ᐅ Painting, varnishing, or replacing wooden windows and interior doors?
Created on: 9 Jan 2023 12:32
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Alibert87
I need some experience and tips again on the topic of "refreshing old, dark windows and doors."
The door leaves and frames are real wood veneer, and the window frames are solid wood. Our building inspector said that technically everything is fine and replacement is not necessary, so we want to keep all components.
The goal is to make everything light (white, light beige, for example), which is obviously much cheaper than replacement. Is this something you can realistically do yourself, or is it better to hire a painter or carpenter?
Does anyone know roughly what this costs per door and window?
Thanks!
The door leaves and frames are real wood veneer, and the window frames are solid wood. Our building inspector said that technically everything is fine and replacement is not necessary, so we want to keep all components.
The goal is to make everything light (white, light beige, for example), which is obviously much cheaper than replacement. Is this something you can realistically do yourself, or is it better to hire a painter or carpenter?
Does anyone know roughly what this costs per door and window?
Thanks!
A
Alibert8718 Jan 2023 11:16Grundaus schrieb:
If the doors are from the 1970s, are the windows from that time as well? Although good mahogany tropical wood was used back then and painted with the good (= toxic) stuff, I would replace the windows. You can replace just the glass, but I would only go for triple glazing now. No, we’re not replacing the windows.
They will be repainted, fitted with new seals, and adjusted.
They are from 1981 (wood, double-glazed).
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Alibert8718 Jan 2023 11:17Can anyone comment on the quality of these doors?
According to my father-in-law, there are actually only three or four manufacturers of mass-produced interior doors in Germany, and they all offer very similar products. The rest are resellers.
So, it will probably be just as good or bad as most of the other "known" brands. More important than the brand is the quality level, and hollow-core particleboard is the second grade from the bottom. I have those myself and have been satisfied so far.
By the way, Hori is just a brand of Holz-Richter, and they are "only" wood traders. Unfortunately, I don’t know who the actual manufacturer is, but see above.
So, it will probably be just as good or bad as most of the other "known" brands. More important than the brand is the quality level, and hollow-core particleboard is the second grade from the bottom. I have those myself and have been satisfied so far.
By the way, Hori is just a brand of Holz-Richter, and they are "only" wood traders. Unfortunately, I don’t know who the actual manufacturer is, but see above.
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Alibert8718 Jan 2023 11:37Tolentino schrieb:
. More important than the brand is the "grade," and chipboard with tubes is the second from the bottom. I have that too and so far am satisfied.
What do you mean by grade? And which one do you have? This Valencia model?
Sorry, I meant the quality level of the core material. Honeycomb core is the cheapest. Then comes tubular chipboard, which actually has two different types: tubular chipboard beams and tubular chipboard panels (in ascending order). After that, there is solid chipboard, and finally solid wood (which is nowadays unaffordable; some even say it performs worse than solid chipboard in terms of sound insulation).
I meant, I also have tubular chipboard (panel) from Lebo (Lebolit-CPL). Even installed with my father-in-law (let’s say he did the installation, and I watched a bit more closely). They were all fine. Once, I accidentally chipped a part off a door frame with a door leaf, so CPL isn’t super tough, but the same would probably have happened with paint as well.
In terms of sound insulation, now not much more noise passes through the door than through the wall, but if you want to achieve better soundproofing, you probably need soundproof doors (which usually have a drop seal that closes the gap at the bottom).
I meant, I also have tubular chipboard (panel) from Lebo (Lebolit-CPL). Even installed with my father-in-law (let’s say he did the installation, and I watched a bit more closely). They were all fine. Once, I accidentally chipped a part off a door frame with a door leaf, so CPL isn’t super tough, but the same would probably have happened with paint as well.
In terms of sound insulation, now not much more noise passes through the door than through the wall, but if you want to achieve better soundproofing, you probably need soundproof doors (which usually have a drop seal that closes the gap at the bottom).
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Alibert8718 Jan 2023 11:49Tolentino schrieb:
Sorry, I meant the quality level of the filling. So honeycomb core is the cheapest. Then comes tubular chipboard, although there are actually two different types: tubular chipboard bars and tubular chipboard panels (in ascending order). Then there is solid chipboard, and finally solid wood (which is unaffordable nowadays, but some say it even performs worse than solid chipboard in terms of sound insulation).
I meant, I also have tubular chipboard (panel) from Lebo (Lebolit-CPL). Installed even with my father-in-law (let’s say he did the installation and I watched a bit). They were all fine. Once I accidentally chipped some material off a door frame with a door leaf, so the CPL isn’t super resistant, but that probably would have happened with paint too.
In terms of sound, we don’t get much more noise through the door than through the wall, but if you want to achieve something better, you probably need soundproof doors (which usually have a drop-down seal and close the gap underneath the door). Okay, thanks! So whether painted or CPL is just a matter of design?
What did you pay for the door and frame (and when)?
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