K
kitejack-13 Nov 2011 19:19I have purchased a small house in France, located by an étang (a saltwater lake with sea access). The floor plan is approximately 4x5 meters (13x16 feet). It is about 15 years old. The foundation walls are gradually becoming damp and wet. From autumn to spring, there are often foggy days lasting several days, which also causes moisture from the étang to affect the ground. The house has no basement and is built on a simple foundation.
I have read a lot about electroosmosis. There are as many opinions as there are people—about 20 people, 20 different views...!
Since the house is in a nature reserve, it has no electricity.
Now my questions about passive electroosmosis:
Do the copper wires need to be bare or insulated?
What cross-section should the copper wire have?
How do you measure the resistance between the "anode" (copper nail) and the "cathode" (iron anchor)?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
I have read a lot about electroosmosis. There are as many opinions as there are people—about 20 people, 20 different views...!
Since the house is in a nature reserve, it has no electricity.
Now my questions about passive electroosmosis:
Do the copper wires need to be bare or insulated?
What cross-section should the copper wire have?
How do you measure the resistance between the "anode" (copper nail) and the "cathode" (iron anchor)?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
M
MODERATOR4 Nov 2011 12:35Hello,
DIY electroosmosis won't work, especially since the passive method for drying masonry is ineffective. The principle of passive electroosmosis itself has been known since the late 19th century, but it is simply not suitable for drying out masonry. This conclusion is consistently confirmed when consulting experts or engineers in construction and building physics—you can ask 20 specialists and receive the same answer 20 times.
DIY electroosmosis won't work, especially since the passive method for drying masonry is ineffective. The principle of passive electroosmosis itself has been known since the late 19th century, but it is simply not suitable for drying out masonry. This conclusion is consistently confirmed when consulting experts or engineers in construction and building physics—you can ask 20 specialists and receive the same answer 20 times.