC, U-value 1.1 W/m²K, 80 x 60 cm (31 x 24 inches), quantity according to plan (3 units) including light wells,
thermal insulation according to scope of work: 80 mm (3 inches),
basement ceiling height 2.375 m (7 ft 9 in) (top of floor slab to underside of raw ceiling),
basement ceiling: reinforced concrete solid slab made of precast elements.

Shell construction:
Floor height from ground floor 2.625 m (8 ft 7 in) from top of rough floor to underside of raw ceiling,
exterior walls double-layered (inner masonry from hollow bricks, 17.5 cm (7 inches), exterior thermal insulation 14 cm (6 inches)),
alternative option for single-layer energy-saving masonry using clay bricks (Thermoplan) or aerated concrete (Hebel), wall thickness 36.5 cm (14 inches) possible,

party wall as double-layer soundproof masonry with separation joint,
installation preliminary walls for piping made of aerated concrete,
floor slabs like basement ceiling,
roller shutter boxes made of cement-bonded lightweight panels with interior wall insulation.

External plaster:
External thermal insulation composite system (Sto or equivalent), 14 cm (6 inches), B1 - WLG40,
at base area, base insulation boards WLG35 with water-repellent mesh plastering,
with single-layer construction: 2 layers of mineral external plaster.

Carpentry work:
Roof structure made of construction timber, roof overhang at eaves and gable each 50 cm (20 inches),
overhangs with visible boarding lying on rafters (16 mm (0.6 inch) spruce), painting see painting work.

Roof covering:
Concrete roof tiles (Braas),
gutters and downspouts made of titanium zinc.

Windows / Front door:
PVC, 5-chamber profiles (Schüco, Rehau),
hardware Roto,
glazing with thermal insulation glass in triple glazing (4/8/4/8/4 mm), U-value 0.7 W/m²K, sound insulation class II,
front door wood with glass panel, electric door opener, aluminum fittings.

Electrical:
15 circuit breakers, 4 RCD switches,
switches, sockets, and wiring according to plan,
door intercom system.

Sanitary:
Sanitary fixtures RENOVA or SANIBEL 3001,
fittings MEDIANO or Talis,
drain pipes Geberit DB20,
bathtub steel enamel 1700 mm x 750 mm (67 x 30 inches),
shower tray 900 x 900 mm, depth 150 mm (35 x 35 inches, 6 inches depth), steel enamel,
2 porcelain washbasins approx. 60 x 48 cm (24 x 19 inches),
1 porcelain hand basin approx. 45 x 35 cm (18 x 14 inches),
wall-hung toilets with concealed cistern insulated (2 units).

Heating:
Natural gas-fired, condensing technology Buderus, approx. 120-liter (32 gallons) domestic hot water storage tank,
panel radiators, underfloor heating optional (extra cost, see below),
solar system: 5.6 m² (60 ft²) collector area (sufficient up to 140 m² (1500 ft²) living space),
solar storage tank 300 liters (80 gallons).

Painting work:
Exterior wood painting (roof overhang),
filling and smoothing,
painting basement,
white painted woodchip wallpaper in living rooms.

Tiles:
Format 15 x 20 up to 30 x 30 cm (6 x 8 to 12 x 12 inches), thickness 0.8 cm (0.3 inch), laid in running bond, material price €25/m²,
guest WC tiled all around 1.20 m (4 ft) high, bathrooms and shower room tiled floor to ceiling,
floor tiles in basement hallway, hall, entrance area, kitchen, bathrooms, guest WC, storage room.

Floor covering:
Veneer parquet flooring, manufacturer Bauwerk SLIMWOOD in living-dining room on ground floor,
carpet in all other rooms (€20/m²),
wooden baseboards.

Plaster:
Interior walls one-layer smooth gypsum plaster.

Drywall and insulation:
Roof insulation 22 cm (9 inches) WLG35,
gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm (0.5 inch).

Stairs:
Load-bearing solid wood staircase, manufacturer Kohler/Bucher model VIVA.

Interior doors:
Laminate surface, approx. 4 cm (1.5 inches) thick, door leaf height approx. 198.5 cm (6 ft 6 in),
fittings aluminum, manufacturer Hoppe (Verona, Bonn, ...).

I hope this is enough for evaluation; I will try to scan the full scope of work description soon.

We now have the following extensions/changes in the offer:

Upgrade to KfW70 energy standard:

1. Heating system
- Heating as air-source heat pump, Stiebel Eltron type WPL for indoor installation including necessary control technology, buffer tank, etc.,
- underfloor heating with individual room control instead of radiators, electric towel heater in bathroom instead,
- gas boiler with exhaust flue Skoberne and solar system omitted,
Additional cost: €13,870.

2. Additional insulation:
- increase exterior wall insulation to 16 cm (6 inches) WLG35 instead of 24 cm (9 inches) WLG40,
- increase rafter height including roof insulation to 24 cm (9 inches) instead of 22 cm (9 inches),
- increase perimeter insulation of basement to 12 cm (5 inches) instead of 8 cm (3 inches),
Additional cost: €2,180.

A note states that according to their experience this achieves KfW70 efficiency house standard, but proof is still required.

Additionally, we want to carry out some painting (- €4,460) and floor covering (- €3,650) work as DIY.

Additional construction costs (surveyor fees, permits and inspections, connection fees, earthworks) are estimated at approx. €19,000.

Garage and garden work are not included and will be done by ourselves.

I now have many questions:
1. Heating technology – is it sensible? How ideally to combine it with a controlled ventilation system (costs?)?
2. Insulation and KfW70 realistic?
3. Overall costs realistic or is there room for further negotiation or adjustment?

Thank you very much.
W
Wastl
2 Oct 2012 11:20
Hi,
I just want to point out two issues where we needed prior discussion:
In the basement, you only have a ceiling height of 2.375 meters (7 ft 9.5 in), and then you’ll lose another 20 cm (8 inches) for insulation, screed, and floor covering (since you wanted to create a living basement). That leaves you with a room height of 2.17 meters (7 ft 1.5 in). I’m not sure if you’ll feel comfortable with that; from my perspective, it feels a bit cramped, especially since the exterior walls are concrete, which isn’t very appealing.
If you’re finishing the basement yourself (we did too), you’ll be installing the electrical work on your own. We had a discussion about connecting the basement electrical system to the meter cabinet. The electrician from the builder didn’t want to take responsibility for the basement wiring and only made the connection after I opened the distribution boxes to show him how we had wired everything. You should clarify this in advance.