ᐅ Overview of Cost-Effective Building Styles

Bauexperte schrieb:
Where does this unstoppable desire to definitely build a new house come from, when the answers here in the forum should make it clear that—even if at all—it’s only feasible with enormous risks? What speaks against a good existing property?

Regards, Bauexperte

As I said, we already built a new house together with my parents-in-law back in 2009 and currently live in a modern home with upscale features (solid construction, heat pump, electric blinds, high-end sanitary fixtures, home cinema, etc.).

I hope it’s understandable that we don’t want to downgrade now, which is basically why we have requirements like a double garage and so on.

I’m considering whether to put the $1,000 monthly “rent” to my father-in-law into my own property instead, but it seems the starting conditions (too little equity) aren’t right yet. I should mention that we recently paid for a nearly new vehicle from savings and also our entire home furnishings including the home cinema were paid from savings. What I mean is, the current €30,000 (about $33,000) in equity can be used entirely for building the house since we already have the furnishings for the new home.

Then I understand the desire for a new build, of course. However, you should clearly lower your expectations or save for a few more years to increase your equity!

It remains for you to check whether you want to raise your budget – if your income is sufficiently high and secure, there is nothing against it.

Roof style:
In my experience, gable roofs and shed roofs are the most cost-effective roof types.

Basement:
You can save a lot of money by skipping the basement, but you also lose some of the functional space in the house. Simply counting the basement costs as savings is misleading; without a basement, the house needs to be designed larger to provide enough space for the heating or technical room and storage area, or larger garages or garden sheds need to be planned instead. These additional costs must be balanced against the basement savings.

Expensive options
- Bay windows, projections, recesses
- Roof windows (skylights) are more expensive than regular windows, especially if shutters are desired
- Balcony (which is rarely used anyway if you have a terrace)
- Living room access to the terrace via sliding door

Affordable options
- Increase knee wall height
- Larger windows instead of smaller ones

At our construction company, you can estimate around €1900 (about $2050) per square meter of living space. The following costs are not included in this calculation: basement, architect, structural engineering, utility connections, surveying, soil report, building inspector, extras such as geothermal systems, ventilation systems, increased ceiling heights, sliding doors, electric shutters, etc.

Hello,

jx7 schrieb:

In my experience, gable roofs and mono-pitched roofs are the most cost-effective roof types.

In my experience, the flat roof (FD) is the most affordable option, followed by the saddle roof (SD), the hip roof (WD), with the mono-pitched roof (PD) being the least economical. To avoid raising exaggerated expectations: I am talking about a price difference of around 10,000 euros (approx. $11,000) from the flat roof to the mono-pitched roof; this applies to straightforward architectural designs without projections.

jx7 schrieb:

Simply counting basement costs as savings is an oversimplification; without a basement, the house must be planned larger to provide enough space for the heating or technical room and storage area, or alternatively, larger garages or garden sheds need to be considered. These additional costs must be offset against the saved basement costs.

That is basically correct; however, in my opinion, it should be noted that even if the building footprint increases due to the larger house area, the savings remain well within a five-figure range. Building above ground is simply less expensive than underground construction. The homeowner planning in this way also avoids—at the first step—unpredictable risks related to potentially necessary earthworks, sealing according to relevant standards such as DIN yxz, and so on. Assuming that most homeowners make full use of their property’s building envelope, the saved capital is even more significant. A prefabricated garage—even one sized 3.00 x 9.00 meters (10 x 30 feet)—costs around 12,000 euros (approx. $13,000), including sectional doors and strip foundations, which is not a major expense and can also be added afterwards; a garden shed requires no building permit and is also affordable.

A house does not necessarily need to be built larger in advance due to space requirements for technical equipment. On the one hand, it depends on smart floor plan design, and on the other, the attic often offers space to accommodate technical installations. The safety tank required for the water storage does not cost much.

I have often seen designs for single-family homes of 180 square meters (approx. 1,940 square feet) or more where I wondered who had created such poor plans, including here. Conversely, there are semi-detached house designs of about 150 square meters (approx. 1,615 square feet) including a converted attic, which after moving in, comfortably accommodated a six-person family and still provided sufficient private living space, technical rooms, and storage.

jx7 schrieb:

With our construction company, you can calculate about 1,900 euros (approx. $2,100) per square meter (approx. 10.8 square feet) of living area.

This figure roughly matches my experience for Rhineland-Palatinate; however, in my opinion, it is more reliable for potential homeowners to base calculations on the price per square meter (square footage) of the building footprint.

Regards, Bauexperte

Bauexperte schrieb:
Conversely, there are plans for a semi-detached house around 150 sqm (including converted attic), which has been occupied by a family of six and still provided enough space for private living areas for all residents, technical installations, and sufficient storage rooms.

Do you have a link to that here in the forum?

We have an appointment with our construction company on Monday; I’m curious to see the outcome.

The loan amount of 300,000 EUR is somewhat of a “mental barrier” for me. Maybe it’s possible to increase it, but then the equity ratio would get worse. However, a meeting at several banks, which will take place after the discussion with the construction company, will clarify this.

Until then, thanks again for all the opinions and advice.