Hello parquet enthusiasts,
we are building a one-and-a-half-story house and plan to install oak country-style plank flooring. We have a large L-shaped room for the living/dining area and open kitchen (about 60m² (645 sq ft)). We intend to install and glue the flooring ourselves. However, some craftsman friends strongly advised against doing it ourselves. We have installed laminate flooring several times before and feel confident about that. Does engineered wood flooring really have to be installed only by a professional?
We understand that an expansion joint will likely need to be incorporated (where the corner of the L is, or where the screed will have an expansion joint).
We would also be interested in your experiences with underfloor heating and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery regarding the lower indoor humidity. Because of these conditions, some specialists have advised us against parquet, as larger gaps can occur in winter, which is less suitable for wooden flooring.
Thank you for your feedback,
sunny84
we are building a one-and-a-half-story house and plan to install oak country-style plank flooring. We have a large L-shaped room for the living/dining area and open kitchen (about 60m² (645 sq ft)). We intend to install and glue the flooring ourselves. However, some craftsman friends strongly advised against doing it ourselves. We have installed laminate flooring several times before and feel confident about that. Does engineered wood flooring really have to be installed only by a professional?
We understand that an expansion joint will likely need to be incorporated (where the corner of the L is, or where the screed will have an expansion joint).
We would also be interested in your experiences with underfloor heating and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery regarding the lower indoor humidity. Because of these conditions, some specialists have advised us against parquet, as larger gaps can occur in winter, which is less suitable for wooden flooring.
Thank you for your feedback,
sunny84
Hello "Pound".
Not all hardwood flooring is the same. When we talk about engineered wood flooring (formerly called pre-finished parquet), the wear layer of wood can usually be sanded at least once, but often up to three times.
The number of possible or necessary sanding processes depends on the extent and depth of the scratches.
Typically, engineered wood flooring is sanded after 10 to 13 years of normal residential use, or after 8 years with heavy use.
I have never encountered a “patina” on wood or wood-based materials. However, the term is sometimes misused to describe “surface changes caused by wear and aging.” This means a lot but says very little, admittedly.
Where you install which type of flooring is a matter of personal taste and the amount you want to invest.
For purely practical reasons, cork flooring is a good choice for areas where foot warmth is needed, engineered wood flooring for a home office (chair casters should have soft wheels!!), and for a gym either wood flooring or a rubber floor covering (synthetic rubber flooring).
If a dumbbell accidentally falls on a rubber floor bonded to the subfloor, it simply bounces.
With wood flooring, however, no one is laughing...
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Good luck: KlaRa
Not all hardwood flooring is the same. When we talk about engineered wood flooring (formerly called pre-finished parquet), the wear layer of wood can usually be sanded at least once, but often up to three times.
The number of possible or necessary sanding processes depends on the extent and depth of the scratches.
Typically, engineered wood flooring is sanded after 10 to 13 years of normal residential use, or after 8 years with heavy use.
I have never encountered a “patina” on wood or wood-based materials. However, the term is sometimes misused to describe “surface changes caused by wear and aging.” This means a lot but says very little, admittedly.
Where you install which type of flooring is a matter of personal taste and the amount you want to invest.
For purely practical reasons, cork flooring is a good choice for areas where foot warmth is needed, engineered wood flooring for a home office (chair casters should have soft wheels!!), and for a gym either wood flooring or a rubber floor covering (synthetic rubber flooring).
If a dumbbell accidentally falls on a rubber floor bonded to the subfloor, it simply bounces.
With wood flooring, however, no one is laughing...
------------------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
Hello, thanks for the quick response.
Yes, it’s about engineered wood flooring. None of the mentioned rooms have underfloor heating, so I prefer a floating installation. For the subfloor, I was thinking of cork.
Even with only 2.5mm?
Yes, the “patina” was probably just a term describing wear and tear; people like to put things in a nicer light sometimes, which is why I included it in my question.
My concern is that the floor doesn’t look “dirty/worn out” after 2-3 years. I want a high-quality floor for that kind of money that will look good for a long time (assuming proper care and careful handling), but some posts make it seem like you have to treat wood flooring with kid gloves, and even then it doesn’t stay looking good for long.
I’m torn between laminate and wood flooring, and I don’t want to regret my decision in the end.
Yes, it’s about engineered wood flooring. None of the mentioned rooms have underfloor heating, so I prefer a floating installation. For the subfloor, I was thinking of cork.
