ᐅ Requesting Opinions on Floor Plans for a “House on a Slope”
Created on: 10 Aug 2013 14:18
S
Shadowblues
Hello,
we have now spoken with many builders and also with two architects. An ideal floor plan with the available budget has not emerged, at best a compromise between cost and use. But please have a look for yourselves. I would appreciate any constructive tips.
The building will be solid construction through an architect with individual contracting.
General conditions:
Requirements for the floor plan:
Sloped site – so the basement is underground on the entrance side, and above ground on the opposite side.
Keep it simple, without much fuss.
Ridge and eaves height fixed as a maximum limit, as well as a gable roof; either we go for a high kneewall or dormers. We have decided on a high kneewall, otherwise it would not be approved according to the development plan.
Financially no more than 375,000 USD (approximate equivalence), which according to my architect corresponds to about 950 cubic meters (33,560 cubic feet) of enclosed space.
Upper floor as a separate living unit, initially for the children, later rentable.
Ground floor with open kitchen, dining and living area, bedroom (bed size 190cm x 230cm (75 in x 90 in)) and bathroom. Ideally a small storage room for vacuum cleaner etc.
Basement for technical equipment, separate entrance for one office, anteroom and WC, second office as well as a potential guest or hobby room accessible from the house side.
Fireplace possible in the living room.
Carport on the ground floor with basement underneath, open to the garden, uninsulated is sufficient.
When the children move out, a door will be installed on the ground floor between the stairway to the other apartment and the stairway down to the offices. This separation of staircases is very important to us. Accordingly, the stairs will be concrete.
Roger





P.S.: Please ignore any graphic errors in the program..




we have now spoken with many builders and also with two architects. An ideal floor plan with the available budget has not emerged, at best a compromise between cost and use. But please have a look for yourselves. I would appreciate any constructive tips.
The building will be solid construction through an architect with individual contracting.
General conditions:
Requirements for the floor plan:
Sloped site – so the basement is underground on the entrance side, and above ground on the opposite side.
Keep it simple, without much fuss.
Ridge and eaves height fixed as a maximum limit, as well as a gable roof; either we go for a high kneewall or dormers. We have decided on a high kneewall, otherwise it would not be approved according to the development plan.
Financially no more than 375,000 USD (approximate equivalence), which according to my architect corresponds to about 950 cubic meters (33,560 cubic feet) of enclosed space.
Upper floor as a separate living unit, initially for the children, later rentable.
Ground floor with open kitchen, dining and living area, bedroom (bed size 190cm x 230cm (75 in x 90 in)) and bathroom. Ideally a small storage room for vacuum cleaner etc.
Basement for technical equipment, separate entrance for one office, anteroom and WC, second office as well as a potential guest or hobby room accessible from the house side.
Fireplace possible in the living room.
Carport on the ground floor with basement underneath, open to the garden, uninsulated is sufficient.
When the children move out, a door will be installed on the ground floor between the stairway to the other apartment and the stairway down to the offices. This separation of staircases is very important to us. Accordingly, the stairs will be concrete.
Roger
P.S.: Please ignore any graphic errors in the program..
Shadowblues schrieb:
Hello,
yes, it is too small, but if I want to rent it out in 15 years, it has to work. And by the way: where else would I put a bedroom? There’s no space upstairs either. Maybe I’m just somewhat undemanding because I currently live in a terraced mid-terrace house. There isn’t much space there either; right now I’m sitting in a 9m² (97 sq ft) room without a window when I work... *sigh* Okay, that’s really annoying. Our daily life takes place in the offices and the children’s rooms, so it’s important to me that those get bigger than they are now. The living room, etc., is fine as it is. And if the kids then have room for model trains or drums in a hobby room, that would be perfect.
There won’t be any side windows upstairs because the knee wall will be about 1.40m (4 ft 7 in) high—otherwise I’d be breaking building regulations. It’s already difficult enough as it is to meet the limits.
It didn’t leave me in peace, so I took another look at the new plan and added the upper and lower floors. I actually like it a lot as it is now, let’s see what my architect says when he has time for me.
It will probably be a bit too expensive, so I’m thinking about saving a bit on the heating system... so maybe just a standard cheap gas boiler plus solar instead of pellets—but I need some numbers on the table first.
Roger




P.S.: Criticism welcome Now on the PC and not on the annoying smartphone— I would swap guest and technical rooms downstairs and have water supply and drainage connections installed either in the guest room or in the entrance area in advance. That way, two children could actually live downstairs if needed. Apart from that, I find the floor plan very good and well thought-out for your needs.
General question about the upper floor: Do you really want to rent it out in 15 years when the kids have left home and have tenants roaming around your head? I wouldn’t build a single-family house with the intention to have tenants inside later, and I also think you won’t want to do that in 15 years unless financial constraints force you to. But that’s probably off-topic since I assume you’ve already thought it through.
S
Shadowblues12 Aug 2013 08:16Hello,
the staircase is dimensioned according to a website stating:
Minimum dimensions according to DIN 18065: Nominal A = 86 cm (34 inches) Nominal B + C = 400 cm (157 inches) Nominal D = 86 cm (34 inches) Tread width ≥ 23 cm (9 inches) Riser height ≤ 20 cm (8 inches)
Recommended dimensions by xyz: Nominal A = 94 cm (37 inches) Nominal B + C = 490 cm (193 inches) Nominal D = 94 cm (37 inches) Tread width ≥ 26 cm (10 inches) Riser height ≤ 19 cm (7.5 inches)
Hope that works. I’m a bit taller than recommended.
Regarding the basement rooms: If I switch them, then the "technical room" is far from the "potential pellet storage" (rear part of the bike deck), so it’s arranged this way...
Two more kids? Are you crazy? No way... enough of that!
For renting out: That’s exactly why we’re not building a wooden house. I think soundproofing works quite well with a solid house. In fact, the house will be too big when the kids move out, and I don’t want to rent out the lower level. Better the upper one. That’s also why the balconies are separated; I once had a bad experience with someone always looking down onto my balcony. And if I have enough money, I don’t even need to rent it out. But who knows what I’ll get for a pension? Potentially always “too little.”
Roger
the staircase is dimensioned according to a website stating:
Minimum dimensions according to DIN 18065: Nominal A = 86 cm (34 inches) Nominal B + C = 400 cm (157 inches) Nominal D = 86 cm (34 inches) Tread width ≥ 23 cm (9 inches) Riser height ≤ 20 cm (8 inches)
Recommended dimensions by xyz: Nominal A = 94 cm (37 inches) Nominal B + C = 490 cm (193 inches) Nominal D = 94 cm (37 inches) Tread width ≥ 26 cm (10 inches) Riser height ≤ 19 cm (7.5 inches)
Hope that works. I’m a bit taller than recommended.
Regarding the basement rooms: If I switch them, then the "technical room" is far from the "potential pellet storage" (rear part of the bike deck), so it’s arranged this way...
Two more kids? Are you crazy? No way... enough of that!
For renting out: That’s exactly why we’re not building a wooden house. I think soundproofing works quite well with a solid house. In fact, the house will be too big when the kids move out, and I don’t want to rent out the lower level. Better the upper one. That’s also why the balconies are separated; I once had a bad experience with someone always looking down onto my balcony. And if I have enough money, I don’t even need to rent it out. But who knows what I’ll get for a pension? Potentially always “too little.”
Roger
S
Shadowblues12 Aug 2013 08:22According to the tool you mentioned, this is not a main staircase... but I think I can fit it in, thanks.
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