ᐅ Old Building with New Windows: How to Install Additional Ventilation?
Created on: 15 Jun 2017 17:45
A
Altbau1930
Hello,
On Tuesday, our energy consultant visited our house to inspect it. He is supposed to plan the roof insulation and provide specifications for the new windows.
The good news first: The consultant is a trained carpenter, and after inspecting the rafters, he said the roof structure is completely fine except for a small beam. This is contrary to the opinion of the expert surveyor, who believed the woodworm had caused significant damage. The energy consultant did not confirm this; only one beam had been affected by woodworm at some point, but no wood debris has been found on the floor in recent years. In short: the roof will be re-covered and insulated, but the (expensive) roof structure can be preserved.
On Monday, the energy consultant will come with a roofer to plan the roof, which should ultimately meet KfW standards and be eligible for funding.
The same applies to the windows; we already have an estimate, but it’s for double glazing. The consultant recommends triple glazing, which will not be significantly more expensive.
However, since we do not want to insulate the walls, the consultant said mold will definitely develop after installing new windows. This must be avoided.
There are two options:
- Install ventilation in each room through the external wall. This means core drilling and installing vents (the less desirable option, probably expensive and complicated).
- Install windows with integrated ventilation (which sounds interesting).
How have you solved the problem of mold formation after new windows, and what type of ventilation do you have?
I would be grateful for any advice!
On Tuesday, our energy consultant visited our house to inspect it. He is supposed to plan the roof insulation and provide specifications for the new windows.
The good news first: The consultant is a trained carpenter, and after inspecting the rafters, he said the roof structure is completely fine except for a small beam. This is contrary to the opinion of the expert surveyor, who believed the woodworm had caused significant damage. The energy consultant did not confirm this; only one beam had been affected by woodworm at some point, but no wood debris has been found on the floor in recent years. In short: the roof will be re-covered and insulated, but the (expensive) roof structure can be preserved.
On Monday, the energy consultant will come with a roofer to plan the roof, which should ultimately meet KfW standards and be eligible for funding.
The same applies to the windows; we already have an estimate, but it’s for double glazing. The consultant recommends triple glazing, which will not be significantly more expensive.
However, since we do not want to insulate the walls, the consultant said mold will definitely develop after installing new windows. This must be avoided.
There are two options:
- Install ventilation in each room through the external wall. This means core drilling and installing vents (the less desirable option, probably expensive and complicated).
- Install windows with integrated ventilation (which sounds interesting).
How have you solved the problem of mold formation after new windows, and what type of ventilation do you have?
I would be grateful for any advice!
A
Altbau193019 Jul 2017 18:18Hi,
The decision will be made on Friday after the energy consultant has inspected the window recesses in the house.
We will use uPVC windows with triple glazing from Oliplast.
For the roof, we will choose either aluminum or metal sheets with a slate appearance and color, since this material weighs only about one-tenth of a slate roof, which benefits the old roof structure (the roof structure itself is fine). Additionally, this material including insulation is quite affordable.
The energy consultant recommended in advance to at least install a drilled vent with a duct and a small fan through the exterior wall in the bathroom and bedroom (rooms with high humidity levels), so these rooms can actively ventilate and thereby prevent mold.
Modern windows are so airtight that in older buildings they often promote mold growth if no countermeasures are taken.
The decision will be made on Friday after the energy consultant has inspected the window recesses in the house.
We will use uPVC windows with triple glazing from Oliplast.
For the roof, we will choose either aluminum or metal sheets with a slate appearance and color, since this material weighs only about one-tenth of a slate roof, which benefits the old roof structure (the roof structure itself is fine). Additionally, this material including insulation is quite affordable.
The energy consultant recommended in advance to at least install a drilled vent with a duct and a small fan through the exterior wall in the bathroom and bedroom (rooms with high humidity levels), so these rooms can actively ventilate and thereby prevent mold.
Modern windows are so airtight that in older buildings they often promote mold growth if no countermeasures are taken.
...What speaks against airing out several times a day by opening the windows briefly?
In the bathroom, I can imagine using a timer-controlled fan, but buying airtight windows and then installing a leak is more than questionable.
Window frame ventilation like RegelAir is a poor compromise, even with a ventilation system.
If a ventilation system is planned, it should include heat recovery.
In the bathroom, I can imagine using a timer-controlled fan, but buying airtight windows and then installing a leak is more than questionable.
Window frame ventilation like RegelAir is a poor compromise, even with a ventilation system.
If a ventilation system is planned, it should include heat recovery.
A
Altbau193019 Nov 2017 09:40Current status:
An exhaust vent to the outside will be installed in the wet area (bathroom). Window rebate ventilation will also be added in several rooms. The windows are now ordered and planned, with installation scheduled for around February.
I will contact the energy consultant tomorrow to clarify the details. Inside, on the reveals of the windows, rails will be installed in the corners to allow condensation to drain(?). Additionally, a thin layer of insulation will need to be placed under the new interior window sills (which will likely be made of wood).
An exhaust vent to the outside will be installed in the wet area (bathroom). Window rebate ventilation will also be added in several rooms. The windows are now ordered and planned, with installation scheduled for around February.
I will contact the energy consultant tomorrow to clarify the details. Inside, on the reveals of the windows, rails will be installed in the corners to allow condensation to drain(?). Additionally, a thin layer of insulation will need to be placed under the new interior window sills (which will likely be made of wood).
A
Altbau193019 Nov 2017 16:04Yes, but I need to see which exhaust system will be used. It should be easy to dismantle and quick to clean. Mold might develop there.
Ideally, I would prefer an exhaust going upward through the roof (using PVC pipes), if that is technically feasible. The roof will be replaced anyway, so the connection could be made there, saving me from having to core drill through the wall. Let’s see what the energy consultant suggests.
Ideally, I would prefer an exhaust going upward through the roof (using PVC pipes), if that is technically feasible. The roof will be replaced anyway, so the connection could be made there, saving me from having to core drill through the wall. Let’s see what the energy consultant suggests.
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