Hello everyone,
we have the opportunity to have a separate water line installed directly from the main supply through the basement wall into the garden on short notice. The goal is to enable an irrigation system later on. However, there is no detailed planning for this yet, and the installation of the system itself will take place after we move in. The available garden area is over 1000m² (10,764 ft²). For now, we would only have the line installed into the garden so that splash protection and paving can be added later without obstruction.
The company is now asking us about the preferred pipe diameter and suggests 3/4 inch. Without much expertise, that seems rather small to me. A larger pipe hardly increases the cost, but what would be a sensible diameter? 1 inch?
Best regards
we have the opportunity to have a separate water line installed directly from the main supply through the basement wall into the garden on short notice. The goal is to enable an irrigation system later on. However, there is no detailed planning for this yet, and the installation of the system itself will take place after we move in. The available garden area is over 1000m² (10,764 ft²). For now, we would only have the line installed into the garden so that splash protection and paving can be added later without obstruction.
The company is now asking us about the preferred pipe diameter and suggests 3/4 inch. Without much expertise, that seems rather small to me. A larger pipe hardly increases the cost, but what would be a sensible diameter? 1 inch?
Best regards
N
nordanney23 May 2020 19:51Fuchur schrieb:
There is no groundwater (property on a hill) and at 1.5–2.0 meters (5–6.5 feet) you can expect bedrock. Any deep excavation can become very risky. We were lucky with the basement because that’s where the rising bedrock begins, and our basement floor sits directly on the rock.OK. Then only tap water remains. Use 1 inch.I just didn’t want you to regret it later when the water bill arrives.
How large is your water meter? That indicates the appropriate diameter for your water pipe.
A few things have already been mentioned. A rainwater cistern or borehole would be better options.
With 1000m2 (approximately 10,764 sq ft), that adds up to a significant amount. Hopefully, the area is laid out efficiently...
Just as an example: lawn watering requires (worst case scenario without natural rainfall) about 20 liters per m2 per week. For 1000m2 (10,764 sq ft), that means around 80m3 (2,825 cubic feet) per month.
Even with very conservative irrigation, you will need 10-20m3 (350-700 cubic feet) per month.
Do you have no option for a cistern or borehole?
Another advantage of having a large pump (with higher pressure and especially greater flow rate) is that you can design larger irrigation zones.
Our garden area is also estimated to be around 1000-1500m2 (10,764-16,146 sq ft).
I am planning for 20 zones, with 4 as reserves. The difference is that I can create zones with over 6,000 liters per hour (about 1,585 gallons per hour). The zones also include drip irrigation and tree watering.
A few things have already been mentioned. A rainwater cistern or borehole would be better options.
With 1000m2 (approximately 10,764 sq ft), that adds up to a significant amount. Hopefully, the area is laid out efficiently...
Just as an example: lawn watering requires (worst case scenario without natural rainfall) about 20 liters per m2 per week. For 1000m2 (10,764 sq ft), that means around 80m3 (2,825 cubic feet) per month.
Even with very conservative irrigation, you will need 10-20m3 (350-700 cubic feet) per month.
Do you have no option for a cistern or borehole?
Another advantage of having a large pump (with higher pressure and especially greater flow rate) is that you can design larger irrigation zones.
Our garden area is also estimated to be around 1000-1500m2 (10,764-16,146 sq ft).
I am planning for 20 zones, with 4 as reserves. The difference is that I can create zones with over 6,000 liters per hour (about 1,585 gallons per hour). The zones also include drip irrigation and tree watering.
Yes, I am aware of the quantities. That is also why a "small" cistern is not an option. Excavating a large cistern into the rock is certainly not a cheap undertaking. A well is also not feasible due to the elevation. With 100–200 m³ (3,530–7,060 ft³) per year, you won’t go broke and can draw clean(!) water for many years without technology, filters, or maintenance.
We don’t have anything yet; the water connection will be installed in the next few weeks. According to the utility company's offer, we will receive at the house connection a "PE pipe 32x3.0-H PN 16" and a "KFR valve and bracket Q3 4."
The plot is actually well shaped, a free L-shape. Although 1,000 m² (12,000 ft²) might have been an overestimate if you subtract outbuildings and other facilities in the final development.
We don’t have anything yet; the water connection will be installed in the next few weeks. According to the utility company's offer, we will receive at the house connection a "PE pipe 32x3.0-H PN 16" and a "KFR valve and bracket Q3 4."
The plot is actually well shaped, a free L-shape. Although 1,000 m² (12,000 ft²) might have been an overestimate if you subtract outbuildings and other facilities in the final development.
nordanney schrieb:
For example, wells, cisterns, etc.?
They’re not really important. The several cubic meters of water (so you should at least install a separate external water meter to save wastewater charges) will end up costing you a lot. It’s better to plan a few thousand euros for a well (with a reasonable groundwater level, maybe only about 800€ including the pump). Tap water for a plot like this only makes economic sense if there really is no other option.
Example: A simple Gardena Polo garden sprinkler (watering about 200 sqm (2,150 sq ft) of lawn) uses around 1.2 cubic meters of water per hour (at 4 bar pressure). If you have more than 1,000 sqm (10,760 sq ft), you need at least 5 of these—so at least 6 cubic meters per hour. How much does water cost where you live? 2.00€/cbm (probably a bit less plus meter rental)? Plus flower beds, maybe a pool...
You can roughly calculate what the tap water will cost with that.Sorry, but that calculation is complete nonsense.Talk to your supplier to get a water meter with a large diameter.
You need to optimize your system for flow. Otherwise, you will require many loops/valves.
Since a well and cistern are not an option, the only choice left is the water supply line.
Also, install a PVC pipe for the control cables through the wall. This will allow you to set up the controls indoors later.
You need to optimize your system for flow. Otherwise, you will require many loops/valves.
Since a well and cistern are not an option, the only choice left is the water supply line.
Also, install a PVC pipe for the control cables through the wall. This will allow you to set up the controls indoors later.
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