ᐅ Positioning the house, garage, or carport on the property
Created on: 14 Aug 2018 08:29
G
Grantlhaua
Development Plan/Restrictions
Plot size: 883m² (9500 sq ft)
Slope: gentle slope, about 1m (3.3 ft) rise over 10m (33 ft)
Building window, building line and boundary: standard
Edge construction: possible for garage
Number of parking spaces: 2 in the garage
Number of floors: 2 full stories
Roof type: hipped roof
Style: modern
Orientation: south
Maximum heights/limits: based on the existing terrain according to the district office
Client Requirements
The floor plan of the house is fixed, but it will be completely mirrored from west to east
House Design
Designed by:
- Architect
What do you particularly like? Why? The front door located between the garage and the house
What do you dislike? Why?
Estimated price according to architect/planner: 420,000 (our estimate about 500,000 all in)
Personal price limit for the house, including fixtures: 500,000
Preferred heating system: air-source heat pump
If you have to give up something, which details or additions
- can you give up: nothing
- cannot give up: garage, workshop
What is the most important fundamental question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
The floor plan is basically fixed, but for noise (street) and privacy reasons, we want to mirror the whole house so the garage, front door, bay window, house, and terrace are positioned from west to east.
Unfortunately, this has sparked many discussions because the plot was gifted to us by family whose house behind is slightly elevated (about 3m (10 ft), on the north side). They fear their house will no longer be visible from the south if we move the garage to within 2–3m (6.5–10 ft) of the western boundary. However, if we move it back 6–7m (20–23 ft) to where the current house corner is, there is about 80m² (860 sq ft) of "wasted space" between the boundary, street, driveway, and garage. Do you have any ideas on how to make use of this space or avoid it altogether without compromising the rest of the design?
The images still show the old version, as we will only redesign once we find a solution...
Thank you very much!
Plot size: 883m² (9500 sq ft)
Slope: gentle slope, about 1m (3.3 ft) rise over 10m (33 ft)
Building window, building line and boundary: standard
Edge construction: possible for garage
Number of parking spaces: 2 in the garage
Number of floors: 2 full stories
Roof type: hipped roof
Style: modern
Orientation: south
Maximum heights/limits: based on the existing terrain according to the district office
Client Requirements
The floor plan of the house is fixed, but it will be completely mirrored from west to east
House Design
Designed by:
- Architect
What do you particularly like? Why? The front door located between the garage and the house
What do you dislike? Why?
Estimated price according to architect/planner: 420,000 (our estimate about 500,000 all in)
Personal price limit for the house, including fixtures: 500,000
Preferred heating system: air-source heat pump
If you have to give up something, which details or additions
- can you give up: nothing
- cannot give up: garage, workshop
What is the most important fundamental question about the floor plan summarized in 130 characters?
The floor plan is basically fixed, but for noise (street) and privacy reasons, we want to mirror the whole house so the garage, front door, bay window, house, and terrace are positioned from west to east.
Unfortunately, this has sparked many discussions because the plot was gifted to us by family whose house behind is slightly elevated (about 3m (10 ft), on the north side). They fear their house will no longer be visible from the south if we move the garage to within 2–3m (6.5–10 ft) of the western boundary. However, if we move it back 6–7m (20–23 ft) to where the current house corner is, there is about 80m² (860 sq ft) of "wasted space" between the boundary, street, driveway, and garage. Do you have any ideas on how to make use of this space or avoid it altogether without compromising the rest of the design?
The images still show the old version, as we will only redesign once we find a solution...
Thank you very much!
G
Grantlhaua24 Aug 2018 09:33kbt09 schrieb:
Also, I left the back panel of the base cabinets in the kitchen island open. The trick is to choose base cabinets without a back panel on the kitchen side. That way, you can use the space to store things like a used water container, glass recycling, and paper recycling directly in the transport containers. They are accessible from the kitchen side, and when you go shopping, you can take the transport containers out from the hallway side for disposal. If you buy a new used water container, just place it there from the hallway side.That’s a really clever idea!
kbt09 schrieb:
In the kitchen corner bottom right, a fixed window element facing the terrace/garden... it could be floor-to-ceiling, or for example, have a seating sill height.We already have that, and I really like it a lot!
kbt09 schrieb:
Connecting a freezer cabinet with an ice makerWe will get that. Unfortunately, there is only one built-in freezer cabinet with an internal ice dispenser.