KlaRa schrieb:
Wood flooring isn’t all the same. If we’re talking about engineered wood flooring (formerly known as pre-finished wood flooring), the top hardwood layer can be sanded at least once, usually up to three times.
Even with only 2.5mm?
KlaRa schrieb:
I’ve never encountered a “patina” with wood or wood-based materials.
Yes, the “patina” was probably just a term describing wear and tear; people like to put things in a nicer light sometimes, which is why I included it in my question.
My concern is that the floor doesn’t look “dirty/worn out” after 2-3 years. I want a high-quality floor for that kind of money that will look good for a long time (assuming proper care and careful handling), but some posts make it seem like you have to treat wood flooring with kid gloves, and even then it doesn’t stay looking good for long.
I’m torn between laminate and wood flooring, and I don’t want to regret my decision in the end.
A floor covering will never look "dirty or worn" if it is properly (regularly) maintained and cleaned!
Who could judge this better than a recognized expert in this field? Every multilayer parquet floor can be sanded down, which is why about 10 years ago the minimum wear layer thickness was increased from 2.0 to 2.5mm (0.08 to 0.1 inches). When sanding, expect a material removal of about 0.5 to 1mm (0.02 to 0.04 inches), so you can sand it at least once without exposing the core layer.
You don’t have to handle parquet “with kid gloves,” but there are some important things to consider. The indoor climate is crucial, which the homeowner must always keep an eye on. Air that is too dry (below 40% relative humidity) should not prevail over a long period. Also, avoid chamfered edges; although they look good at first, dirt accumulates in the grooves and the chamfer wears away after the first sanding.
Otherwise, a wooden floor is quite robust.
On one point I must give praise:
You first think about what fits – and you save yourself from disappointment later on.
However, based on my experience, disappointment would not be unlikely if you opted for a laminate floor instead...
First, take a look at cork. There are many surfaces available, ranging from “lively” to “dull” (my personal definition, sorry) and different material thicknesses.
Naturally, you get what you pay for. That’s a logic that should be clear. And if you choose cork, avoid dyed or bleached surfaces.
----------------
KlaRa
Who could judge this better than a recognized expert in this field? Every multilayer parquet floor can be sanded down, which is why about 10 years ago the minimum wear layer thickness was increased from 2.0 to 2.5mm (0.08 to 0.1 inches). When sanding, expect a material removal of about 0.5 to 1mm (0.02 to 0.04 inches), so you can sand it at least once without exposing the core layer.
You don’t have to handle parquet “with kid gloves,” but there are some important things to consider. The indoor climate is crucial, which the homeowner must always keep an eye on. Air that is too dry (below 40% relative humidity) should not prevail over a long period. Also, avoid chamfered edges; although they look good at first, dirt accumulates in the grooves and the chamfer wears away after the first sanding.
Otherwise, a wooden floor is quite robust.
On one point I must give praise:
You first think about what fits – and you save yourself from disappointment later on.
However, based on my experience, disappointment would not be unlikely if you opted for a laminate floor instead...
First, take a look at cork. There are many surfaces available, ranging from “lively” to “dull” (my personal definition, sorry) and different material thicknesses.
Naturally, you get what you pay for. That’s a logic that should be clear. And if you choose cork, avoid dyed or bleached surfaces.
----------------
KlaRa
KlaRa schrieb:
When sanding, you can expect a material removal of between 0.5 and 1 millimeter (0.02 to 0.04 inches), so it’s possible to sand at least once without exposing the core layer.Okay, perfect, that’s enough. I don’t want to make the floor a lifelong project. If it can handle a one-time renovation after 10 to 12 years and last about the same time until the next renovation, I would be completely satisfied.
KlaRa schrieb:
Very dry air (below 40% relative humidity) should not be present continuously.That should be doable; I have a hygrometer and an automatic humidifier.
KlaRa schrieb:
First, take a look at cork. There are many surface options, from "lively" to "dull" (my personal definitions, sorry) and various material thicknesses. Naturally, you get what you pay for. A logic that should be clear. And if you choose cork, avoid dyed or limed surfaces.I hadn’t really considered cork or quickly dismissed it because I know two people who used cork in their homes. One’s cork faded badly in sunlight, and the other’s developed permanent imprints from furniture.
Those were the reasons I didn’t want to think more about cork.
Today, I’m going to a large local showroom, where I’ll take a closer look at cork.
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