Now you have simply cut out the pantry, which is actually not an option because that is one of my partner’s main priorities. Nevertheless, I will incorporate your suggestions into our plans, even though we both don’t really care for that kind of tall cabinet wall visually.
Thank you for your effort and the time you have taken!
No, it’s just accessible from the hallway, and the kitchen itself offers enough storage space for pasta and canned goods (KF ) ... see my post. Additionally, the pantry storage from the hallway provides extra space for kitchen rolls, toilet paper, etc., and there is this double-sided storage in the base kitchen cabinets.
I think this is the better solution because for long-term supplies you also still have the basement.
Just try running through different situations, then do the highly recommended storage planning.
This kitchen offers:
What’s important is the good division into pull-outs and drawers, carcass at least 78 cm (31 inches) high, 6-grid system. Better to have one more level than endlessly tall pull-outs where everything just gets stacked, etc.
I think this is the better solution because for long-term supplies you also still have the basement.
Just try running through different situations, then do the highly recommended storage planning.
This kitchen offers:
- 480 cm (189 inches) of base cabinet storage with pull-outs in standard depth (dishwasher not included)
- 270 cm (106 inches) of base cabinet storage with pull-outs at 50 cm (20 inches) depth
- 120 cm (47 inches) of base cabinet storage with internal pull-outs specifically for pantry items under the ovens
- 160 cm (63 inches) of base cabinet storage with doors accessible from both front and back
- 120 cm (47 inches) of storage starting at approx. 152 cm (60 inches) height with usable height of about 70 cm (28 inches) for larger items (above the ovens)
- 160 cm (63 inches) of storage starting at approx. 182 cm (72 inches) height with usable height of about 35 cm (14 inches) for containerized items for easier access, for very rarely used items (above the worktop in the tall cabinet wall)
- 120 cm (47 inches) of storage starting at approx. 195 cm (77 inches) height with usable height of about 22 cm (9 inches) for truly rarely used items (above the refrigeration units)
What’s important is the good division into pull-outs and drawers, carcass at least 78 cm (31 inches) high, 6-grid system. Better to have one more level than endlessly tall pull-outs where everything just gets stacked, etc.
G
Grantlhaua24 Aug 2018 10:07@kbt09
Thank you very much! Once the garage issue is resolved, I will review the mentioned points and your posts again. We still have some flexibility in the kitchen planning...
Thank you very much! Once the garage issue is resolved, I will review the mentioned points and your posts again. We still have some flexibility in the kitchen planning...
Ok.
Played around a bit more with the garage:
To the south, a kind of pergola that can be continued at the driveway as a simple post and crossbeam structure. Storage room now located on the north side, garage exit leading into the house entrance area.
Also roughly sketched the maneuvering start. The driveway should be about 650 cm (21 feet 4 inches) long. There would still be around 4 m (13 feet 1 inch) left to the east... would that be enough for you?
Played around a bit more with the garage:
To the south, a kind of pergola that can be continued at the driveway as a simple post and crossbeam structure. Storage room now located on the north side, garage exit leading into the house entrance area.
Also roughly sketched the maneuvering start. The driveway should be about 650 cm (21 feet 4 inches) long. There would still be around 4 m (13 feet 1 inch) left to the east... would that be enough for you?
G
Grantlhaua24 Aug 2018 11:39kbt09 schrieb:
I also roughly recorded the maneuvering start. The driveway should then be just under 650 cm (21 feet 4 inches). That leaves about 4 m (13 feet) towards the east.. would that be enough for you?Which software are you using for this? You're excellent!
The driveway is now at least 6.5 m (21 feet 4 inches), more likely 7.5 m (24 feet 7 inches). I’m considering relocating the storage room door to the front side facing the yard for better access.
I’m also thinking about setting the garage 0.5 m (1 foot 8 inches) lower and adding two more courses of bricks at the top, since there’s a slope of about 0.5–0.7 m (1 foot 8 inches–2 feet 4 inches) towards the street. I could then create the path alongside the garage as a “ramp.” What do you think about that? However, a small retaining wall would be needed on the north side.
kbt09 schrieb:
To the south, a sort of pergola could be extended along the driveway using just posts and horizontal beams on top.That will create a great visual impact and is already a big part of successful garden design.
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